Jeffds1360 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I see now that your idle screw us on the front of the carb. Mine is on the rear! Just have run and if it races, check all the carb capable positions and spindle location. Pop filter off and check postings down. What oil have you in the damper dash pot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I'm fed up with predictive text and gammy fingers! That should read cable, not capable, piston not postings! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 52 minutes ago, Jeffds1360 said: I'm fed up with predictive text and gammy fingers! That should read cable, not capable, piston not postings! See my post elsewhere about cheap keyboards... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 1 hour ago, Jeffds1360 said: I'm fed up with predictive text yes silly tech we dont need i can mis spell without it helping but click the 3 dots and select edit and you can correct it anytime Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 Fed up with editing Pete. If I catch the next post I'll just explain and therefore double my post count :).. there needs to be more competition!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 now there's a good plan keep smiling Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 Took for a drive last night, revs continue to be higher than normal, at idle of course it is fine because i adjusted the idle screw but this doesn't fix the problem for whilst driving. As for dampener oil i couldn't tell you as it's been in there since before i had the car. So we're still at square one really, but atleast i dont have to sit in the car vibrating and humming loudly at idle lol. I'm still putting my money on air leak, higher revs, stuttering too when idle...needle jumps about a bit and car jitters and jolts. Think best bet is to get hold of a smoke tester machine and have a look? My car fits the bill for all the symptoms described here: https://www.sundevilauto.com/reasons-your-car-is-vibrating-when-idle/ so it could be any number of these, most are ruled out due to the car not being modern, which pretty much leaves me with vacuum leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 if you have air leak it doesnt come and go and the engine has no pre clues that you are on idle or driving that defect will be there all the time not as and when do you have some slack /free travel in the throttle cable as these when hot expand and if taut will open the throttle as the heat in the engine bay builds up you can suck the oil out the dashpot with a straw , dont get a mouthfull and refill with known engine oil has the timing or mixture ever been checked ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 39 minutes ago, Quack said: symptoms described here stick to the basics of a 50 yr old carburettor engine thats a load of myth tosh aimed at your wallet spark plugs are the life and soul but you would be lucky to get 30k from the std plugs which have a replacement life of 10k and with infrequent and too much choke can fail very early pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 The rev changes don't come and go either, it's always sitting above normal since the problem began, idle or running or whenever. There is a bit of slack on throttle but not really any on choke, will give it some slack today. Spark plugs i replaced yesterday with no improvements, the old ones weren't too bad but did have a lot of oil on them which could indicate a leak inside? unrelated anyway. I changed the timing a few times, just set it with timing light the other day back to standard setting. I did advance it a bit before as i'd heard it was good for fuel economy but felt a bit janky so i put it back. Mixture never been checked, has always ran fine until recently. Will replace the oil today and add some slack to choke 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 choke wont be affected much by heat on its cable as there is a built in lost movement to aid ease of pulling the control just to get our heads round just whats going on she idles ok but when you drive , pull up at the T lights and its reading faster than normal or is it just faster all the time and wont respond to the adjusting screw when youre out and its got faster idles is there a gap between the idle screw and the casting and does it sound fast or is it your add on rev counter telling fibs ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 Nonono okay i'll start from the beginning - the revs are ALWAYS above, whether it's idle, driving, stationary, they always sit above what they normally are. E.g. my idle is now 1500 when it should be 1000, and when im driving at 30mph in 3rd gear it would be 2000, however its now 2500. - The only reason the IDLE is OK now is because i changed the idle screw, however this doesn't actually change anything at all when driving, this is just for the time being to add a bit of a 'half fix' whilst i locate the problem, so ignore this part of it, pretend i never changed the idle screw. The idle is still at 1500, but i just moved the idle screw for the time being, making it 1000. I'm putting it back to normal once i fix the problem. - There is never a gap between the idle screw and casting, it always sits as it should. - It is definitely audibly faster yes, i know this because when i screw the idle screw out, it sounds normal again and the rpms drop down to 1000 (how it's meant to sound and be). So the tacho isn't faulty, and it is reading the actual revs. Summary: - The engine is a bit jittery, appearing to 'rev itself' almost. -The revs are higher than normal (500 above whatever they would normally be). -The engine takes longer to start at key-turn than normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I'll post a video of me starting it up as well in an hour or so, so you can see the full process behind what happens on first start of the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 1 hour ago, Quack said: and when im driving at 30mph in 3rd gear it would be 2000, however its now 2500. THAT CANNOT HAVE CHANGED It's determined by the gearing and has nothing to do with engine tune or air leaks or idle speed or any of that. So unless somebody has snuck in and replaced your gearbox while you weren't looking, the engine speed at 30mph in 3rd CANNOT HAVE CHANGED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 1 hour ago, Quack said: when im driving at 30mph in 3rd gear it would be 2000, however its now 2500. thats a bit of a conundrumm ulless you have a Daff 66 drive line you cannot change the final drive raios they are definitley fixed the only way the revs per mph can change is if the clutch is slipping or the rev counter is mis reading somewhere here we are all on the wrong track Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 NM & PL said what my immediate thoughts were. To me I would suspect the rev counter is over reading, no other way you are suddenly at 2500 rather than 2000. Frustrating for you for sure but we ( the wise ones at any rate) will crack it in time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 If the clutch was slipping you would notice it when pulling off from stationary. Where in the pedal stroke is the clutch biting? A bit brutal but drive along and gently apply the brake and accelerator at the same time. If the revs rise when decelerating then the clutch is slipping. Another edit, shouldn't your idle be around 6-700rpm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 9 minutes ago, Iain T said: shouldn't your idle be around 6-700rpm? yes agree on that figure Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 A higher idle can mask an incorrect mixture. I've found I needed to richen the mixture with lower correct idle rpm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 yes Iain if the idle is high you are starting to run and set the mixture on the start of the needle taper not the idle part of the needle and Quack Does the 13/60 happen to have an Overdrive ????? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I dont know what's going on then, maybe it's coincidence that my idle increased at the same time as my rev counter breaking, but i am 100% certain that it is actually idling at 1500, i can hear the difference in the engine. When i adjust the screw to get the idle back to 1000rpm, it sounds how it used to sound, which leads me to believe the rev counter is functioning properly. The rev counter reads higher than it did before at every 10mph increment. I don't know what else to say, this is just what's happening. I understand what you're saying, that its not possible, which is why im baffled. I think i'd be a fool to think that nothing is wrong with the engine, and that my idle screw has randomly slipped or something. @Iain T my idle used to be 1000rpm when i first got it, its never been lower than that, so that was an issue from the start then, i thought 1000rpm was normal. Below are two videos showing what happens when i try to start the car, and 10 minutes later when its warmed up. The temp gauge goes up far quicker than it used to, and the revs slowly make their way up. its at 1000rpm because i changed the idle screw, normally it would be 1500. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 @Pete Lewis Nope just standard 4 gear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 cant fully open those but the common denominator here is the revs and temperature climb as you drive which has all the clues this is voltage problems the idle should be 600/700 and the idle setting has no effect when your driving you could have a air leak like the fourth bridge you cant change the drive line ratios there is some serious misconcieved ideas coming across i dont understand Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quack Posted April 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 I'll try put the videos on vimeo and link them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 29, 2022 Report Share Posted April 29, 2022 if the revs do increase then the road speed has to increase in line with that. you dont have an elastic driveline why is it always at 1000 thats too fast do you have a brake servo ?? does she breath direct into the air cleaner or do you have a smiths valve fitted ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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