Badwolf Posted August 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2018 'V quality' ?? Is that a type or is your tablet playing up again? Not something I have come across I think I have all threaded in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2018 Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 I cant get a chart up on this tablet but in the good old days there were RSTV bolt tensile grades https://www.workshopwarehouse.co.uk/news/understanding-the-grading-of-high-tensile-bolts/ Looks as though S is 8.8 in new money R has disapeared cant find T or V but reckon they are in the 10.9 region I have some with a gkn ref on others S with the three blade propellor marks They must be a bolt with shank not full threaded set screw the shank takes on some loading , threads will wreck the coupling holes if theres any movements, Part number 132023 3/8 unf or 129361 if 5/16" unf Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Ok now I understand. I'm not sure that they are even the original correct bolts. When the car was originally restored, the mechanic put all the nuts and bolts in a bucket without labling them. When he put the thing back together.. who knows. Since I started work again 2 years ago, I have been replacing nuts and bolts with new (on the whole). I may have a set on new ones somewhere as I remember buying several 'kits' of bolts for the body shell, engine etc. Some were used, some not. The UJ bolts look in poor condition, hence the question, but it looks like they may be going back on for the time being, until my next order for spares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Pete - The good news is that the bolts appear to be original and have the legend 'auto V' on the head. I assume that I can replace the lock nuts with new normal nuts and washers. Regarding the extention greaser nipple thingy, is there any danger that it will get broken off. There is a little concern about them on other sites and some recommend fitting, greasing and replacing the extention nipple with a small cut down bolt to cap the hole. Any experience with these breaking anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted August 10, 2018 Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Replace the nylocs with new nylocs, no washers, and do them up proper tight by locking two spanners together for leverage. Torque should be transmitted by the clamped friction between the flange surfaces, not the bolt shanks (threaded or not)! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2018 Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 club shop UJ come with a blanking grub screw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Thanks gents. All information is gratefully received. No grub screw on these UJ's from P*dd*cks. Will I be ok cutting down a suitable sized bolt and cutting a screwdriver slot in the end to make a grub screw or is that asking for trouble? One UJ done, not without problems. Firstly did the 'little round bit', went on no problems despite my worries about the bearing cups going on straight. Easy this...!!! The third cup went on no problem, then the forth. Tried to fit the cir-clips... and you experienced peoples know exactly what is coming next... the cup won't go in far enough to get the last cir-clip on!! Thinks... this has all the hall marks of a needle bearing lying at the bottom of the cup. Carefully... oh so carefully.. pressed out the cups and across the bottom of one, two of the little b*ggers. Replaced them, put a little extra grease in and put both in the freezer for 20minutes (I had, previously chilled the bearing cups <read that somewhere> to stiffen up the grease, but, it's still very warm in the garage). I also cleaned up the inside of the yoke bits and lightly greased that. Tried again, straight on no problem. Ready to re-assemble now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Next problem... I have got the rubber bush out of the leaf spring and cannot get the new one in. I have removed the inner metal tube and got rid of the rubber. There is now a larger ring within the spring eye. I cannot get the new rubber through it, with or without the inner tube that came with the replacement. Do I take out (somehow) the 'outer tube/ring or is there some technical way of pressing the new bush in that I cannot figure out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 10, 2018 Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 33 minutes ago, Badwolf said: Next problem... I have got the rubber bush out of the leaf spring and cannot get the new one in. I have removed the inner metal tube and got rid of the rubber. There is now a larger ring within the spring eye. I cannot get the new rubber through it, with or without the inner tube that came with the replacement. Do I take out (somehow) the 'outer tube/ring or is there some technical way of pressing the new bush in that I cannot figure out? There is an outer metal tube which needs to be removed using an appropriate socket Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Thanks Paul - OK. I have just been looking at the parts list on Rimmers and the spring doesn't show the 'outer' ring. I have found, would you believe, 6 standard replacement rubbers in my spares box and they are 3mm(ish) less in diameter than the polybush blues that Rimmers supplied me with. Job for after tea I think. Getting the rubber out was bad enough but I thought it would be worth it while the drive shaft was off... I was wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2018 Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Its very common guys try to fit bushes amd fail as the old metalastic has removed leaving its outer tube in the spring eye If you cant get a socket to fit and punch it out simple cut through the tube with a hacksaw and once its split it pops out easily Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Thanks for all the words of wisdom. Pete.. dead right. I fought me all the way. Wouldn't press out, three hack saws, big, junior and the type that takes a blade for using as a pad saw. Finally weakened it enough to press out. I can see why people give up or say 'don't do it'. The new one has gone in and now ready to fit the drive shaft tomorrow. I just hope it is all worthwhile. Especially the polybushes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 10, 2018 Report Share Posted August 10, 2018 Its a classic fhey do this , don't forget they sit out there and listen just waiting to get you Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Still only 3 wheels at the moment, but the offside is back together. Started on the near side, wheel off... what, not again!!!! Another leaf spring strap bolt is loose. I just dont beleive the quality of this!!! Anyway things are going well except that I shock absorbers are a total mismatch. One is blue with Lockhead stamped on it, the other is black.. no maker. I think I need new ones. There was a discussion a few weeks ago here about the best 'road' shockers, but I can't find it. I think that Gaz came out best. Help again folks, if you don't mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 If you just want ok road normal use avoid adjustables very expensive and you have no clues about the settings I was always messing about , gaz on front spax on back . Stated with gaz at the back but the bushes were clearance hopeless Kyb did good std , avoid cheap black ones have a poor reputaion , stick to mid priced Clive had some good clues Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Thanks for the 'lead' Pete. Did a search on kyb and foundcthe thread I was looking for. The KYBs look like the way to go for what I need. Incidently, the black shock is actually red under a coat of black and 'clicks' when it is turned upside down. Is this normal? Will the Lockheed be an original 40 year old model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 12, 2018 Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 pass !!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2018 Job done, apart from bleeding the brakes which Lady BW will assist with tomorrow. It has taken forever, considering there were only 14 nuts and bolts to deal with. I do understand why Doug had to move his vice to press out some of the rubbers to convert to polybush and also why Colin burned his out. I will find out tomorrow if I have solved the clunk from the back end and if the ride is any smoother. New shocks are on my Christmas list, but should be easier to fit now everything has been reassembled with copperslip on the bolt threads So after a frustrating day, I go to the computer to find out that Microsoft have found me. A friendly spash screen greeted me to say that I had been updated to the April Windows 10 update. Nothing works properly!! I didn't want it then (see separate thread) and I don't want it now. Desktop PC rolling back to previous version as I type. I know it will get me in time but I will put it off as long as I can!! The end to a perfect day. However, as normal, a huge thank you to all of you who have contributed with answers to my questions. Without your help and input, I could not have done it. The power of this forum to help people like me is overwhelming. BW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Took her out for a run yesterday. The clunk from the back has gone.. result!!! Stuck in a traffic jam due to accident and temp starts to rise. Is it better to turn off the engine, fan stops no water circulation, but engine not producing heat or let the engine idle and risk temp going too high. I did know the answer years ago but forgotten. Oh and by the way, heater now not working again, tried the old heater trick to cool water down but all I got was cool air. Next job on the list, matrix flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 When my Stag was temporarily without a fan, I had just that dilemma at some traffic lights. I opted for stopping the engine. That turned out to be a mistake as it got so hot with no water circulation that it wouldn't turn over when I tried to start it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Temperature always goes up when you turn off all the residual heat in the block soaks into the non circulating coolant amd up goes the gauge readings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 Pete - So which, in your experience, is the best course of action in stationery traffic. Turn it off or leave it idling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 14, 2018 Report Share Posted August 14, 2018 If theres a choice let it idle down the temperature then switch off but an engine driven faned air under the bonnet save a multitude of hot running problems Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted August 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 Thanks Pete. Here's one for the electronics experts. In my Spit I have a 'vintage' Moss alarm system. I have only one remote key fob. Replacements cost a fortune and it would be cheaper to replace the complete system. Now old fobs are currently available on fleabay for about £8.00. Is it possible to retune these to match mine. The fob has a rotary 'trimmer' inside but I don't know if it will actually retune the fob, or whether it will need a new chip installing, in which case, forget it. Any thoughts electroexperts!!?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 15, 2018 Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 no idea last one i saw was in a renault magnum where a moss alarm had been tailored to operate two relays which reversed the electronic impulse generator cable to the Tachograph, brought in to me from the police , it was simple stop truck switch to rest mode hit the moss button and drive off , had also been getting warranty claims for poor fuel consumption when it was actually running 12hours with no mileage recording so i have a avid hate of them from those days , after this they introduced the armoured cable to stop interference , now its all digital so moss just relates to the Mrs and her blasted hanging baskets and she wont reprogram at all pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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