Anglefire

I picked up a gasket from David Manners at lunchtime as they aren't far from the office- and also a new PRV plunger thing and copper washer. I've had a thought that when I put the exhaust and manifold on, that there was a compression dip in the alloy of the inlet manifold - and I wonder if the clamps aren't applying enough pressure before being fouled by something else - so was going to drop a small penny washer behind the nose of the clamp on the inlets to see if that nips it up before I go to the trouble of changing the gasket - if it doesn't work, then I have the bits to sort it (hopefully!)

I think I've found the air leak. Gasket Sprayed with some brake cleaner and it nearly stalls - both sides too. Whats the best gasket to get?

It does look like PRV - looking at the video's I took a few minutes ago. You can see the valve (I assume!) either opening or closing! The choke stuck on the one carb so was running rough and only about 500rpm! Second time I started it, it was ok (ish!)

Especially given the longest drop is from the rocker cover and that is normal looking.

No, I haven’t either. Im going to drop the oil at the weekend and fit a new filter and look at the prv again. Going to fit the 3/4 adapter and a suitable filter. The one @rogerguzzi suggested on the other post is about £2.70 from eurocarparts with the current discount and they have an outlet right by the office. So will get one or two in

Oil pump is new. So hopefully that it’s it. The level only needs to go below the level of the intake. And was a lot worse when the level was down to the minimum mark. Once topped up was ok. Prv is new - but I’ve not inspected the seat. Might need a cut down drill ..

Su carb hs2.

They should be straight for a start. there is a screw on the side of the cast part which allows the needles to be removed. Once that is done there is a letter/number reference on the upper barrel of the needle which should be the same for both. You may be able to straighten the one. If not get a new pair so the wear if any is the same. When fitting make sure they are fitted with the Collar flush to the barrel

Whilst I sort of get the cold air being better for the charge into the engine, once it’s moving I do wonder how much difference it really makes. Plenty of cars I’ve seen with the air intake over the exhaust- and not always selectable to a different position in the winter and summer.

Doesn't seem to be. But never say never!

I have a real weird issue with my oil pressure on start up. Which I think I've worked out what is happening. Basically, I start the engine and the oil light goes out almost straight away. The pressure gauge builds up, then falls, then builds up, then might fall again, then builds up and sits at 90psi ish. Then as it warms up drops back to 50psi ish - even hotter and it drops another 10psi or so. The lower the oil level, the more times its seems to oscillate. I think what is happening, is that the pump basically is pulling the oil out of the sump quicker than its dropping back in - until its warm enough. I've had a look at the dipstick tube to see if the marks are in the right place and compared it to the engine I took out. Current engine on the right, old engine the left. Current engine tube length 30mm or 1 3/8" Old tube length 1 1/4" So given the marks on the old and new are about the same in the engine, any ideas why the oil return is slow? Assuming that the oil level is actually correct in both cases! The old engine came out of a Dolly, the new one is a Spitfire engine. I am going to change the oil anyway soon and put Millers 20/50 in which might get done next weekend unless I get some time one evening this week.

To be fair it has been said on here on the other thread pertaining to the new rules with a link to this site. https://www.britishmotorvehicles.com/news/the-new-mot-exemption-explained# which does say the same - but Probably paid by the word as there are a lot!

Oh bugger. I didn’t look at that link - only went through the first one ?

There is a saying amongst most Land Rover owners i know - and that is to make sure the wife doesn't sell the bits when you have died for what you told her you bought them for! I also find parts I want to sell are worth significantly less than what you need to spend if you need them!

This document is of interest for those wanting larger tyres. https://btmauk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/ETRTO-2016-Approved-Rims.pdf

My granddad lost a finger in a workshop of some sort - story goes he was running his finger over a machine and it sliced it off. Wouldnt be so bad but he was the inspector. ?

No not at all!

Karl, slightly off topic so apologies for that - but is related- not particularly this video as such, but just Arthur Tusk in general. His repair work is amazing. Not sure if I’d want to drive some of the cars due to the metal fatigue- but still

I remember some years ago that a lot of fords (probably others too) that burst into flames following an accident and that was because the dot 4 (I think dot3 was ok) brake fluid was dropping into the exhaust because the cylinder mounted clip on reservoir flew off and sprayed its contents everywhere and it burst into flame having a lower flash point than petrol. They now or did in the 80’s cable tie them on. Most cars now have the master cylinder in a separate compartment or behind another bulkhead. I’ll try petrol though it’s probably going to be in a place I can’t get to!

Yes it’s the same as I originally setup when I had it. But that doesn’t necessarily mean anything! Actually what I’ve not tried it closing down the intake to the throttle bodies with my hand. Though fuel has to be getting to the engine too. Though my what I think is high oil consumption could be it? It went from half way up the dipstick to the min mark in about 130miles. But no sign of a leak or blue in the exhaust. Unless it’s going somewhere else. I didn’t think so - but not sure tbh. I’m not sure the best way to check. The gasket was new so I would hope seals ok. and the only way to change it is to drop the water down a bit and whip it off - I can’t think if the exhaust has to come off too? I can check that on my spare engine though if needs be. I didn’t put any additional sealant on it.

I had another look last night. Idle is possibly a bit lower - but not much. Taking off the oil cap and you can feel a bit of pressure in there - which I'm sure isn't right as there is only one place that can come from I assume. Removing the oil breather from the rocker cover and plugging it also made no difference so any extra air is not from there (which given its before the throttle disks is no real surprise!) Though if you blocked the pipe on the carbs with your finger then if you took it off the idle speed would change and almost stall - but if it didn't the idle speed came back - but I'm guessing that is just the differential pressure across the needle changing and then re-balancing itself. So I think a compression test is on the cards for a start.

Well there was a hint all way around but I would expect that tbh. Though I will have a look at my other carbs later too. Though I’ve had the same issue on the the previous engine so it has to be something other than carbs directly. Not sure if I said before but the old manifold servo take off was as loose too - but that had a disintegrating “paper” gasket. So that could be the common problem.

Apparently yes - but not in 13” rims only 14”?

Post twiddle update. Dropped off one of the carbs tonight and the butterfly was installed correctly (was little doubt there was but not being able to get the idle down as ran out of adjustment had to check!) Looking through the carb when fully closed, you can see the meerest hint of light around the "join" to the body. But given a turn down produces quite a gap, its not significant I would suggest? There is no obvious gaps between the flanges as the carb bolts on to the heat sync and then the manifold. So I thought I would check the blanked off servo take off - and it was reasonably loose - not finger tight - but not a lot more. How much extra air is needed to get the idle up? I only ask because I've not restarted the engine as its pretty late and we have some young kids next door and whilst I would happily start it to go somewhere, I don't think its fair to have it idling. I've also noticed the oil level has dropped more than I would have expected. But I haven't noticed any smoke in the exhaust and I don't see any leaks either. And the water looks clean (Blue essentially).

Ah, yes I missed that vital piece of information