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Any tricks getting fuel up to carb?


pirate

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My 13/60 herald has been stood for a while, distributor packed up, fitted a new one today and got full spark.

my issue at the moment is getting fuel up to the carb, not sure how much fuel is in the tank and probably gone stale anyway, will get a couple of gallon.

I remember last time it was stood it was a bigger to get fuel up, but was ok once I did.

any tips/ tricks you guys use to get fuel to the carb?

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Does the pump have a priming lever under the pump body? (originals tend to, but not repro ones).

You may be able to put some fuel in a washing-up-liquid bottle or similar, and disconnect a rubber pipe, then squirt fuel into the carb that way. A bit squirted into the carb throat helps too (not much)

OR if you have a pump that uses rubber hose connections, squirting into the inlet may do the trick, fill the pump to get things started. (a clean oilcan of petrol may be best?)

Or again disconnect there, and blow on the fuel tank filler to get fuel into the pipes.

 

Just ideas, never tried them except petrol into the carb.

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Thanks for the replies it does have a prime lever on the fuel pump, I've been using it and turning the engine over between.

That fuel pump bubble is a good idea! I remember having one of those on an outboard boat engine.

As said I will put more fuel in and try again.

cheers.

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If the priming lever doesn't do the trick then you need to investigate why. You should get a definite flow of fuel (you can usually hear it) within three strokes and the carb should be pretty much full within a dozen. If you're not getting that, the likely reasons are:

- tank is empty

- feed from tank is blocked

- feed from tank has a hole (my Vitesse suffered a problem a few years back because a mouse had eaten through the rubber hose from the reserve tap)

- pipe to carbs is blocked

- pump has a failed valve or diaphragm

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The short hose from the reserve tap /supply tube is a common place to be ignored , if not mouse attacked it can be hard  and loose so you Suck air and priming is a long exercise, amd causes involuntary stops when fuel, demand is high 

If you take the supply off at the carb you should get a well defined squirt with each stroke of the primer

Do make sure the pump is on the back of its cam lobe , as if held down stroke thenprimer wont work,

If unsure give the engine half a turn and retry

 

Pete

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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

The short hose from the reserve tap /supply tube is a common place to be ignored , if not mouse attacked it can be hard  and loose so you Suck air and priming is a long exercise, amd causes involuntary stops when fuel, demand is high 

 

 

Pete

I have a T shirt for this. Trouble-shooting a friends herald, took me a while to suss it. Then a 30 second fix.

That one was bad, in town it would cut out even when idling, then be OK again for a day or 2. 

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Try attaching a section of an inner tube to the petrol filler and blow - if you have air leaks you will soon see them  . In my case the clip holding the pipe section from the tank was loose and on blowing fuel was evident  petrol-tank-air-lock.thumb.jpg.f996aa0491b01fd2c815ffec5a3309ec.jpg

Paul 

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Nope, Waitrose clientele don't admit to mechanical skills, they have people for that sort of thing. I did take the top off my gear box in a Tesco car park once. Stuck in gear. Disengaged with a big screwdriver, put it in second and drove home. Tesco punters unconcerned. You couldn't do that in Waitrose, you'd be asked to leave.

Doug

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There's a sign up in Waitrose now saying: "To improve your shopping experience we have installed video cameras in the car park"

And in tiny print: "Parking time limit 2 hours £70 fine if you exceed this."  Yes, that will really improve my shopping experience. :blink:

They've sacked the old codger who patrolled the car park, I once asked him how many tickets he'd issue, one in 2 years apparently! :lol:

So you can breakdown in Waitrose, but it'll cost you £70. Tow truck will be cheaper.

Doug

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I park in my local LIDL and use the cafe opposite, then sneak back to the car and pretend I've just come out of the supermarket.

BTW if trying the suck method for fuel, beware, it lingers for ages. I've just bled a central-heating boiler and despite two coffees and a mouth full of Wrigglys I can still taste the oil.

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My daughter once got a ticket from a retail park in Reading. She was seen leaving the car park on foot heading for other shops not on the retail park. Not allowed apparently. They still write. On the 5th anniversary of the first ticket "We're taking you to court, we are, we really are. were gonna do it this time"

db

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I have a similar problem getting fuel up to the carbs from the pump using the manual priming lever after a period of non-use.  It is a new pump and there is no pressure feel when manually priming unlike the old pump on which I could feel the pressure and hear the fuel going into the carbs.  Pump was only replaced as a precaution following an engine bay fire.  Engine starts OK after much churning of the starter and then runs faultlessly so pump lever is presumably installed on correct part of the cam.

Is the new pump likely to be faulty or is there another way of maintaining fuel in the line from pump to carbs which, incidentally, contains a Malpassi pressure regulator to restrict pump output to around 3 psi ?

The engine is a Vitesse Mk2 in a Gentry and no fuel leaks are apparent (one fire was enough!)

Terry

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My fuel line has slow drain back and I have to prime the pump after a lay off.  Difficult to tell what's going on from the feel of the primer lever, but I have a fuel filter just before the pump and I can see what's going on. A fuel filter's not just for filtering fuel!

Doug

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Going electric is the best way to get it primed on 'switch on,'

All pumpsnwith a primer lever only pull the diaphragm down against its spring, the spring produces the pressure 

If lever has followed the cam and the lobe holds the diaphragm  down ready for its sprung up stroke the prime lever  just wont do anything

As the thing is already as low as it should go ,  

Not all lack of starting is pump related it can be the lack of enriched choked mixture and the manifold needs lots of cranking to get a charge into the combustion chamber  

This caused lots of starting problems when emmission controls of the 70s 80s  leaned off the  Hc and Co 

Pete

 

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Thanks for your replies.  I have considered a one way valve but would regard that as a last resort.  I have just tried the primer lever again and it really feels as if it is not connected to anything which is why I thought perhaps the pump is faulty.  I too have a filter before the pump but unfortunately it is hidden away below the brake servo so not very visible when using the lever (remember this is a Gentry).

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Try a test  but needs pump removing to see whats happening.

Engines generally  stop in the same place so pump lever can often always be on cam , you need to turn the crank so its off it to make the primer work 

With it off the car without any fuel you should  hear the suck and blow when using the primer 

With a fuel supply a good  defined squirt  not a weak dribble 

Pete

 

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Pete

Pump now removed and appears to function OK.  Looks like you are correct that the pump lever is on top of the cam so priming lever will not operate.  Is the pump operating lobe on the camshaft a single lobe cam and how far should I turn the crankshaft to get the lever off the top of the cam please?

Terry

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