Pete Lewis

Daves on a good point and with no needle fitted ......... some diaphragms are like a thick rubber not a film fimsy as they should be They should be very flexible and thin , the thick versions buckle up and resist a smooth drop With no needle fitted there is nothing to make contact , if the piston slides in the top cover then It should when screwed down, try it with the diaphragm removed there is a definite recess in the piston and casing to locate the lugs on the outer rim and the inner hole pete

I use 3/16"unf on any repair these are hex headed set screws , they dont suffer slot damage from years of over tightening , may be wrong (hopefully) but i was told they had closed down ring them before you make a visit if Im out that way I will have a visit as Ive used them from many years there is a array of float chamber designs with small changes to perimiter contours , hence wide ragne of gaskets in mny kits to cover all.. the wrong gasket can leave corners open to leaking. Pete

in the Triumph WSM it states vertical link plates to rear hub inner 7/16"unf 42 -46lbft Pete

you shouldnt get too much of a spark at the points thats what the condenser should control to stop sparks burning the points Pete

depends on the make and cost of the hoods there's both out there and think the bonding is a heat welded process, rather than some adhesive process out the box idea's like ....dont think clear silicon bath sealer type stuff will work well unless you can keep it pressed flat till it cures ??? VELCRO....I mended a trouser zip as apprentice to save money....but the noise of ripping a sticky plaster off the nether regions was a bit alarming if your over in herts area this guy does a lot of good and economical work for our locals A R Pound http://baldock.cylex-uk.co.uk/company/a---r-pound-12946743.html Pete

yes undo the big nut on the jet holder 1/2 turn n give is a light tap with a spanner , make sure the piston is at its lowest point re nip the jet holder nut and then see if the problem persists if the piston slides easy in the top cover when its off with no sticking then jet centralising is most likely . Pete

also overdrive specialists like http://www.odspares.com/ Pete

Sounds like a big thimble for christmas how about turn it to a zip out only the half the zip to stitch in the hood and the other half done in front of the tele More wine and strong tea syndrome looms. pete

Im all for deleting or sealing them off But try to advise why and what they do in the first instance theres also holes for the air bleed in the carb to manifold gasket just fit this upside down has same sealing effect you can spend hours with a thermometer , heat source and strong tea setting these up too the book with little gain or reliability in what youve done we have aerosols for start you bast*rd now we need one for delete the B.......d and one for read the manual bast...d Ha! pete

If theres a lot of unburnt fuel lying around due to non starts then it will seep out the gasket daft as it may seem the gasket make up is more to seal air leaks , but can be quite pourous to liquid fuels And a gasket leak has to be pretty severe to stop a cold start take the plugs out and cook them dry , blow lamp or in with the turkey preferably a hot air gun But back to your weak spark ...check the points and condenser is still in the ball park pete

Cant edit on thisnsilly tablet thing , but ignore a lot of that yours is a mk3 and I see the temperature compensators on the side , that port is the air inlet bleed to the little compensator on the front side of the carb held on with 2 screws this must have the gasket cut to allow air in from the filter box its worth checking the compensators are sealing , the plastic plunger inside must be closed when cold or at normal temperature , or its bleeds air and you will never set the idle mixture if its opening turn the small nut to fully close the plunger, its more important its closed than open when setting idle mixtures up the gadjet has two o rings to seal air leakage between its inside boss and the oiter section to the main carb body, these rings are often in the rebuild kits, you may need to dig the inner one out this thing leans the idle mixture when underbonnet temp gets high, ic they never open again its not the end of the world,, but to repeat if they are open under normal temps idle settings then your mixture settings will be too rich

Blow down the port with a straw or similar I think the larger hole is a blind one to nowhere the float breather is the upper smaller hole if the port does have a through airway it will also mimic the hole on the airbox face if you need to make a hole use the shank of a large drill or a old pushrod or steel ball or similar and give it a tap with a small hammer will makena nice clean round hole or attack with sharp knife and sticky plasters ready

Check or bin the condenser , or its connections pete

Steve rhe TS3 was a hard act to follow there were 4 TS4 saved from chrysler scrapping them one is now restored and running in NewZealand I may start a post on these amazing engines I often meet up with their design engineer who is over 90 now you need to get the Commer Story by Geof Carverhill Im in there a good few times pete

Easydrive was a smiths consortium electro magnetic auto mainly used in Rootes products it never worked that well , My dad had a test minx , fired it up one day and it went straight out the garage ............ ............the brick wall end !!!!! the metalic particles had a tendency to solidify when parked up. as for 35 vs 65 we had a pre production 2 ton Commer Walkthru On test and up airport hill the engine was flat out (as best a 4.203 perky could do) and the van was stalled , big cloud of oil fumes and a big bang well then they tried the 65 which handled the torque a little better, later life in 50series Bus the 65 blew to bits the Allison was its savior for a while .... here endeth Pete

hark the Herald as for sheep .......something about washing socks by night ??? Pete

One of my locals had his nice vitesse used by a film co suppling a car to this , it was wrecked hired for 3 weeks took 6 months , hood bent and torn window winders ripped off flat tyres , and worst of all handbrake cable torn off by straps on tranporter where most of its time was spent the repair was to bolt the loose end of the cable to the cars floor so only operated one wheel took a year to get the hood paid for ...the conclusion dont loan or hire your pride to any other than yourself or you may regret it pete

On many makes the flywheel spigot is often dedicated to take the spigot on the flexiplate At worst may need a crank from a 2000 auto. Hopefully not. flywheel would have to be drilled to take the flexiplate so mk1 2ltr and 1600 are similar flywheel and crank spigots pete

Has Doug now got a 'facelift' then and now you can guess why triumpf originals didnt have a greaser, dont want to confuse the operators same as why springs had front written on , doesnt matter but removes any 'WHICH WAY THEN' Not easy with the small cross pin and more restricted with the fatter freelander type And look how long greased for life lasted many years Pete

well there is no 2ndary reistance given in any of my Triumph Manuals or any Lucas manuals , not even for testing Lucas state just by blip the points should give a sharp spark across a 6mm gap from the king lead if its weak then duff condenser or duff coil.... replace it theres a lot of reference to over tight clamped fixing band clamps ( thats old centre screw in the omega clamp) too tight and coils will fail !!! Pete

12v primery should read 3 ohms across the terminal blades and balasted 6-8v should read 1.5 ohms with no power or any leads connected dont have the secondary results office a bit cold with no sun pete

The girls in the factory would have told us where to stick the microphone let alone pose for a coat hook The riffle racks were more inspiring nothing girly about them of you want a tough off roader they go quite cheap pete

Thats a faily standard diy repair on the flange, if you can get a brass or gunmetal nut it saves the heat seizure in the future you may need to file a flat on the flange to get the head to seat flat pete

its called Jump. the youtube was loaded by a guy in the RB44 club forum from a cd i copied from the old tapes there was a rolling end but its seems to have got cut off , i dont have the orig tape anymore , its in the Rootes heritage centre nowt to do with Rootes but I off unloaded a load of old historic stuff including a workshop manual for a Humber scout car written by my dads brother for the WW2 all the family were in Commer/Rootes from 1917 thro to my departure in 2003 , sorry rambling Pete