Pete Lewis

Thanks clive thats good to know sounds a solution pete

Pop it in the it will be useful one day cupboard full of things you never need but keep just in case

The hinge to door is adjustable for in/ out flush fitting, there are also fibre packing between the hinge and the A post Each hinge has two bolts and a set screw fixing them to the door and three bolts fixing to the A post Do not overtightennthem as the caged plate is quite thin. the idea of the setscrew is you nip this and you can push the door around when its how you like it(or not) then lock the setting with the bolts.

There are cheaper around but ive used them with classics for 14 yrs . pete

I use pit lane in the old skf site off park avenue in sundon park well its just over the road to me , you can give me a knock and we can eye up your door fit you dont have to be in a triumph to join us , horse bike even an mg were very flexible pete

Interesting mistake, we have a post for blonde moments we all have tee shirts for other Oops!!

Gee whizz thats a fit or not, have you adjusted the hinge to door or the packing hinge to bulkhead? first idea is the rear tub need more packers under the reward body mounts, thats the two on the diff crossmember and the chassis extension arms that will help the tapered gap as for the proud waist , have you over pulled the tub for a spread solution,? its unusual for the door to be proud at the waist to that extent Have the doors had a re skin?? whats the fit like to the a post and bonnet wing tails.¿ Pete

You can fit this with tank installed it can be a bit tight to get the flip through the hole a llose tank may help depends if filler tube is central in thebhole in the wing but some poke and prod will get it located use some soft soap to aid the fitting pete

Andrew our next meeting is at the Raven PH Hexton 27th February 8pm youre more than welcome to drop in and join us theres a free buffet on aswell Theres a Map and clues in the area directory on the home page pete

Had a feeling there are some tooling dimples in the carcass for the position or is that one of them dreams pete

Do you know just what was wrong ?

You may no get the hsg right off , due to things like prop tunnel getting in the way depends how high you can lift the gearbox without rad hose stretch etc. certainly enough to clean dry and add some decent sealer pete

yes the OD oil level is all integrated with the gearbox so only one level filler ...the one for the gearbox the overdrive is engaged by oil pumped at pressure so any low oil level in the gearbox will adversely affect the overdrive operation once the level is below the pump pick up . and the inhibitor switch can get full of green corrosion ,thye can with care be stripped cleaned and re crimped together most are a lucas SA141 type which is a simple bell push design . Pete

its possible to remove the tail housing with gearbox in the car need to drain oil remove prop and coupling , undo the cotton reel mounts , jack the box up a little remove speedo cable and undo the housing , remove clean reseal and refit. i have no experience of oil leak sealer additives Pete

if you get the chance pick p a copy of the Commer Story by Geof Carverhill he is doing a proper book on Rootes Group and it wont be a load of press cuttings ans specifications ita all about the People I was brought up a Rootes boy with many of the family doing over 50 years service think we totalled around 280 or family service you cant do that these days , not saying its right but the same happened at Standard Triumph as did many of our lost industries that make the UK heres a pic of my Mum at Standard around 1937 and has to be one of a TS3 mum at standard motor co 1937.pdf

put a loop in it to help flex when the plates move as the vac unit pulls it back and forth Ive got loads of it will be useful one day .......when i have a clear out you always need that one thing the following week .....they do it on purpose Pete

is it the switch or the lock that sticks if the lock is a bit lazy disengaging it may have moved a little and not quite aligned with the hole n the outer tube Pete

the energising solenoid is mounted low down on the N/s of the unit ,, on the O/S is a protruding shaft witha setting lever attached, there is a 3/16" hole in the lever which when engaged should align with a hole in the oute case. you may just see this from under if not its tunnel off. first check does it move when the switch is operated if it moves but wont align remove the cover in front of the solenoid and adjust the lever throw pushrod. ( there are some dimensional settings for the pushrod and solenoid piston end float and its end stop settings ) if it doesnt move expect a electrical problem in the feed or a duff solenoid as with Dtypes there is a switch in the end of the A type solenoid which cuts a pull in coil current of15 amps down to a holding current of 1 amp some of these switches can be access cleaned etc some are fully sealed and you cant do much with them. thats a start Pete

I rescued a optical tracking gear from our dunstable closed down truck developement workshops when searching for TS3 Tooling, the units in a nice now departed wooden box had a brass tag ' Humber experimental dept.' in fact i have passed the unilux kit on the Kevin our forum admin , i wonder if he has ever used it ??? and the redundant drawing boards rescued from our closed Luton factory are tagged as Humber engineering 151 and 161 all from the days we were part of Rootes Group many years ago

The main culprit is the small seal that closes the reservoir port if its not seating for what ever reason you just push fluid in /out the resevervoir not the pipe port its s simple cylinder if you copied how it all ifs theres not much to go wrong other than the fit of the seals, amd the pedal does return to give some free float on the push rod etc. and the piston returns to its circlip stop.

there is some connection between the plates with the pivot and sprung links underneath but the wire needs to belt and braces the base plate of any lecy unit generally needs a earth return ,via the base plate if you re make a diy version nip to Maplins or similar and get some silicon sleeved it is nice and floppy and stands the heat as Ben say thats been fixed and the wire has gone rigid i have no real experience of the accuspark , have used aldon and lumenition with great success. i did get involved witha local car ( it will be on the CT stand at stoneleigh) and this had accuspark, and with a strobe the spark was all over the place with jumping sweep of around 15 degrees as it idles ,, there is no slop in the dizzy its in good nick , swapped to try on number 6 and again very different result 6 was stable 1 was hopeless . there were reports in a magazine way back that on some cheap units the trigger magnets were irregular positions cant back that up, some work fine , like Richards , others well ... try one a see how you get on would like to have refitted the points to see what changes but run out of time Pete

this is the old utopia or compromise again a lot depends on you need good levels of Zds in pushrod engines of our time throw in how many miles per year will i do, how often will i change the oil good old triumph WSM gives no frequency or oil specification clues as usual, you need a service handbook this suggests oil change every 6k with a new filter at every 12k there are many now defunct 20/50 oil names but absolutely no addative specs given most of us probably do it annually some never do it ! then are you racing drive it like you stole it or a quite poodler all goes into the mix of .......what oil ive used wilko and G force budget oils and fine until they get chased then the pressure drops off , where as a high grade with all the bells and whistles around the £20- £30 holds up how ever you drive it. theres a preference here and its down to that you get what you pay for, just depends what 'That' is . Pete

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOOLUSA-SPARK-PLUG-GAUGE/dp/B00VUGMDBC/ref=pd_day0_200_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1FNGPZZGDQVMK9Z64EKW#productDetails Something like this is the idea but cant see the feeler sizes these probably too thick need to search or keep a look out at boot tool sales they seem to be hard to find these days , plenty for spark plug gaps but not found any 0.010" 0.254mm why not make one from a fettled paper clip ??? pete

its all fibs were all just happy and broke !!

bit too far away for herts and beds meetings we have a good few SOC who prefer our meetings and outings in our area Pete