ahebron Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 Hello. What are the options for steering column joints for the small chassis Triumphs. I was given a brand new gold coloured one for my Vitesse but it just to tight to fit on the column. Is there another one from a different Triumph or other brand of car that can be used. Thanks' Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 Are you referring to the bottom semi-flex coupling that attaches the column to the rack? If so, I think it's the same part across most of the range. Certainly I couldn't see any difference between the Toledo one and the Spitfire. Rimmers seem to list the same part number, too (although marked NLA and with a UJ replacement alternative). As an alternative, I did a write up of refurbishing your existing one. It's not that hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted May 12, 2018 Report Share Posted May 12, 2018 You may need to clean the splines on the rack and shaft with a wire bush, plus open out the clamp section by a small amount. Ensure you line up the clamping bolt with the flat section of the shaft. On the rack there is a dipped section in the splines, ensure the clamping bolt lines up with this. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 13, 2018 Report Share Posted May 13, 2018 Canley and james paddock ist the improved as FAM 1718 As its hidden under the turret the lower bolt is sometimes easier done up from underneath the car with a long extension Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 Before I order a new Flexible coupling from Rimmers, has anyone used one of these replacement joints - the original being listed as N/A, or can anyone recommend the best option. Ive learnt that some aftermarket parts can be a bit dodgy. Also, I've looked at the link above on how to strip down existing one but I dont know where the free play develops or if it can be remedied other than with a replacement unit. I can see that all remaining play is in this joint, now that Ive fitted new rack and track rod ends. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 You can re bush the original quite easily or go for the universal joint type, If you have a tubular exhaust it can make the gap a bit tight , we had one on my vit6 witha 631 and space is very limited Or the bigger joint can foul the turret or the shaft contacts the primery tubes With a cast exhaust its a simple swap, as I said the lower clamp bolt is best done up from underneath The uj does have a firmer feed back than the orig disc and bush arrangement ,, with a uj you dont need the bridging earth strap Just make sure the rack is earthed Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 Thanks very much Pete. I'll order the UJ, then perhaps look at taking the old one apart anyway and refurb it for interest/future use. Standard exhaust manifold so no worries there. Interestingly it has no earth bridge either on the old type joint nor did it have the usual earth wire on the rack - perhaps thats why the horn very occasional sounds when cornering!!!. I now have a new rack but I guess that is now earthed anyway as I have solid alloy mounts. I guess with the alloy mounts, a new UJ and it has a wood rimmed wheel, I might notice a bit more vibration to the hands, but ok presently. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 9, 2019 Report Share Posted January 9, 2019 The play develops entirely in the little rubber bushes. Chris Witor sells polybush replacements. However, you really want one of the joints where the bolts are wired not been "squished" to stop them coming undone. The bolts are (possibly) unique and shouldered, so don't damage them or lose any of the washers and so on. The shoulders are sized to give the correct tension on the bushes. I refurbed one as above, and used it successfully for about 40k, and forgot to pinch it off my herald estate when I sold it. I am using the solid UJ types and find them great, but worth doing a bit of research as I have seen some that look poorly made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 I can confirm that the bolts are really nasty small headed shouldered things made of unobtainium.... as clive rightly says the correct candidate for a rebuild is one with the bolts wired not splayed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 20 minutes ago, yorkshire_spam said: I can confirm that the bolts are really nasty small headed shouldered things made of unobtainium.... as clive rightly says the correct candidate for a rebuild is one with the bolts wired not splayed! I reckon it "may" be possible to replicate the shouldered section using tube, but that may need to be turned down to diameter in a lathe. Easiest is to buy a knackered wired type, should be cheap. I suppose it may be possible to hacksaw off the splayed ends, undo the bolts. Rebuild and reassemble, using loctite AND punching the ends of the bolts around the edge, that wouldn't come undone ever again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted January 10, 2019 Report Share Posted January 10, 2019 Proper UJ is nicer IMO. Forged version slightly more compact. There’s always a bit of slop left in the rubber coupling version. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Ive always replaced them with a proper uj, , rebuild with tube may work but a shoulder bolt is nipped up so there is no slop between bolt and hole, a tube may not be as stable ?? and the two halves have different size holes to accomodate the shoulder reduced diameter, so std bolt would not work Could make a nice idea into more slop than you started with I reckon its polybush with orig bolts or a ......new UJ Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Hi. What is the proper/New UJ, as compared to original, please?. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 orig but most will have shoulder bolts and wired heads to lock them, this is a more modern incarnation of the old design modern uj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 Thanks Pete. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 I tried the old UJ version as sold by Bill Davies and binned it very quickly due to the vibrations coming up the steering column. Personal choice, but I didn't like it at all. If you're buying one of the replacements, the FAM 1718 parts, check around as there's almost £20 difference between sellers, and similarly with the UJ version - they sell for £19.95 on eBay, so don't pay up to £40 for essentially the same item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Thanks for everyone's help so far. I think I've answered my own question about aftermarket replacements, got the steering in bits and find that the replacement UJ will go on the splined shafts, but although the clamp bolts will go through one side and through the resessed grove in the splines, it won't line up with the other clamp hole. Ok off the car, but on measuring and comparing, the clamp holes are about 2mm nearer the shaft than on the old one. Tried gently hammering and screwing of the bolt but worried I'll wreck the threads. The UJ looks identical to Pete's photo above, and both the column splines and the pinion splines have a complete grove around them, rather than a flat, so you don't have to line things up other than with the grove- if that mskes sense. I could get slightly small bolts, or drill the UJ holes a bit but don't like to mess with the integrity of something so critical. I reckon its find a better UJ ( it doesnt look that good and its splines are poor) or get the Chris Wittor poly bushes as my old coupling is the wired bolt type. Yes its the rubber bushes that have squashed and degraded. See pics I have growing list of aftermarket parts that didnt fit and were designed wrong. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 you can move the inner column undo the slip clamp ( just below the outer tube ) and the mid section can be placed where you like read manual on retightening the slip joint its easy enough just not to be done up by a gorilla. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 You actually need a curved bolt; I have one fitted to my own column joint and it lines up perfectly where a straight one won't. No idea where it originally came from but I always reuse it with a new nyloc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 Hi Pete, I probably didn't explain very well. I've undone the slip joint and everything is free to move and align correctly. The problem is that the clamp bolt goes through one hole in the UJ clamp, correctly through the grove in the splines but won't align with the other hole. The bolt is going through at an angle because the holes in the replacemnt UJ are about 2-3mm too close the splined bit. Thanks for advice on doing up the slip joint. I guess you tighten the 2 bolts, undo the locknut a bit then tighten the allen screw - manual says about 20 lb/ft, then the locknut. I guess its a bit tricky judging the torque working under there! I've found suppliers of the poly bushes to refurb the old coupling, so I aim to send UJ back and refurb the old one, unless someone can recommend a UJ that they have used and know it works. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 3 minutes ago, Dave the tram said: Hi Pete, I probably didn't explain very well. I've undone the slip joint and everything is free to move and align correctly. The problem is that the clamp bolt goes through one hole in the UJ clamp, correctly through the grove in the splines but won't align with the other hole. The bolt is going through at an angle because the holes in the replacemnt UJ are about 2-3mm too close the splined bit. Thanks for advice on doing up the slip joint. I guess you tighten the 2 bolts, undo the locknut a bit then tighten the allen screw - manual says about 20 lb/ft, then the locknut. I guess its a bit tricky judging the torque working under there! I've found suppliers of the poly bushes to refurb the old coupling, so I aim to send UJ back and refurb the old one, unless someone can recommend a UJ that they have used and know it works. Cheers Dave Hi Dave , could you supply the link for the poly bushes for the steering coupling Thanks Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 3 hours ago, Dave the tram said: I reckon its find a better UJ ( it doesnt look that good and its splines are poor) or get the Chris Wittor poly bushes as my old coupling is the wired bolt type. Yes its the rubber bushes that have squashed and degraded. See pics Your original looks eminently refurbishable. I'd go with the poly bush option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF375-1179K Thisnisnthe chris witor superflex site Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 12, 2019 Report Share Posted January 12, 2019 9 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF375-1179K Thisnisnthe chris witor superflex site Pete Thanks Pete Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted January 13, 2019 Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Came up as out of stock on that link but just ordered same from James Paddock. £14.95 plus vat and postage http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/steering-column-joint-washer-set-polyurethane-2 Will start carefully didmantling and cleaning. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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