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Hello from Paula and her Vitesse


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It'll lift off. Put the gears in neutral first, it helps with refitting. 

Once you've the remote off (do you have a repair kit yet?) the kit becomes self-explanatory as to where everything goes; if on any doubt take photos first. It's very straightforward and really improves the gearchange.

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2 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

It'll lift off. Put the gears in neutral first, it helps with refitting. 

Once you've the remote off (do you have a repair kit yet?) the kit becomes self-explanatory as to where everything goes; if on any doubt take photos first. It's very straightforward and really improves the gearchange.

I'll order a kit now. Seems to be about £15.

Lovely.

Thanks again everyone! 

 

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there are odd parts in the kit to suit the years of evolution so some bushes are a variety ,   when its off  you will see what you need or ask here,

the bolt that joins the two rods is not easy to get a spanner on , undo the bolt thro the gear stick and the rod rotates more to help

you wont need the 0 rings seals   they fit in a groove inside the front housing the short shaft with the selector on , leave that well alone 

do check the spherical cup for the razor edged holes ... can be  truly awful 

we await tomorrows  news edition

tip while the tops off its easy to top up the oil 

Pete

 

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there are two locations 

early had a brkt  like the OD inhibitor but opposite side  has a similar switch operated by a cam on the front of the remote

later switch was screwed into hole in the top cover ( under the remote) and actuated by the wards in the gearbox    ( a ward being the bit the remote prods to move a fork )

with the remote off you will see 3 inside    ( cant remember if a ward or the rev fork do the switch)  but if no hole / plug to remove you need a later top or a front bracket (rare)

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-mkii-gear-shift-mechanism/      cam  item 27

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-top-cover-extension-and-hand-lever-assembly    later and most 4 synchro

later brkt.   https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-top-cover-extension-and-hand-lever-assembly

Pete

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3 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

there are two locations 

early had a brkt  like the OD inhibitor but opposite side  has a similar switch operated by a cam on the front of the remote

later switch was screwed into hole in the top cover ( under the remote) and actuated by the wards in the gearbox    ( a ward being the bit the remote prods to move a fork )

with the remote off you will see 3 inside    ( cant remember if a ward or the rev fork do the switch)  but if no hole / plug to remove you need a later top or a front bracket (rare)

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-vitesse-mkii-gear-shift-mechanism/      cam  item 27

https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-top-cover-extension-and-hand-lever-assembly    later and most 4 synchro

later brkt.   https://www.canleyclassics.com/triumph-gt6-mkiii-top-cover-extension-and-hand-lever-assembly

Pete

It looks like I could get a switch like the OD inhibitor (just learned that) and make a little bracket for it on the other side. There is a sticky out bit looking for something to interfere with.
Getting big ideas now.

One thing at a time maybe

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The reason the remote doesn’t lift straight off is that there are two little dowels, one each side, midway between the bolts. So a little wiggling while pulling up ways should do it.  Dowels usually stay in the bottom half - but something else to keep an eye on.

Good luck with the rebuild kit....... I had two to hand when rebuilding my GT6 remote, and I’ve still got most of them having re-used original parts and random objects from the workshop collection in preference to the tat provided! 
 

Nick

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17 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:

The bolt at the bottom of the gear lever if fitted the wrong way around can cause problems selecting reverse.

Regards

Paul

Excellent spot.

ill pull it all off and take many photos.

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That's an excellent job - well done!

Those loose linkages won't have helped the gearshift so you'll find a massive improvement once the kit is fitted. Remember that the bolt points downwards with the nut on the bottom; I have in the past inadvertently fitted it back to front then had to dismantle again.

 

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when you get it stripped out let us know ,if the middle pivot has the rubbery bush its a light squeeze fit in the rod , all shim washers go between fork ends and bushes none on the outside

the hardest is if the main spherical  ball needs replacing is getting the tight circlip off the stick its a bit of a sod 

this holds the reverse push down spring there is no end of clip to ping off , just lots of faf with small screwdrivers and pliers and elastoplast 

pete

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2 hours ago, NonMember said:

Top notch rattle canning there!

And yes, that bit of the linkage will have been causing big problems but the rest of it looks well worn and the grey spherical bit is on the verge of failing completely. Definitely a good time to re-bush it all.

Hopefully the postman will have my kit tomorrow.

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

when you get it stripped out let us know ,if the middle pivot has the rubbery bush its a light squeeze fit in the rod , all shim washers go between fork ends and bushes none on the outside

the hardest is if the main spherical  ball needs replacing is getting the tight circlip off the stick its a bit of a sod 

this holds the reverse push down spring there is no end of clip to ping off , just lots of faf with small screwdrivers and pliers and elastoplast 

pete

Looking forward to it! I'll make tea and take my time. i might even polish the case up!

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