trigolf

Ok, thanks for the info Roger. I'm surprised that no members in the Greater London area seemed to have used them, as they have been around for a long time. Courier costs are expensive when you have to ship a diff from the South coast,where I am ! Gav

That's interesting Nigel. Let us know how you get on ! Gav

Judging by the lack of comments - I take it that no one has used them in recent times ? They seem to get good testamonials from various classic owners with diff issues... Gav

There seems to be few transmission companies that recondition classic diffs (of all types) etc. Has anyone ever used Hardy Engineering Transmissions in Leatherhead to rebuild a Triumph diif successfully ( i.e. quiet)? I see they give a 12 month warranty on all jobs. Gav

So come on Gully, Don't keep us in suspense ! - Who do Robsport use - one man band or larger company ? Gav

Precisely, so like Colin, mine had a brand new crown wheel and pinion fitted, but started whining almost from square one! Now it's bloody annoying and very intrusive in a convertible thats already noisy anyway, especially with the hood up ! I gather that new C/w pinions were made abroad - Turkey ? I'm suspicious about the quality control of said items ! Gav

That's the part of Pete's theory that I don't understand - i.e. whine most likely bearings rather than mesh. If you buy an exchange recon diff, I expect all bearings to replaced as a matter of course. Bearings shouldn't be wearing after a few miles. Gav

A few years ago, I bought one from Canleys, with new C/P, which whined slightly on drive, and quiet on coast, from square one. Dave Pearson had it back and 'couldn't find anything wrong with it' but swapped it as a gesture of goodwill. Unfortunately the replacement turned out to be even noisier after very few miles. At that point I gave up for a while. I've said this before, but I don't understand why reconditioned Triumph small chassis diffs seem to be a complete lottery in terms of noise/leaks. I know people say that some parts, shims etc, are in short supply, but surely reconditioners are aware of this and I don't believe the parts are prohibitively expensive to remanufacture. I'm not aware of MGB owners moaning about the quality of recon diffs in huge numbers. As things stand now - with the cost of recon diffs going through the roof - I'm very reluctant to throw good money after bad. Surely somebody can build qiuet diffs ! Gav

Sometimes its supplied on a roll rather than pre-cut to correct length. Somebody's cocked up ! Gav

About 10 years ago, I bought Trelleborg donuts (marked Metalastic) through Bailey Morris Propshafts, in Bury St Edmunds ? Worth a try Gav

Kevin, I've just rebuilt mine with a kit from PowerTrack Brakes. http://www.powertrackbrakes.co.uk/ Paul Hunt -the boss - is very helpful. JL spares will rebuild your servo if you don't fancy it yourself. Or you can get the cylinders resleeved with Stainless if necessary and rebulid yourself. Gav

Hi all, Another vote for LEDS by me, courtesy of Classic Car Lighting. It's not hard to spot the difference. I've no connection to the company, but am impressed with their products.

Richard I'm very interested in what Clive says about fitment to the original Vit Mk 1 chassis fixing points, as still there, on my Vit mk 2 chassis. I have the Classic Driving Developments CV drive shafts fitted. I'm assuming you didn't cut off the lever arm shock mount brackets to achieve this ? Gav

Hi Clive, I think I'm right in saying that a tele shock will foul the lever arm damper mounting brackets on the Mk 2 Vit, if you tried to fit them to the original Vit mk 1 chassis point? So you have to use the chassis extn brackets, which then alters the fitted length ? Gav

Richard, your comments are very interesting, particularly regarding the Spax failure. I purchased the shocks thorough the Club in 2017 and due to a house move only got round to fitting them in the spring this year. So they've only done about 300 miles ! The chassis brackets have been fitted for years, complete with Koni dampers, that I discovered much later were slightly too long, so I thought I'd change them for the correct fitted length items. As you know Koni don't make a 'correct' length item for the Vit Mk2 . Even though the Koni's are not exactly right, (Vit 2L Mk 1), I liked the compliant ride they give and never really had any obvious problems with them bottoming out. Nigel, Clive, Paul, I agree, the Gaz shocks seem very hard at anything over setting 2. I had mine set to 1. Although the shocks are technically out of warranty now - (2 years), I'd like to think that Gaz will be willing to sort it FOC - I still have the original box and receipt ! Thanks everyone Gav

Afternoon all. Has anyone had any problem with Gaz Shocks ? Reason I ask, is because I am ! Having recently fitted the Rimmer CV Driveshaft conversion to my Vit MK2, I also replaced the previously fitted rear shocks (which were technically slightly too long) with the bespoke Club GAZ shocks, suitable for Rotoflex with the top bracket conversion kit. The GAZ shocks have only done about 150 miles and the l/h one has started 'knocking' and crashing over the slightest bump. I'd set them at the minimum setting. At first I didn't believe the problem was the shocker, so checked and double checked everything in the suspension on that side. All the bushes have been checked and replaced as necessary and the spring/fixings checked. Trying to recreate the fault - bouncing up and down on the rear wing - with the car on ramps proved fruitless. I couldn't exert enough force. Today, as a last resort - I put the previously fitted shock back on and went for a test drive. The fault has gone and has not reappeared. So, the problem is definitely in the GAZ shock. It feels ok mounted in the bench vice and exersised. Any thoughts, before I contact GAZ ? Gav

Rich I 'm pretty sure that some Chroming companies do offer to refurbish MAZAK metal mouldings and re-chrome. Might take some phone calls, but could be worth it ? Gav

My workmate had an original one as a s/h runaround. Cost him £300. Had it for two years and then it failed the MOT on front subframe rust- which apparently is a common problem and not weldable in situ. A new subframe from Fiat cost 300 quid, so he trawled the nations scrapyards and finally found one in North Wales ! They are obviously in short supply ! Gav

Your local Council Tip/Recycling site should have a dedicated container for waste oil. Gav

I think you'll have to drill the pop rivets out of the tonneau press studs along the back edge of the seat back, if it's a convertible. Gav

I had the same problem many years ago after fitting Spax shocks at the front. I replaced the Stanpart top spring pan shock bushes with the Spax version of the same thing. I think the poor quality rubber collapsed very quickly causing the shock to tramp about in the top spring pan and wrecking it. They hadn't done many miles either, so I wasn't very impressed. I replaced them with Koni's and have had no problems since. Gav.

Ian, I removed the Crank Pulley bolt by taking the plastic fan off and using a bit of right angle Dexion of about 3 ft (from memory) with a V shaped notch cut in it, to clear the pulley bolt head. Attach the dexion to the pulley using two of the fan mounting bolt holes and wedge the other end of the bar against the ground. Now get your breaker bar/socket and turn the pulley bolt head against the the direction of the bar. Worked for me. BTW I have an old Kenlowe sucker fan, which seems to work ok. Gav

I flushed all the pipework through with meths when I coverted to silicon fliud many years ago. But I did put all new seals in beforehand. There were/are some people who say that you should put all new seals in if converting to silicon as the 'swelling' agents' within the fluids are different and reusing old seals is not advisable. I don't know if this a valid concern, based on scientific fact or not, but I prefer nor to take the chance when it comes to brakes. Gav

Colin, IIRC the reversing light switch and the overdrive cut out switch use the same type of switch. Can you try swapping the switches and see if the reversing light fuse then blows instead ? Gav

That's correct.Leave the spring eye bolt until last. Jack the spring with the spring lifter as high as you can. You should be nearly lifting the car off the axle stands, if the spring is high enough. Then push the vertical link in towards the diff to try and line up the spring eye bolt hole and vertical link holes, so that you can push and tap the bolt in. Paul's right it's a pig of a job. It's a bit easier if you can get someone to help. Gav