Colin Lindsay Posted March 22, 2020 Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 I don't have tinted windows, but have to talk about something, so ICE seemed logical. 'Er indoors has factory-tinted rear windows in her Freelander, I think heavily tinted glass all round is illegal but all it does is leave the rear of the vehicle very dark and if you look in the rear view mirror you think it's night time... not my thing but she likes them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted March 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 Colin - You are correct about the all round tinting. It appears to be in most modern models these days and I wondered what the forum contributors views were. I agree with you ln this and am not keen on it. I feel the car looks unfinished somehow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 22, 2020 Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 My Triumph has Sundym glass, windscreen as well I think, at the time it was the most you could get away with. I can't see the difference, I can only tell because it's written on it in a corner, somewhere. Modern Sundym are electric! Turn a switch and you go from transparent to midnight. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted March 22, 2020 Report Share Posted March 22, 2020 Mrs B’s Citroen C3 Picasso has a light tint all round, including the full length glass sun roof, rather than privacy glass on the rear, and looks all the better for it. Yes it probably does get a little warmer as a result, but then it does have fully automatic dual zone climate control, which soon deals with that. In the late 90s I used to work with a guy who had a Renault 5 Turbo which was fully pimped, with tinted glass all round. He could never understand why he was constantly being stopped by the Police for random searches, until myself and my colleagues explained that it had a lot to do with his car looking that of a low level drug dealer! Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2020 For those of you who might have followed this thread, you may remember that a long, long, time ago, I was looking for a pair of KYB rear shocks for my MKIV. Last year I gave up and put on a pair of Munroes (which lead to the story of the leaf spring, also detailed earlier). Not ideal but OK for my use, as I was told that there were no KYBs anywhere in Europe. In addition, when they were actually shipped only about 6 pairs a year came in. I was astounded the other day, at this time of lock down, when a pair was delivered, that, would you believe, I had back ordered and forgotten about. Amazing, now do I fit them, or hang them on the garage wall to admire this rare item? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 21 hours ago, Badwolf said: Amazing, now do I fit them, or hang them on the garage wall to admire this rare item? Get them fitted and feel the benefit! 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 Going back along way in this thread, I mentioned that the connector plate at the base of my gear stick was badly worn due to it being refitted without the nylon washers etc, and was, even with the correct refurb kit getting very sloppy and was in danger of failing entirely. I have seen this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-SPITFIRE-IV-OVERDRIVE-GEAR-STICK-LEVER-SHIFT-SHIFTER-GEARSTICK/392736929277?redirect=mobile ..on fleabay and wondered was it the correct gear stick for a MKIV Spitfire (1972) with overdrive and what is a realistic price for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 have canley got one in their used clearance . i dont see the £99 as anything but a rip off will have alook i may have one Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 18 minutes ago, Badwolf said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-GT6-SPITFIRE-IV-OVERDRIVE-GEAR-STICK-LEVER-SHIFT-SHIFTER-GEARSTICK/392736929277?redirect=mobile ..on fleabay and wondered was it the correct gear stick for a MKIV Spitfire (1972) with overdrive and what is a realistic price for it. That's one's for overdrive, you can see the hole in the shaft, but it's very expensive. Probably quite rare. I wonder how difficult it would be to drill a non-overdrive version, which are usually more common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 If you're not worried about originality, you could use a non-OD gear-stick and a roundtail style column stalk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 4, 2020 Report Share Posted April 4, 2020 I've successfully drilled a standard Spit Mk2 gearstick, it took time and patience, The hardest bit was drilling the lower access hole and rounding the internal intersection point to remove any sharp edges. I ended longitudinally slotting (5/16in) this lower access to get room to round the intersection point. It needs very fine wire I used radio speaker cable. Seems strong enough, no signs of breakage. I did it with a Dewalt battery drill and std high speed drills, which I held in the chuck with only 1/4in grip to maximise the penetration. Peter T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Thanks gents. I thought that it was expensive. I would prefer to keep the originality of the gear stick if possible. I had even thought of trying to get a welder to rebuild the bottom section with weld, grind it to shape and redrill it. Maybe someone can advise me if the weld metal might be strong enough. Before anyone asks, no, I don't thnk that it will glue!! Pete, if you can find one in your stock will you PM me please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 sorry got all the remote and rods /od cam etc but NO Gear Levers will keeps ears open Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 have you tried mike papworth or any of the quiller/graveyard places ??? Im sure weld will rework it it might be worn by misadventure but it doesnt take a lot of real loading Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Ok thanks. No, I haven't tried anywhere else. I had just spotted that one on fleabay and wondered about the price. At the price asked, I'm sure that I can get a decent welding job done and rework to suit. As a matter of interest, what would be a reasonable price for a good used one? As I mentioned well back in this thread, the damage was done at the time of the original rebuild, when the gear stick linkage was put together with a nut and bolt with no washers/shims etc, not by me I hasten to add. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 well if i had one................. it would be less than £99 and would include a roll of loo paper too . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 I think I will wait for the winter months and take the gear lever to a local welder to have the link section rebuilt and then profile it carefully and refit. I just hope that it lasts out this (what is now a very short) season. I will probably replace the tunnel cover, carpet and interior at the same time. Some of Park Lane Classic's leather trim, to match the seat covers would be nice but I really must get on with the paintwork. I have no excuses at the moment except inertia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2020 After a very long period of time, I have picked up the pieces of refurbishing my steel bonnet. I have started to re-assemble the support tubing and have found two plates which don't appear to have a home..... I have painted one of them and added some closed cell insulation tape on one side as a sort of washer. the other is in dreadful condition as you can see and, in its past has had two bolts welded to form captive nuts. They are very similar to the tube support backing plates (part no 607711) but are slightly larger. I cannot find these plates anywhere in the BL parts, P*ddocks, R*mmers, or C*nleys lists. Can any of you learned gents throw any light on them or should I just bin them!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 Unless they fit somewhere on the bonnet that I don't know about, I'd guess they go on the boot floor, but maybe your Spitfire is too late for what I'm thinking of - rear overrider reinforcement panel brackets? My GT6 has two of them which hold the rear overriders on - part number 29 in the attached diagram. What's throwing me is that later cars don't have rear overriders, unless they're used for the rear bumper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted June 20, 2020 Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 I'm pretty sure that part is only applicable to Mk1/2 Spitfires and Mk1 GT6. Even the Mk3 Spitfire / Mk2 GT6 moved the bumper iron (27 or its equivalent) inside the boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2020 **SORTED** The 'original' steel plate repair, unlike the new (R*mmers) repair plate, had no captive nuts. These two small plates were used as backing plates to hold the front of the bonnet tubes and the saddle clips together. I have no idea where they came from but problem solved. Thanks gents, for your help and advice. On we go with re-assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Right. So after all the distractions of life the work on the bonnet picks up again. For those of you who have been following the adhesives saga, I have had the great fortune to come across the new Kent 2K panel bond. This is a very expensive product but is Thatcham approved for repairs and also has the addition of micro glass beads (.25mm) to prevent all the adhesive being squeezed out when the joint is clamped up, thus weakening the bond, I will try my standard tests over the weekend and report back. This will be the last test before I take the plunge and actually do it... at long last. It has probably taken me so long to do the job, because I am scared to death of doing it wrong, especially in view of all the wrong doings that have happened to this poor car, which have not been done by me!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Work on the bonnet is proceeding slowly but well. I am almost ready to post my final, yes really final adhesive test results (yes, I know, 'til the next time). I have trial fitted everything and tried to ensure that everything lines up, despite the 'restoration work' done 30 years ago which I have already outlined. I am almost ready for the final assembly which leads to a question.... The parts diagrams show that most of the bonnet support tube nuts have both spring and flat washers. I know that some of you don't rate spring washers or nylock nuts for that matter, so... do you feel that I should stick 'by the book', or follow current trends, whatever they are? Over to you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 the best are washer faces nuts but no idea if unf are available as nuts with a crimped on running washer these type Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted July 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Thanks Pete. Looks like just standard washers then. I have both flat and spring and remembered what you said about this stuff when I did the leaf spring, so Is thought that I would check. Its all back together on a trial basis and looks much better than it was. Much more rigid even though the plates are only held on with self tapers at the moment. Photos to come later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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