Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 Another on the tick list is the finger sized gaps between the door aperture and drop glass, quarter light and probably door. As I can see from previous posts this is not uncommon and does make for a noisy and occasionally wet drive. I don't think the seals as fitted are correct and am wondering if there are seal(s) that are available and work! Reminds me of when I was doing a job for Bentley Crewe and they gave us a pink Corniche, with cream hood, to ponce about in for a week. Driving back down the M6 I could see the road white lines as the door rear to B pillar gap was finger sized! A few tissues stuffed in the gap sorted the wind noise! I'd like something more engineered for the Vitesse..... Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 there should be a welded "brace" across the gap just rear of the NDV has this split open/parted ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 23 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: there should be a welded "brace" across the gap just rear of the NDV has this split open/parted ?? Pete, I'm having a blonde moment NDV? The chassis and body were fully restored 10 years ago and everything looks good. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 One 13/60 I had, the brace was rewelded end to end not overlapping, so the gap for the door glass was massive. Even with new seals there was no way they'd seal against anything. I had to split it again and all I could do was squeeze the skin in and pop rivet it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 The main problem is the seals everything else seems OK. What's a NDV? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 21 minutes ago, Iain T said: I'm having a blonde moment NDV? I'm struggling to think what the acronym is but I think he means the quarter-light. Ah, err... Non Draughty Vent? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 Nearside / driver's vindow? If the seals are poor round the entire door it's possible adjustment of the door itself would help, but the quarterlight can also be shimmed or adjusted to allow a better fit against the screen pillar; if you also shim the door glass channels at the bottom they can be aligned for a better fit against the roof seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 25 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: the seals are poor round the entire door it's possible adjustment of the door itself would help, but the quarterlight can also be shimmed or adjusted to allow a better fit against the screen pillar; if you also shim the door glass channels at the bottom they can be aligned for a better fit against the roof seal Ta, so if I take the door card off the quarter light can be shimmed to cant it inboard? At the moment it's laying out too much at the top. Can I also do the same with the drop glass frame? I've seen posts that have used a secondary seal attached to the A pillar but the ebay link is too old. The door skin lines up pretty well so I'm lothe to adjust the hinges. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 There is some useful information on the door Window and Quarter light fitting and adjustment in the attached Herald, Vitesse Body fitting notes which may help you? I know when I re-assembled my Door fittings and re-fitted to the car it was very time consuming getting everything to fit correctly and for the windows to wind up and down smoothly I had issue with the top of the Quarter light frame catching the top of the Windscreen surround ('A' Post) I had to put spacers under the rear body mountings to tilt the front bulkhead slightly to stop this Mine was a convertible though so I suppose years of having the Hood up and down may have caused this. Herald, Vitesse Body - Svc Trg Notes.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: there should be a welded "brace" across the gap just rear of the NDV has this split open/parted ?? Hi. Where is this visible from please?. Does this only affect only water going into, inside of door? I have fitted the internal curtains (I used building bags) which has cured the the rain that will always get into the door? from running down inside the door cards and then into car. Also I removed the carpets about 7 years ago, as loads of water getting in when in heavy rain, have been improving it since (a thin bit of sturdy cellophane between the door and seals to check gaps) and tapping out the seal flange to make seal closer to door and moving the seals forward from the flange a bit at that front door section). Last time in heavy rain, I just had a bit of water in rear O.S side footwell and just today I tapped out at flange at top of rear glass area, as was a small gap at top 3 inches. Will see how it goes?. They probably leaked from new? Maybe very difficult to make totally watertight?. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 56 minutes ago, Gary Flinn said: There is some useful information on the door Window and Quarter light fitting and adjustment in the attached Herald, Vitesse Body fitting notes which may help you? Thanks Gary I hope I don't have to play around with the body mounts! Nothing fouls there are just too big a gaps around the A post, roof/cant rail and drop glass rear. I don't know what the correct seals look like but I know the garage I bought the car from changed the sesls because the door was difficult to close. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 15 minutes ago, daverclasper said: Maybe very difficult to make totally watertight? Dave I've seen your previous topic, what seals and extra seal did you use? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 Are the seals sold by Rimmers, Paddock etc any good? Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 43 minutes ago, daverclasper said: Hi. Where is this visible from please? The quarterlight rests on top of it but you can see if there's too great a gap on either side of the quarterlight frame. Take the door trims off on the inside and look at where the bolts for the quarterlight and rear channel attach. If you undo the lower bolts and loosen those higher up you can tilt the quarterlight to a better position; play about with it and watch for stresses before you shim to the final position. Don't forget the small setscrew on the door front edge below the screen pillar, usually hidden under a grommet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 the is a "P" section rubber glued to the A post 620403 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: the is a "P" section rubber glued to the A post 620403 It's missing on my car! But then so were many things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 8 minutes ago, Iain T said: It's missing on my car! But then so were many things. We’re these standard ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 1 minute ago, Paul H said: We’re these standard ? Never seen on a Herald or Vitesse, May have been standard on GT6. It is possible to get a saloon water-tight….. convertible….. I really don’t think so Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted February 25, 2022 Report Share Posted February 25, 2022 Hi Iain. I did replace the bubble seals (incorrect, though sold by most suppliers) with ones from Bill Davies (Rare Bits For classics). I think he maybe still trades via EBay?, Baines I think may have simular profiles?. This was more to to with the doors closing more easily and not bieng out of line when closed, as tend to stick out more. From what I can gather, the P seal is correct and helps. Runs from top of screen piller to around the top hinge. Glued to screen piller and below on the A postand, sort of tucked under the front of main seal, if that makes sense?. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 Dave and Pete are correct, you should have a P section seal glued to the rear of the windscreen frame from the top of the quarterlight and down to where the door shell sticks forward above the hinge. The P section should butt up against the door aperture seal as an extra seal. I think on saloons it extended along the top of the quarterlight too, but not on convertibles. If someone can't post a pic I'll try and take a pic of mine. Gav 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 Also I read (old Courier article I think?) of gluing a length of extra seal on the front section of door where the shape sort of twists. Also where water can run down the small channel/groove of the seal area inside the car then run along the bottom of seal, until it over flow in the car (I did have what looked like this issue?). Member suggested to drill small drain holes along the bottom groove. I haven't used these methods, as it's a lot better since I tweaked the flange/seals as above. I did a bit more tweaking yesterday and see how it goes, next time in heavy rain? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 just looked in my 3rd edition parts list just shows one seal for saloon and 2 alternatives for CV does not list the P seal my 64 Vit6 had a P seal , no idea if that was original or a tech note upgrade toa problem I dont have copies of triumph/BL tech notes Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 Bearing in mind how many water leaks early Heralds had, my understanding is that several mods were introduced to help seal water leaks. I wonder if these weren't added to the parts manual. My Vit convertible has P seals and I'm the second owner. It was very original when I bought it. My previous 13/60 saloon also had them. Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 26, 2022 Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 15 hours ago, daverclasper said: Hi Iain. I did replace the bubble seals (incorrect, though sold by most suppliers) with ones from Bill Davies (Rare Bits For classics). I think he maybe still trades via EBay? Available from a few suppliers, although I bought metres of it from Bill a few years back when he had a stand at Stoneleigh. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/leaf-rubber-door-aperture-seal-per-metre https://www.eastkenttrimsupplies.com/triumph-dolomite-door-seal-c2x18618225 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted February 26, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2022 13 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: Available from a few suppliers, although I bought metres of it from Bill a few years back when he had a stand at Stoneleigh. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/leaf-rubber-door-aperture-seal-per-metre So the CBS leaf seal is correct and the bubble incorrect? It matters not to me I just want one that works. I think I have the bubble one fitted. First line of attack is to adjust the frame then go from there. The P seal on the A pillar seems a reasonable addition to stop water ingress and wind noise. If I get into trouble (probably) I'll be back! Thank you for everyone's help. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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