Vitesse rattly gearlever

[andycouchman_5147]

Recently re-did the remote gearlinkage on my Mk 2's 'box. Now, there's a very annoying rattle from the lever. The movement itself seems fine - no slack and gears select OK.

Took it all apart again to check and everything appears to be in order.

Have I done something daft to cause this? Or anyone have any tips to fix it?

The kit I used is from Canley Classics and looks to be of good quality.

Help!

Thanks.

[Pete Lewis]

the recent kits have a metal  cup washer with a ragged sharp cropped edge this minces up anything it comes into contact with  

the canley kits are supposed to be better that many  but thats where i would look 

did you change the middle swivel bushes ie under the remote casting btween lever and the box ???

Pete

 

[Gary Flinn]

Have you tightened up the bolt that holds the gear lever to the linkage?

It's also important you get the Bolt the right way around, or you can struggle to get reverse gear (the bolt/nut catches the remote extension)

Some of the recent re-bush kits are not very good quality at all

Gary  

[andycouchman_5147]

Thanks both - yes changed the middle swivel bushes and the gearlever bolt is tight. I suspect the issue may be around the big plastic ball thingy as you suggest Pete, so will look out for sharp edges too.

And yes, two different workshop manuals show that bolt different ways round Gary!

Whatever, think I shall need to take up the darned transmission cover carpet again and remove the cover (can also add some more sound proofing while doing that. I do hate doing that!

Thanks again!

Andy

[Badwolf]

Andy - Welcome to my world.

[PeteH]

On the "subject" of covers? Anyone ever considered or even actually replaced, the daft slot/screw system of fasteners, with DZUS fasteners?.

Pete

[68vitesse]

I have use chimney nuts with flanged bolts on which I have ground a lead in taper. The flange lets you put pressure on the bolt and the taper helps start the bolt in the nut.

Regards

Paul.

[Pete Lewis]

22 hours ago, andycouchman_5147 said:

show that bolt different ways round

there is only one way  the head of the bolt MUST be away from the reverse bolt so the head is on the right the O/S  if the bolt shank is wrong way 

it will foul the casting and 3rd /4th  will have a bent H patern  |-) as the stick will move in a curved path not  |-|

as for tunnel fixing i just used 8mm af headed acme selt tappers and 18mm foam stips cut from a block of dunelm foam 

that fills all the irregular gaps and its daft cheap just a squirt of adhesive to hold in place and the screws pull it down to seal 

some use a long bolt with a nut to form a stud on the bulkhead  and spin a wing nut onto hold 

 

Pete

[Wagger]

I replaced mine with cross head self tappers. Using a magnetic bit has been a boon. A more tedious solution is to use studs and washers in the holes and slide the cover over them. Takes a while to fit the studs or bolts from the reverse side, but easier ever after.

[Colin Lindsay]

49 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

18mm foam stips cut from a block of dunelm foam 

Is that stuff waterproof? I have a tunnel to seal in the next few days and the rubber strip supplied by traders has proved less than serviceable.

[Pete Lewis]

well its not sealed foam and i have only used it on a saloon so only needed noise /gas tight as a solution 

i guess its water proof when fully compressed ..same as anything is  

the ribbed stuff sold as silly proces is just not fit for anything 

is this to stop water coming in or going  out ???

are you into deep wading ???

Pete

[PeteH]

"Captain Slow`s" Amphibian?

Pete

[Badwolf]

22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

well its not sealed foam and i have only used it on a saloon so only needed noise /gas tight as a solution i guess its water proof when fully compressed ..same as anything is the ribbed stuff sold as silly proces is just not fit for anything is this to stop water coming in or going  out ???    are you into deep wading ???

Pete

I have used both 'E' profile and 'P' profile draft excluder tape in the past. both worked to a certain extent but where the cardboard had warped (which was never where the clip thingies were) it wasn't thick enough to fill the gap. Explains why there was so much 'yukky sealer' in various places.  I am working on that with my refurb of the cover. Further details in due course.

[Colin Lindsay]

22 hours ago, Badwolf said:

I have used both 'E' profile and 'P' profile draft excluder tape in the past

Tried it yesterday, threw it away in minutes. A whole £3.99 wasted.....  It kept peeling off and folding up so that it stuck to itself.

The seal I used on the tunnel is too thick and won't fit up behind the heater outlet under the dash, there's a very small gap here between the bulkhead metal and the tunnel, so was experimenting with thinner alternatives.

 

[Pete Lewis]

one good reason why really squashy upholsterer foam works so well   fills big gaps and squashes down to next to nothing depending on 

the wibbly wobbly body 

• cheap  and works     one   1"   slab will make yards of the stuff   hey use memory foam and it will remember  how its going to fit 

[Paul H]

56 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Tried it yesterday, threw it away in minutes. A whole £3.99 wasted.....  It kept peeling off and folding up so that it stuck to itself.

The seal I used on the tunnel is too thick and won't fit up behind the heater outlet under the dash, there's a very small gap here between the bulkhead metal and the tunnel, so was experimenting with thinner alternatives.

 

If you use draft excluder , peel off the self adhesive tape ( bit of a faf to get it off ) then seal with good contact glue like Bostik 

Paul

[Badwolf]

As you might imagine I used one of the variety of adhesives that I have knocking about. Can't remember which one except that, as you might have read, I had the chip it off before starting the fibreglassing job. Will update on the restoration thread in due course. Following on from PaulH..peel a bit, stick a bit. On no account peel off all the tape..yes, that is a recipe for disaster

Pete - Love the memory foam thoughts. Might just remember how to get the cover off in years to come

[Paul H]

35 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

As you might imagine I used one of the variety of adhesives that I have knocking about. Can't remember which one except that, as you might have read, I had the chip it off before starting the fibreglassing job. Will update on the restoration thread in due course. Following on from PaulH..peel a bit, stick a bit. On no account peel off all the tape..yes, that is a recipe for disaster

Pete - Love the memory foam thoughts. Might just remember how to get the cover off in years to come

Hi Badwolf if we are talking about the same draught excluder have to disagree as the adhesive tape is useless . I remove the tape and use contact glue . Works for me 

Paul 

[Badwolf]

Paul - Yes, that is the rubbery stuff. Long time ago since I last did it. Obviously had to augment the sticky on the tape with the glue that ended up like concrete, probably contact glue too. The adhesive quality might vary depending on brand, don't know. One problem that I found in the past was stretching the rubber when fitting. It then shrinks, ripping itself away from the glue. Suppose it's the same when sticking any stretchy stuff. Hence the comment about peel a bit, stick a bit. Just as an aside..... I have noticed similar problems a over stretching with some double glazed window glasses, where the fitter had pulled the seal too tight before fitting the glass, the seal has shrunk over time as is now too short.

[DVD3500]

The surfaces have to pristine and cleaned with alcohol. I used them all over our house and most have stuck fine...