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Connectors.


Wagger

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There are many tpes of cable connectors, bullets, spades, screw terminals and crimps. All have caused me problems over the years.

Bare copper and brass all develop Verdigri and this makes a wonderful copper oxide type rectifier, conducting one way and not in the other. Usually, these stop conducting altogether.

The 'Tinned' ones are slightly better, but dependent upon what they were 'Tinned' with, as solder has now become Lead free. Tin plate is the best, unless you can find gold over silver.

Screw types now use steel screws instead of brass. The more 'Different' metals used, the worse the problems become. Assembling using good old Vaseline does seem to make things last longer, but they then pull apart more easily. I now resort to crimping all using tinned crimps and clean copper ends. A pin when fault finding though, as I have to cut them out.

Recent experience with a 12 year old mobility scooter has highlighted just how lack of use makes all of this worse. Ten days ago, the damned thing kept going into snail mode, so I have kept using it over a surface resembling cobbles. It has yet to fail. I can only guess that the severe vibration is jiggling all connectors into making contact. Maybe also there is some 'Cathodic' action taking place.

So, drive your cars over bumpy roads, and the electrics may last better, neglecting shorts. Shame is, everything else will fall apart including your dental fillings.

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39 minutes ago, Wagger said:

So, drive your cars over bumpy roads

Good job I didn't yesterday afternoon when I came back from the local garage after he had adjusted rear brakes & handbrake on my 13/60. We were sitting down to eat at about 19:15 when he turned up at the door. He had left his magnetic inspection light under the car, luckily for him it was still there. 

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1 minute ago, Chris A said:

magnetic inspection light

Left mine under an American R-V, Still there 2 Months later in Spain!.👍. Batteries had leaked, so the device was scrap anyway!.😭

Pete

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well at least you 'clocked it '   Ha 

back in the 70s terminal corrosion was a nightmare on trucks  even worse on 24v  on truck testing we brushed tectyl ( like waxoyl) onto every exposed terminal and that sorted out the crappy terminals of the day   as things like horns  terminals would rot through in a couple of arduous days driving 

so vaseline or waxoyl  will help 

Pete

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I've been been using ACF 50 on connections every couple of years. Had some Motorbike chain grease from years ago, in an aerosol. I sprays out thinly and suck into small gaps by capillary action, then thickens up quite considerably, It used to last a good while on bike chains, exposed to the elements daily, back in the day.

Just done my electrical connections with it, plus, doors, bonnet, boot hinges and catches etc with it.

Seemed a good idea at the time?   

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1 hour ago, daverclasper said:

I've been been using ACF 50 on connections every couple of years. Had some Motorbike chain grease from years ago, in an aerosol. I sprays out thinly and suck into small gaps by capillary action, then thickens up quite considerably, It used to last a good while on bike chains, exposed to the elements daily, back in the day.

Just done my electrical connections with it, plus, doors, bonnet, boot hinges and catches etc with it.

Seemed a good idea at the time?   

I too am a fan of bike chain lube, great for all sorts of stuff including shed hinges/door bolts. And yes, good for electrical connections or even a bit of rustproofing as it seems to stick n place really well.

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Never considered Chain lube, but it does see some logic. My "go to" is vaselene and ocasionally White lithium grease too, seems to keep the crud (verdigris) from forming on battery terminals OK?. WD40, followed by waxoyl, was pretty much an "essential" treatment for the exposed Mini distributers too.

Pete

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