Workshop options

[DrKai]

So before embarking on the full gt6 rebuild I figured I better have a garage. I have this to play with and a budget to completely redo the garden of 20-40k or so including leveling the bottom for a big patio, retaining wall etc. 

My question is what would you do?

Location: there's access down the side of the house so it's either a workshop at the top and a track along the right edge of the garden or a garage at the bottom of the garden on the right?

Materials: i think brick/ block is going to eat too far in to the total budget so steel vs timber?

Size? I'd like to be able to work on 2 cars comfortably + store all the garden, camping, DIY stuff etc 

Foremost idea was making a yard at the top with a 9mx9m or so steel building with a hardcore area in front and fencing it all off

All input greatly appreciated

[mishmosh]

I would always suggest brick / block. Pretty minimal maintenance. We are currently building a 9x6 m garage. Double with store behind and storage in attic. Charging £36 k. Brick plinth blockwork above. Tiled roof. It's for a mate so not a lot of margin !

[mishmosh]

Or. How about contacting a steel framed farm shed company.

[dougbgt6]

My dad put in a block garage at the bottom of his garden, 50 years later I know it's still there. low maintenance. You might like to consider what facilities you want in the garage. Electricity, obviously, but it's a long way to the bottom of your garden, you will probably need a certified sparks for that. 

 

My brother has moved house and has a detached garage. He is putting in a sink and electrically heated water which, obviously, will need a drain. Plumber required.

 

My brother also has a fridge and television point! No bed or heating yet, but I think soon!

[Dick Twitchen]

I would seriously follow up the steel frame suggestion, cost saving can go into a pit or ......  There are some excellent, flexible, designs out there and the insulated versions will make winter work a treat and also reduce the condensation issue so prevalent in detached concrete structures (practical experience).  They can also prove less obtrusive to the neighbours if you pick the correct colour(s).   

Dick

[Colin Lindsay]

Oh Lord... you could regret asking this! I've just built a garage and am looking to show it off

I needed an expansion with my last 18 x 18 block garage and went for a metal shed, about 20 feet x 20 feet if I remember correctly. Great for the first few years but then boy did it rust - to be honest it was never anything other than a shelter. In both the block (cavity wall) garage and the shed condensation was a huge problem, most of my tools and car parts - and the cars themselves - rusted when unattended and it was a never ending battle to keep things dry and rust free. Sockets, spanners and chrome overriders all suffered and electrical tools frequently gave up. Of course the summer was like working in an oven and anything rubber just dried out and cracked. 

When it came to my recent house move my new neighbour objected to my plans for a small, modest single storey garage at the front of my house and I decided to use an area of unused lawn to the side / rear of the house parallel to his existing garage. I used an excellent builder who had some great suggestions and by digging into a sloping bank I was able to elongate the originally planned garage to thirty-five feet, although not as long as the fifty he suggested. I had a few requirements of my own - I needed an upstairs storage area but for only half of the length of the garage as the last half was to be left open to the roof to facilitate a two-post lift, and I wanted the garage dry so required full insulation of walls, floor and ceiling.

It took five months from start to finish with a lot of alteration and tweaking along the way - I didn't really want running water or central heating, but as the ground was dug up anyway we added it as it was very little extra cost - and other little touches like insulated roller doors added to the final price, but now that it's almost finished I'm quite happy with and feeling very guilty about the empty bank account.

I'm happy with it, it'll be warm and dry, the cars and tools won't rust every winter and once I get a few months pay back into the bank I'll look for a two-post lift - around £1100.

Anyway the purpose of this ramble is to say: go for bigger than you think you'll need - I started with plans for a 20 x 12 'store' for two cars and ended up with a 35 x 28 structure that will hold a few Triumphs in relative luxury. Yes, it went over budget, but if I'd cut corners I'd probably regret it later and it was a case of getting the work done while the builders were there with all the required machinery. Talk to a good builder - most will give free advice and a free quote - and they may think of things that you didn't, such as moving my garage back to give more parking at the front, even if it meant digging into a sloping garden and tanking the retaining wall to keep damp out. I've added a gallery of photos of the building work as it progressed and some photos of the shed at the old house and the new garage. 

I'd always go for block over steel for insulation if nothing else. I like the idea of a yard - you can park cars outside if you require more room indoors (if spraying for example) but even a new construction can quickly become cold and wet with the obvious detrimental effect to cars and your own joints - lying on a cold floor does nothing for the health.

 

 

 

[Dave C]

OK, Thanks Colin; now I've got serious garage envy 

[DrKai]

Colin that is incredible. Thanks for the suggestions folks. Meeting the people with the money this week so will get a better idea of where I'm at and realistic options.

Also these guys are local to me http://www.warwickgarages.co.uk/range.php?rangeid=13. I think they look great and 12x6 for 12000 seems great but by the time options are added and footings sorted getting close to brick and block in cost and issues with maintenance and insurance from fire. 

It really is a minefield 

[Clive]

When we bought our house (4 years ago, time flies) it lent itself to a garage at the back of the garden as it is a corner plot.

 

I was recommended a bricklayer, who came with labourer and recommended a groundworker (a decent digger driver)

 

The garden was on a slope, so I ended up having 10x 8 wheeler grab lorries of chalk dug out, and a retaining wall built to keep the uphill neighbours garden intact. 

 

However, my garage was a simple one. As big as allowed without planning or building regs, 30m2. And 2.5m high. This meant a flat roof, because it is up against a boundary. 

 

But costs are here, and apply to the garage only.

Digger/driver approx £200

Grab lorry £180 

Concrete footings approx £100 (.2x.2 and 26m length) plus labourer (£75) and me for a day

I day to lay blocks to edge the concrete slab (Labour £200, blocks approx £100 DPM £25)

Concrete slab, this was £100/cubic meter from mixamate, useful as they mix the exact quantity you want.

Brickwork, I managed to get a very good price on some brick "seconds" at about 25p each plus VAT. I used reclaimed UPVC door and windows from where we were doing work on the house itself. Took the bricky and labourer 2 weeks, maybe a little less, to build the walls etc. So about 2k labour there.

Roof, I chose, after much faffing, to use fibreglass and got the labourer to help. A day to put the joists/furring pieces up and board in 18mm OSB3 (don't use OSB2) then a day to do the fibreglass roof, that cost about £20 per metre and is bombproof.

 

Think the total cost was about £6k all in. An absolute bargain, and yes, the garage door came from the old garage at the front of the house (it was less than a year old) It is single skin construction, and soon after completion I had some rain penetration after a period of exceptional rain on the wall that gets all the weather. A coat of silicone waterproofer has prevented any re-occurance. There is no insulation at all, but it is well vented. No condensation whatsoever.

 

I would have liked larger, but it is designed to be a workshop for 1 car. I can get he spitfire in and open both doors,plus he back 2m or so has a block wall to create a workshop area with benches/vice and storage. And the size avoided delays and issues with planning, and they would have been issues with some of the people around here who seem terrified of a car that is older than 3 years. But they are accepting us and my odd hobby, many stopping to have a natter.

 

One last thing. My prices are 4 years out of date, so labour has gone up 30% at a guess, but then again I am in Brighton, which is notoriously expensive.

[68vitesse]

Had my garage doubled a good few years ago, it was twenty foot long brick construction already so just went sideways, pitch roof for storage, pit, and five meter I beam across with a rolling trolley for the chain hoist. I would always go for one big door instead of two smaller ones and a side door for easier access, no sink in garage but outside tap very close and a good electric supply.

Builder said it would have been easier from an empty plot than to extend existing, so go for bigger than you think you need.

 

Regards

 

Paul

[Paul H]

Hi recently added a single detached brick built garage with pitched roof - internal dimensions 6 metres By 3 metres - Up and over door fibre glass entrance with side entry stable door which means air flow is controllable plus our dog cant get in  - The loft area allows for storage of parts - Lighting is by 5ft LED fluorescent which are excellent as well as being economical  . The size is perfect for the Vitesse as doors can be opened and plenty of access - Cost in 2016 £15k  - I did line the garage walls & ceiling with 1" batons and 8mm ply - this controls the dust and shelving / tool storage is made easier - I purchased magnetic bars from Lidl and this keeps the tools that are being used off the floor - I also added narrow wooden shelving between the buttresses ( the shelf coming flush with buttress) this is great for oil , paint  etc its surprising how many cans you accumulate . There is plenty of room for my work bench across the back of the garage plus  room for shelving 

 

Hope this helps 

 

Paul 

[thescrapman]

I built myself a 40ft by 26ft garage 2 years ago.

 

Run out of space so building another the same size.

 

First was block and tiled roof, steel frame holding up roof so no rafters. 2 post lift to go in it.

 

Second will be a steel framed building, insulated roof panels and I will board the walls with insulation behind. This one will be all permitted development.

 

Best not to mention price.... :-)

[JohnD]

Allow twice as much space as one car will need, plus access space around it and at least half as much again for storage.  Room for two if you can, plus a seperate space for workshop, that can either be a dirty area - welding  grinding etc - or a clean room, for engine building.    Have a really strong wooden workbench put in, and face with alloy plate.    Better than any steel workbench.

 

Next to house makes services easier, if at garden bottom, telephone/intercom, so 'er indoors can call you in for dinner?

 

Controversy - draught-proof for warmth, or purposely draughty well-ventilated, to cut down on condensation.  I favour the latter.

 

Heating? Again, next to house allows a radiator in there.  Not just for softies, can reduce the condensation, but costly.  If you do, consider how the walls/roof are insulated.    Carpet on the floor is optional.

 

At least one RSJ (rolled steel joist) as a rafter, so you have no doubt that using it to lift engines, or whole cars for that matter, is safe.

 

Consider, if finance allows, a two- or four-post lift.   If not now, then build enough roof height to take one, and a floor constructed to be strong enough, especially for a two post.   Far better than a pit, which is the other option.

 

Consider if you want an air compressor.   Include an enclosure for it in the build - they are extremely noisy! Avoids neighbour irritation and deafness in the workshop - but ensure that the enclosure is well ventilated; compressors are air cooled, and need air circulation.  An extractor fan is useful, just for the enclosure.

 

Lighting - twice as many fluorescents as you think you'll need!

 

Security:   Door locks, door bolts, chain any tool boxes/cabinets to the wall - or built-in storage cupboard, and I mean built-in, not a wood frame.   Get a security company to install alarms on every door and window, plus movement alarms inside.    Any nice looking garage where work is done is a magnet for thieves.

 

John