Dick Twitchen

I would seriously follow up the steel frame suggestion, cost saving can go into a pit or ...... There are some excellent, flexible, designs out there and the insulated versions will make winter work a treat and also reduce the condensation issue so prevalent in detached concrete structures (practical experience). They can also prove less obtrusive to the neighbours if you pick the correct colour(s). Dick

Further to Richard's comments having had a problem last year enroute Classic Le Mans, and subsequently fitting heat reflective sleeve http://www.hilltop-products.co.uk/cable-sleeving-protection/heat-reflective-sleeving/hilflex-afs.html Whilst chasing down temperatures along the fuel line from before the pump to the carbs that there was noticeable (15c) variation between the front and rear carb inlet temperatures. I could only put this down to the gap between the S/S heat shields and the manifold heat rising through the gap. Problem invariably apparent after being stuck in traffic and then cleared, well that problem did, once cooled down underway. Dick

When I restored my GT6 10 years ago I purchased a complete system from a large supplier and the manifold would not align with the studs; helpfully the engine was still on a stand. After sending me three different ones still no joy so returned the lot; my contacts in the dockyard reckoned the manufacturer had whipped it off the jig with allowing time for it to cool after welding. A Jigsaw supplied one fitted straight off and has been no problem other than the same as Pete's experience of a tight fit against the block, spookily I came up with the same solution by rerouting the byepass hose. Dick

Well I am going using the Newhaven- Dieppe ferry on Friday morning. Any other Forum readers bound for La belle France? Dick

Pete's correct, as per usual!

Doug, Adding shaped plates and using J clips on the gearbox cover plus screws has worked for me. Hopefully the photo makes in clear. Dick

And to complete Pete's 'tan=opp/adj' I recall reciting 'silly old Henry caught a hairy toad one afternoon' endlessly. Finally found it useful doing astro navigation, but that is really taking thread drift too far! Dick

Gary, There is usually a decent turnout from the TSSC Southern area, and this year I am planning to attend Sunday morning then in the afternoon drive down to the Crotch Cooler gathering. http://www.crotchcooler.co.uk/events/ Dick

Doug, That blocking of the screen is my concern above, with the GT6 screen being smaller, although the nice people in blue normally look the other way at us old car drivers (read that as you will). Daughter hopefully loaning her camcorder for trials this week. Dick

I had been thinking along the same lines as Paul but what I keep coming up against is the mounting issue, and not least how much of the windscreen in a GT6 gets blocked off by one; it could be even worse with a camcorder. I have a roll cage that may provide the answer using the diagonal strut, as long as the distance from the screen does not distort things too much. Dick

No, seriously! Article in the newspaper 22 Feb has an interview with the actor Oliver Chris who is appearing in Twelfth Night at the National Theatre; supporting photo shows a blue TR6, Reg Nos GYY 821L on stage (yes, it is that kind of production). Been online to see if I can find a photo but no luck; however, it seems the car gets a mention in the cast list handed out at the theatre! Dick

Apropos nothing at all but in Coventry the factory was always referred to as the 'Standard'. Similarly, Rootes/Chryslet/Peugot was known as the 'Humber'; this was even for the factory not on the Humber Rd but at Baginton. You could always tell an outsider from a genuine Coventry kid. Dick

I have just checked the three stepped heads (Mk1 GT6/Vitesse) in the garage and all are stamped 515400.

I also have a set of of the CJ Auto ramp set up that Pete refers to and they have been a real boon; low angle entry suits the GT6 and they cope with Land Rover and Jeep 4x4 no problem. They were not cheap at the time but you get what you pay for, and soooo reassuring when you are underneath! Time is coming to move them on so PM me if you want more info. Dick

Can I suggest a visit to your local area meet and have somebody do a comparison, this may well throw light on the problem straight away. Dick

Kai, You do not mention the general condition, has it been repaired/restored and how big is the overhang and is it parallel to the sill top. However, this is not unusual for a variety of reasons and not least repairs/restoration to: door skins on a frame that did not fit before, A & B posts but look closely at the sills and the adjacent floorpan. If they have been worked on it can be difficult to get all the gaps aligned. Whilst some may disagree there is a law of diminishing returns on some of this. How good was the starting point, how deep your pockets and what is the desired end state. If the rest of the car is good................. Does not say where home is but I am sure contacting your nearest area organiser will produce somebody willing to take a look and advise. Dick

Pete's comment about a floater in the tank was exactly my problem 2 months ago. Chased through all the other things mentioned, syphoned the fuel from tank and removed sender unit. Initially could see nothing amiss so went to syphon the last of the fuel and disturbed a piece of what can best be described as a piece of plastic coated price tag about 15mm in diameter that was the same colour as the tank interior. This was neutrally buoyant and was being sucked over the outlet pipe, wait a while and it would float away; repeat! Dick

Simon, Had a similar issue on a manifold for my GT6 Mk1 from a large supplier and after the umpteenth replacement had it analysed in the dockyard (don't ask). They reckoned it had been removed from the welding jig before sufficiently cooled. Sent back and the Jigsaw replacement fitted first time. Send yours back, as you say 'unfit', and my recommend is go elsewhere unless they are a local supplier you use regularly and normally have faith in; but two strikes and out. Dick

Just been to check and on mine there is the gap you have in the photo but only about 1.5" but I allowed the carpet to stand upright to close the gap. A Mk1 (and 2) has the option of a front board that extends the load space and butts up to the seats so you cannot see the gap at all and provides an out of sight stowage. There are tow different load space carpet lengths to suit and it just means you have to fit the upholstered leading edge cover to the front board. Dick

I could be offended if I was a wood turner, or the solution was done quickly/carelessly/without thought (definitions). Ten years ago the pencils were a recurring failure on the old forum, hopefully solved now the Club shop sells them; the correct sort of button seems to be a preferred solution among the Revival/Classic cars which are also road legal. In my case the horn push is only used twice a year (check and the MOT) as I much prefer hands on the wheel and driving technique a better solution to issues. The classic (sic) bodge was the Herald at Leatherhead being much admired which had 6 Scotchblocks in the engine bay and clearly not of a temporary nature. No response expected or required.

Nader, A standard GT6 radiator will happily cope under the circumstances; changing to an ally rad is attacking symptom not cause which in these circumstances is fairly fundamental. I have sorted old rads by removing from car, lay flat, fill with Coke or similar, leave for a day then back flush out. There are proprietary cleaners! Is the water pump actually working? An earlier post mentioned opening out a waterway hole in the cylinder, trust the it did not by accident move beyond the gasket cut out? The fact that your head waterways seem 'different' is baffling. Is it actually the correct head for the engine block and not one from a similar 6 cylinder Triumph? The Mk1 head, just had a look at a spare in the garage, does not have the kidney shape at all but only round holes. Need somebody with wider experience to chip in on this one. Dick

I, repeatedly, had the same problem as Doug and from a variety of suppliers, probably the same manufacturer. Had one that then worked for a year before also distorted, so gave up and fitted a stand alone red button a la kit car.

Belay my last, a bit! Had a niggling thought and just checked my Mk1 and I have the middle hole (on the 'hump') with a blanking plug, but not the other two.

Jim, Agree with Cookie, and I would change them for blanking plugs rather than a grommet. Dick

Kevin, A quick look at Canley Classics catalogues and part numbers indicates the 'original' for a Mk2 is no longer available and use a Mk3. Dick