Anglefire

Interesting the ignition key was left in. My initial logic was to lock the wheel so the wheels wouldn’t steer. But then thinking for another couple of seconds, I guess a bump in the road could break the column lock.

I have never really been able to relax on the ferry - I prefer to train it and nap for the 30 odd minute crossing and if needed nap at a service station once over the water. But it is very much each to their own! Most of my crossing have been with 2 drivers, so one naps and one drives (not in the spitfire - but on off road trips to the Pyrenees.) Holidays abroad in the car with the family, then just me drives - though if with the inlaws, any loo stops seem to take bloody ages so I often get a nap in then.

Not sure if that is a reflection on you or your ex.................

I would suggest a new crush washer as a minimum and probably a new spring and valve itself. Part numbers 107246 - 501258 - 131535 - 132107 in this one: And a 9/16" drill to clean out the seat.

I've changed times on the tunnel loads of times John. Sometimes free (mostly if its busy and you end up being late) sometime a few quid if early - £9 was last time I think.

Its just below the filter housing - a bit awkward to get to - need a big spanner to undo it - 13/16" rings a bell.

Pressure relief valve. If it sticks it can cause low pressure. I think mine is a bit dispite being replaced. Next stop is to clean the seat up.

Overfilling shouldn’t cause low oil pressure. Check the prv

How short does the drill bit need to be? I ask because despite changing my PRV and it being better for a few miles, its back to doing the same weirdness so next job is to clean the seat I guess. And how do you cut them down? (Perhaps a stupid question deserving a stupid answer!)

I think they are just standard bearings +10thou

I put some Bars Leaks in mine when the rear drivers side (carbs) water cap weeped a bit when cold. Seems to have sorted that out. I got the car out again tonight and got the carbs tuned up better now. I'm not 100% convinced that spraying the brake fluid is totally fool proof And I'll give my thoughts as to why. When I changed the gasket on Wednesday night, the engine didn't really get hot - I sprayed around the manifold and there was not change. Brilliant. Tonight one of the last things I did was to spray the manifold again - and the revs dropped. - but if I have a leak, then it must be small because I had to increase the idle speed with the idle screws to make it run at the right speed and also lean it off a couple of flats (which makes sense if air is coming in from elsewhere, more fuel is needed) So I had a thought - yes I had a leak, but probably also was coming in all around the inlets and they have sealed to a great extent - and the brake cleaner is cooling the manifold down and the fuel is condensing a bit so goes lean. I say this as well because, the contents is a mixture of ISOBUTANE and Butane - both highly explosive . So surely any leak would pull the vapours in a burn causing an increase in idle speed, not decrease? Anyway, whatever, it does appear to be running better - though might have to change needles as it may to too lean running now. But that can wait until I can give it a proper run.

Excellent news

Saw that space in a cut away trunion at the twiddle day. Good to see the mechanics of it too.

Changed the gasket tonight - only took about 75minutes start to finish including running the engine I'm pretty sure its sorted - it runs but I had to increase the idle with the butterfly screws to make it run at least enough to spray some brake cleaner over the inlet manifold gasket. And there was no change Now just need to sort the carbs out - but is too late to play on the drive now - and I'm on the 5:40 train to London in the Morning So from my perspective - get Payen gaskets!

I agree Pete and did fit a small penny washer behind the clamp on the inlet side before the gasket was changed last time on the small top clamps. The bottom clamps don’t seem to be an issue though I’m not sure how much brake cleaner got to the gasket joint! i didn’t put them behind the new gasket because I put better clamps with dimples that actually lifted the centre of the clamp away from the exhaust flange. Hopefully I’ll have time to swap the gasket for the new one and hopefully the metal sealing ring will do it’s job. I am tempted to run a small beed of RTV around too - though I know it shouldn’t be required.

The gasket arrived today and is exactly like the picture above and is genuine Payen. Hopefully with the metal sealing rings around the inlets, it will seal properly and my vacuum leak will be a thing of the past!

Back on topic. Well sort of. I put my hand over the end of the exhaust on my defender 300tdi. I don’t recommend it. Wife laughed though when I came in the house with black face, hands and clothes.

004 is 23 teeth. 001 is 20 teeth. The canley site suggests 004 is standard 1500 spitfire. 001 for the Swiss market and 005 for USA. https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-spitfire-mkiv/1500-rear-extension-and-speedo-drive-details/

I was basing my no of gear teeth on the canley site - part number 219004 - but there is a 219003 which is 23 teeth

Assuming the GPS proves its out of kilter, I guess the required speedo drive cog is the black one with 23 teeth?

Thanks Dave - little bit more to add to my story! The engine in the car when I bought it was from a Dolly 1300 - but I'm 99% sure was rebuilt as a 1500. The flywheel was also a dolly flywheel so pre-engaged starter. It is therefore possible that the gearbox is from a dolly as well. In fact if you replace the diff ratio in the spreadsheet with 4.11 then the calculated speed at 3000rpm is about 50. I always knew the car was a bit of a triggers broom, but also looks to be a heinz 57 too

I picked the MANN for a couple of reasons - 1) @rogerguzzi had used one on his Spitfire, and 2) it was very cheap from Eurocarparts Oh and it has good none return properties.

Can you remove the clip off the drive and operate the wipers by hand? If they are nice and free then it is the motor end, otherwise it is the mechanism. Not much help and probably bloody obvious

Actually, I think it is the top of gear box oil or similar..........

I've been looking at the gasket and a picture of one on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=222732759551&_sacat=0 Which I've ordered - this one is a Payen (I hope!) one and has a sealing ring around the inlet ports - which has to be better surely? Neither the one I took off or the new one has such a thing (You can see this in the pictures above) It's only a couple of hours to swap it out. Should get some time one evening after it turns up to fit it.