Windscreen fitting

[Pete Lewis]

run the cord round the flip and overlap along the bottom  tape the  cord ends to the glass . load the gless and seal assembled into the apperture  sitting first on the bottom flange and that lets the top protrude in the air 

have your happy helper press the screen to keep in place and you work the cords along the base , pull both to get the flip over the flange 

 a decent sock or glove filled with sand makes a nice soft whacker   give the glass some whack to keep it in the apperture ,dont let it rise 

work the cprds around the sides then across the top  keep bedding the glass into the apperture  when its in check the outer flip has fully opened to meet the frame

seal with a blasta gun and cartridge of gutter sealant   seal under the outer flip and also th glass channel 

white spirit cleans off any excess

then add the milar locking strip after all is well 

bit of soft soap is a good lubricant and dries off after.

if you have a stainless seal cover these dont act as a locking idea but fitting can be a right swine  if they have the C section fitting 

Pete

[Pettifordo]

So no sealant (the gutter stuff) until the screen is in ?

[Pete Lewis]

thats my suggestion a stiff knozzle will open the seal up to squirt some in quite easily

on sealing trials on trucks we did a lot of seal first but its messy to handle and the sealer often got displaced 

later we made a dry seal with drain slots  based on if you cant stop the leaks let it out   that worked well fro years 

and to run the cord round the flip use a clean cartridge knozzle  to run the cord thro' and makes the feed into the groove very easy

just run it round let the cord feed in through the knozzle 

Pete

 

[Alex Lowe]

So iv spent the last few weekends trying to get this windscreen fitted into the MK3 GT6 even had a specialist come assist yesterday and this is still the best we could do edges and sides pealed over any suggestions on how to resolve this with the screen still in place or does it have to come back out? He was trying to say the glass was to big for the hole  and the seal wasn’t very good. but not sure how much I buy that. 

[Steve P]

Seal may well be rubbish as a lot of the modern repros are, last one i did some years ago on my Vitesse,  I put it in the oven to soften it first.

Steve

[Clive]

Best screen seals are from COH Baines, but they supply some of the trade. But as Steve says, some seals are just wrong and will never fit well. 

Oven is brave, I though the tumble drier was the best way of warming seals up.

[Alex Lowe]

Would I be able to get any better results trying to use a heat gun now it’s in to ease it in a bit more? Preferably I’d rather not have to start from scratch the blisters on my hands have had enough 😂

[NonMember]

Beware use of heat gun near any glass! Localised heating puts a lot of stress in there and can crack (or shatter) your windscreen.

[Pete Lewis]

nothing more than a bucket of hot water 

get it too hot and it will stay wonky 

have you given the glass a good soft whack ( sock filled with shot or ssand)  to bedd the whole into the aperture

shy corners can be pushed out using a slice bit of screen wash tube in the corners ( but needs screen out to add that bodge for a duff seal 

+1 for co bains  they are the best 

Pete

[Alex Lowe]

I shall have to give the sock filled with shot. I’m guessing by that you mean lead shot? As I am really not keen to take it back out. I did get the seal from T D Fitchets who are normally ace when it comes to spares 

[Pete Lewis]

yes lead shot or sharp sand  fine sand can esacpe the sock and it then gets in the sealing slot /flip  and clogs up sealing 

in the days of production we had a 12" dia leather shot filled pad   but a sock is much easier to obtain

so long as it has some weight and soft landing it works well    never a rubber mallet  ( toughend glass you can be quite rough  but laminated is an easy crack)

Pete

[Alex Lowe]

Unfortunately no luck with the sock filled with shot smacking it as hard as I dare. 

[Pete Lewis]

i take it you pulled the flip over the flange with a cord   run around the seal  ????

Pete

[chrishawley]

15 hours ago, Alex Lowe said:

Unfortunately no luck with the sock filled with shot smacking it as hard as I dare.

Disclaimer: I'm no expert on screen fitting. My track record  on GT6s is 1  screen badly fitted, 1 screen well fitted, 2 screens broken. Less than 50% success rate!

I thought I'd have a look at what was originally said in the Ops. Manual. It says to fit the weatherstrip to the glass with a continuous bead of Seelastik. Then the finishers are inserted and locked in place by inserting the two center pieces. Cord then inserted in outer channel of weatherstrip and assembly offered up to vehicle. And this is with reference to the earlier narrow finishers and perhaps it is a fair inference that with the later (Mk111) wide finisher it's even more relevant that it has to be fitted to the weatherstrip before the assembly is offered up the the car.

I think I can see Triumphs' logic here which is (possibly) that, in order not to 'pocket' at the corners the rigidity of the glass and the trim have to dictate the position of the rubber rather than the rubber trying to dictate the position of the glass. Maybe. Possibly.

But what was Seelastik? Never encountered it although it was a widely used product at the time used for all sorts of galzing inlcuding greenhouses. Maybe as well as being 'seel' it had a lot of 'stik' as well. Anyone know?

Not sure the above offers any solutions but maybe stimulate further thoughts or discussion.

 

[Pete Lewis]

having just fitted a stag screen with a baines rubber they are made as dry seal there are a variety of infills rubber /mylar plastic  /stainless infill/stainless over fill trim 

the inserts be they rubber or mylar plastic chrome and the stainless witha T insert lock the screen in place by expanding the seal  these do need (gutter sealant) piped in to seal the glass and the aperture the dry seal has more aperture sealing flips and very small ones in the glass groove should be ok dry but a piped in sealer makes best job of old appertures etc.

fitting the first three needs a simple wire tool ot open the rubber to insert the beading    the over the top stainless  fited is just a nightmare and often never gets refitted 

Pete

[Alex Lowe]

On 23/10/2022 at 19:31, Pete Lewis said:

i take it you pulled the flip over the flange with a cord   run around the seal  ????

Pete

Yes Pete, it was just the pesky corners which wouldn't seat. I have ordered a seal from baines to reattempt. Should I be trying things like heating the seal up in hot water first this time and to confirm does the plastic trim need inserting onto the seal first and how important is it to fit this part?

[Colin Lindsay]

That seal looks very strange in the lower photo, almost as if the glass is sitting too far backwards. If you remove it again can we get a photo of what the seal profile looks like?

 

[Pete Lewis]

if its just the "inserted" trim it goes in after fitting   its purpose is to lock the rubber or on a saloon you could slam the door and blow the screen onto the bonnet 

often needs a wire tool to spread the gap and feed the trim into the opened groove 

Pete

 

[Colin Lindsay]

Didn't the MK3 have the c-shaped chrome cover, not an insert? I know a lot of owners gave up rather than fit it, it's difficult to work out how it goes!

[Pete Lewis]

the stag i just did had the C section  with one leg of the C being alonger flip so  how you fit that is a nighmare  but on production they had a tooling

ans ability to do it on the move , there seems no way to fit the C over to engage the flip or reverse the fit flip in first and hook the remain over the lip

Grrr    not succeeded 

Pete

[Firefly]

Pete

         Are you trying to fit the S/Steel trim after you have fitted the screen to the car. It is essent ial  to fit rubber to screen, then S/S trim, then fit the assembly to the car. 

                                                    Mac

[Pete Lewis]

tried both    the flips will not engage with the trim  C channel which has a long  flip side and short flip side to the C

with the curveature of the screen any idea of adding trim prior to fitting would just not work  and just pings the seal off the glass as it takes the shortest route 

and resists  following the glass with a vengance 

Ive fitted many screens  seal trials over the years  and never failed but this trim was a no no 

Pete

[Firefly]

 

      Have only fitted 3 Stag screens, and it was easier than expected ........must have been lucky.

[Pete Lewis]

i wonder if they changed from an insert fit to the C channel   there was no way we could fit the trim pre installation 

I wonder if the baines section is may be more difficult ........... the seal fit in the aperture is brilliant 

Pete 

[Firefly]

 

      You might have something there Pete, seem to remember something did change. Whether it was the trim or rubber can't remember, but am fairly sure an insert was never used. Sorry can't be more helpful.

Mac