trigolf

I find jacking the front up- & putting on an axle stand, to get the weight off, helps get the oil in. Gav

I have the CV shafts conversion. The staked hub nuts are different size and, I think, metric thread to fit CV shaft, so not compatible. Gav

I always thought the correct spec nylon was not particularly well located as the threads aren't fully formed to the end of the shaft. Couple that with 50 yrs old shafts and worn threads is not ideal. I've got a vague memory that Jaguar spec the same spec nut for one of the classic Jags - XK120 ? Gav

I recently bought a Weber Synchrometer from an online motor sport shop. Can't remember who. Excellent piece of kit. They normally come with the rubber cone sized for Weber carb thoats. You need to buy extra cones suitable for SU/ Strombergs and swap them. Gav

So the debate rolls on.. Out of curiosity, I did a check of exhaust manifold nuts with three major Triumph suppliers. They all list brass nuts for exhaust manifolds. Back in the day I recall going into the local BL dealer and getting the same, as listed for the exhaust manifold.

I stand to be corrected, but I always thought the studs fitted to the exhaust manifold for the downpipe were UNC thread and fitted with brass UNC nuts. They are on my Vit. Gav

If Colin's current estimate of 4.5 - 5K TSSC members is fairly accurate, then that's a bit of an eye opener. IIRC membership peaked at about 14K in the early 90's. Trying to encourage modern youth to take an interest in our cars, beyond just walking past them at shows is the challenge. After all, as has been said many times down the years - " We are merely custodians" 😕 Gav

Hi Johnny. I just dug out the replacement CD150 filters that I bought for my Vit more than a year ago. Funnily enough, I bought them from MEV Spares too. Like yours they have no spacer tubes! I ended up cutting up my old Fram filters and gluing them in to the new ones. I think that the vast majority of classic car owners have them as second cars now and so would be prepared to pay slightly more for a quality replacement. So I don't think the old argument from suppliers -about how much owners are willing to pay stacks up now..😕 Gav

I expect you're aready aware - but the Rotoflex drive couplings are the same as fitted to Vitesse Mk 2 and GT6 Mk 2 and early GT6 mk 3. Gav

I replaced the knackered cardboard bit with a piece cut out of the side of a 10L plastic container. The plastic is thick enough to be strong but also curves around the transmission tunnel. Gav

Clive's right I think, some years ago I bought these as part of the bracket conversion kit - from the club I think ? Although they seem to have been ok on my Mk 2 Vit, I 've suspected that they were slight too long for some time. So recently I bought GAZ shocks from the Club which are the correct fitted length for rotoflex setup. You will see the comparison in open and closed lengths in the pics. As I've converted the car to CV shafts and dont need to clear the donut, I'm going to refit the Konis. Clive assures me they will be the correct length when to the MK1 top chassis mount - and do away with bracket extens. Gav

I can't comment on a suitably rated solar panel for the garage roof as suggested. But, with Mains supply available in my garage - I have used an Accumate Batt conditioner for years - it's been 100% reliable. I'm still using a ten year old Batt on the Vit, having 'conditioned' it from purchase date. Gav

I think Clive will be along soon. I think he said you can reuse normal (standard) length rear shocks that mount off the original chassis mount if using CV shafts.

Well, opened up the rear carb today - diaphram is still good, but O rings are naff - problem is leaking from the carb throat and jet holder. Float height looks ok(and not leaking), so I'm wondering about the needle valve seating. Anyway - I think I know what I'll need and where to go. Thanks all.

Hi Ian, Yes, I used Burlen many years ago, but just wondering if I can get the same quality elsewhere for cheaper ! Gav

Evening all, I'm looking for a service kit for my Vitesse. I see James Paddock do one at a competitive price, but I'm wondering about the quality of the diaphram included ? I've seen cheap ones at autojumbles that are almost rigid, rather than nice and flexible. Anyone bought one from them recently ? Gav

Stan Walters restored my Vitesse bodywork way back in the mid-eighties, including dip galvanizing the chassis. He had a very good sprayer working for him, a young lad, but very good. I was very happy with his work. Gav

I've bought LEDs for the side and brake lights from Classic Car LEDs. Their website says that all their LEDs are CE approved. I'll keep the receipt in case of an argument with my MOT Tester, though I'm sure he won't get excited over it.... Gav

I've just fitted ,what I consider as well made LEDs, to my side and brake lights, on the understanding that the ruling only applied to converting Tungsten Headlamps to LED. This is to do with the lens pattern of trad headlights. The bloody DVSA are moving the goalposts already ! Gav

I used to have this symptom with my Vitesse. The problem has disappeared after swapping to CV driveshafts. I've wondered if it might be the Rotoflex couplings reacting to the torque as the rear of the car lifts slightly in reverse, rather than squatting down in forward gear?

Well, before I'd think of replacing the manual pump with an electric one, I'd want to check the existing pump is failing. Have you checked the pump output into a jam jar or similar?

Pete, The reason I'm swapping from tungsten to LED's (where legal) is to reduce the load on the 51 yr old loom. Every little helps - as they say. Besides which - a led sidelight bulb costs £2.32 - not much more than a trad tungsten bulb.. Gav

I also had the soft pedal problem, after rebuilding my Powerstop Servo. I traced the fault to the output union, which was weeping around the copper sealing washer, but so slightly, it was very hard to see unless you really peered at it. With the union 'nipped up' the fault cleared. Gav

Colin, I've modded my lights to reinstate the central divider as you have done. We were fresh out of Hot Chocolate tins, so had to use some old offcut of galvanized tin. Anyway, I've fitted the Warm White Leds ( From Classic Car LEDS ) and attached pics of trad bulb versus LED. With MK 1 eyeball, I can't tell the difference, so it still looks 'trad'. Gav

Nice job Colin, I'm still trying to find a suitable bit of 'tin'' to do the same. I'm fitting Warm White sidelights. But, unlike your 'test' LED, the ones' I've ordered have led arrays on the the side of the bulb as well as the end, so I expect a more comparable light spread similar to a tungsten bulb. Gav