trigolf

I replaced mine with a sheet of plastic cut out of the side of an old plastic drum. The plastic was the same thickness as the old Mill board. It's flexible too so you can bend it to shape. I stapled the handbrake gaiter to it as per original. Gav

Correct ! They strong enough to pull the spacer out, but not stick to the splines.

I recently had to revisit one of my CV shafts endfloat setting - don't ask ! I wanted to avoid taking the whole shaft off the car, as that involves slackening the transverse spring to let the inner end of the shaft pass the spring leave clamp bolt and then crawling underneath again to disconnect the driveshaft at the diff. I needed to change the 'distance' piece (spacer). Of course it's buried inside the inner bearing race when in situ. So I ordered 10x small neodymium magnets for £10.00 sellotaped them together and managed to 'fish' it out. See pic. Gav

True, but with these diffs now in excess of 40 yrs old and having been dismantled/ reassembled several times probably. Every little helps as they say...

I put a smear of blue hylomar on the faces before bolting up the shafts. I've never understood why Triumph never fitted a gasket, particularly as most Triumph diffs are as oil tight as the Torey Canyon! Gav

My late father had a one ended (previously 2 ended) spanner that a workmate had dropped across the batt terminals of an aircraft 'Trolley Accumulator' - basically a bank of 100AH batts in a trolley to start a/c on the ground. When the spanner shorted the batt out there was indeed a huge bang and one end of the spanner basically vapourised ! 😕 Gav

Like Pimp my Vit has done, I connected the electric pump to the spare 'accessory' terminal on the ignition switch and fitted an inline fuse of suitable rating. I've used a trad lucas toggIe switch for the pump mounted on a small bracket under the dash. I decided to mount the pump inside the bulkhead rather than engine side. Its then more convenient to divert the pipework from the old pump. Although I'm not obsessed with originality, it keeps the bulkhead looking tidier, at the small expense of hearing the pump motor more readily! The original pump wiper switch still works ok.

My Vitesse DHC with standard exhaust and very whiny diff sounds like a Lancaster on take off.. Gav

A very kind offer, thanks Roger- but I live in Christchurch, Dorset. I need to dismantle the brakes first anyway. Gav

Ok. I've given it some thought and think the jury's verdict is sound ! I'll have to see if I can persuade my work colleague to pop round with his mig welder.😕

Ok, Thanks Badwolf - looks like JB Weld could do the trick. Gav

Evening all. I'd like to repair the wear groove in the brake backplate, caused by the handbrake lever pin, under the brake cylinder. I don't have access to a welder, to fill the groove with weld. Has anyone successfully repaired the same wear with a steel 'putty'. I'm thinking of trying Steel Stik. It seems to get very good reviews ? Gav

It's definitely do'able as one unit (gb+od). Done it a few times myself. I 've found taking passenger seat out helps - gives a bit more room to wrestle it out through that side. It's easier still if you have a mate -one person underneath, as Clive says, managing trolley jack under the box and one person inside doing the hauling about. I'ts a heavy old bas...d ! Gav

Ian, IIRC, the Le Mans Spitfires were fitted with white chassis, as this makes spotting any fatigue cracks easier. Gav

Many years ago,one of my radius arm brackets was mullerered at the shock attachment end. I gave up trying to get it out and took it to a local garage. They had to use a gas axe and extreme violence to get it out! Nowadays I wonder if one of those induction coil gizmo's would work. Theyseem to have pretty impressive abilities. Gav.

Well, took the Vit out for a 60 mile run today - first trip out in ages. Managed to avoid all the holiday traffic hot spots and a pleasant run out in the countryside. Spotted 2 x TR6, 2 x A/H Healeys, 2 x MGB's , 1 x Capri MK1, 1 x Stag and 2 x Lancia Monte Carlo's. Wht was was even better, was that on returning home, I didn't smell faintly of petrol - for the first time in ages ! All that work refurbing the Strombergs was obviously worth it. Gav

Did Ferguson do a diesel version of the Grey Fergie ?

I've got both front seats from a 13/60 - matador red. They are very rough (been in storage for years) and reluctant to throw them in a skip. They would need new foams and diaphragms. But the frames are good. You can have them for free if you collect from Christchurch, Dorset. Gav

Can't help with a spare item I'm afraid - but how about making one ? It's only hardboard with three or four rubber feet cut to fit inside the the wheel rim. Gav

Bin it and fit a solid one as Colin says. We had same vibration prob on our 13/60 and got a solid type from a 1200 in the local scrapper ( those were that days). Strap rhymes with crap for a reason! Gav.

Pete, checked float heights @ 18 mm. The floats are the right way up. I've also checked that fuel pressure is in spec - which it is. I'm going to try an extra thin washer under the needle valve and set to 18 mm. Thanks for the link to buckeye. I'll have a look.

Afternoon all, i've been having problems trying to make my carbs fuel 'tight'. Long story short - both carbs have been leaking from the throats/overflow for some time. I've fitted new genuine needle valves, jet o rings and gaskets etc. I've checked the float height level several times now and they look fine to me. I can find no trace of Pete's pet hate -rubber pipe slivers- in either needle valve or carb innards, or anywhere! I see in the workshop manual, in the 'setting float height' section that, ...'an additional thin washer under the needle valve will lower the fuel level' I can understand this statement - but what float height do you set, if you do this ? I'm confused !

Yep. Canleys GT6 parts drawing show gaskets each side of filters in the box plus box to carbs. Gav

Hmm. That nyloc looks to be the correct size with Mk 1 eyeball. Not good if nylon is not engaging with shaft threads at all! How do the threads look on the shaft ? On my old shafts the last two threads weren't fully formed - poss damaged by a BL chimp many years ago, before I got the car, during a donut / wheel bearing replacement! Gav

I wonder if your battery is dying and doesn't like the extra load when trying to crank over a cold engine with thick oil etc.