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Strange noises from rear end!


Jeffds1360
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Herald 13/60. I have a rotational 'thrum thrum thrum', very noticeable at very low speeds circa every second at 5mph.

Disappears (well maybe) as I get up to 30 and sometimes cannot hear it when I slow down again??? 

I'm new to these and wonder where I should start. I have jacked up all 4 corners and rotated all 4 wheels, there is no bearing noises or movement and no brake binding sounds, in fact they rotate very silently..

Do I look at prop shaft or UJ's or what? 

Cheers for any tips/advise :)

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there will be two things..

a loose wheel nut

endfloat on the drive shaft UJ

it wont be propshaft thats a 4times quicker ,yours sounds road wheel speeds 

you need to get under, jack the wheel to running height and put a stout pry bar in the UJ there must not be any float or movement in the crosspins and yokes 

will probably need a new UJ , dont buy junk off e bay , get reputable eg club shop or known supplier 

if there is small float canley classics sell over sized thickness circlips to aid adujstment 

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Right, cheers.  More testing in the morning. Probably better to do the pair. I see how to get hub off and axle out but the uj's themselves.... how do they come out/get replaced? It looks like a trapped unit with the flange. I see there are circlips but do they push far enough to pop out of flange??? :) never done a uj.

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Well thank you too Paul. Most informative. So the cross piece goes into flange and end caps ( with roller bearings) go on from outside. Eureka 

I understand them now.

Strange that I've never had a uj problem in 50 years of faffing!

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That's pretty much it.  Difficult part is removing the circlips.  There are vaiations.  The first bit doesn't need the vice and it is best to use a wooden or copper faced hammer.
From a guru on a previous message board:

UJ Removal – The JK patented method

 The patented JK UJ removal method is the best thing since sliced bread:

 Remove all circlips - if right handed hold the halfshaft in your left hand around the mid point, and hit the outside of the separate flange (copper hammer is best) so the downward pointing UJ cup is knocked out;

Turn the shaft through 180 degrees and again hit the outside edge of the flange to knock the other cup out (or at least they come out far enough to grab them in a vice).

After removing said flange this leaves two exposed sticky out bits of the UJ, these can be rested across vice jaws and the copper hammer can then be aimed at the yoke on the halfshaft so the upward pointing cup pops upwards, turn through 180 and a couple of taps with the hammer and the last cup pops up and the UJ is out.

With a bit of practice virtually any UJ can be removed in under a minute (once all the clips are out).  If a clip breaks or is very tight it is far easier to get at it by pushing the cup in very slightly once the opposing cup has been taken out.

John Kipping                       24/6/03

Old rusty UJs certainly need some whacking to get them out - if in doubt use a bigger hammer.

John Kipping                       26/6/03

. . . and then you have to pick up all the roller bearings from everywhere.

C.

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or a vice  use a big socket to enable the cup to pass inside and a smaller socket to press the cup through 

if its real tight grip the protruding cup in the vice and waggle  till its free

do note the greaser position if its got one as fitted wrong way round can cause interference

Pete 

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1 hour ago, Casper said:

UJ Removal – The JK patented method

 

John Kipping                       26/6/03

. . . and then you have to pick up all the roller bearings from everywhere.

C.

I can second that. Did my uj's last year and I am still finding roller bearings in places around the garage floor.

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2 hours ago, johny said:

It's alright there's loads in there so no problem losing a few🙃

You've not seen my garage floor or the contents of the garage vacuum cleaner (yes, I do have a vac for the garage...the cruel comments start here...)

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14 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

 (yes, I do have a vac for the garage...the cruel comments start here...)

Don't worry, you're not alone...I have to hoover after sandblasting, or before painting...  in fact I was recently using it for the area of tarmac just outside the garage door... so hoovering the drive is probably worthy of a bit of ribbing... :)

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I hear you all and see your comments, thanks.

Went under with a crow bar to test for movement but it was not high enough and the bar was too long and my back started to give in so I tried a long screwdriver and..... maybe ... I maybe think that there is a little movement on both but I'm not sure (but the noise confirms the problem I think).

Then it all went skew whiff.... the new ignition barrel I fitted the other day came out with the key! Fortunately no tumblers lost and ages later I think I have managed to get the pin to pop into its hole, then I noticed the passenger sun visor had come out of its socket...!!! an hour later and with filing and fiddling it was still NOT in its little pocked. Then my daughter turned up in her pug207 with the heat shield banging about.... 2 hours later it is T time. Enough! 

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 test for movement 

It's very difficult to test for movement as the driveshaft and UJ are under tension because they are part of the suspension (they act as part of a lower wishbone, the spring being the upper).  That's why the noise is louder on trailing/neutral throttle as the tension is released or eased. 

Sorry, but I think they have to come off.   This is all part of the joys and tribulations of Herald ownership.  If you are new to Heralds I would set aside perhaps 2 days.  The Repair Time Schedule gives 3 hours per side (but then they were charging customers and most items can be done much quicker).  Add to that the time spent making sure the rear brakes are in fine fettle while you are at it.

Don't be despondent.  Keep asking.  We are all with you!  It will be worth it.

C.

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you can fit thicker circlips on car with care , but if its making noises i agree the shaft is best removed , and replace the UJ then you know its ok for miles later on, 

getting the hub off may be hard , so think about drop the whole upright ,  as re bleeding the brakes is easier than removing the hub  or you can just  drop  the trunion housing bolt 

this leaves the upright and  shocker in situ .

take your pick how you split the shaft out   you really do need a proper triumph hub puller to remove the shaft , so leave it all assembled 

pete

 

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Thanks again guys. Just had a relaxing day attempting to waterproof the roof. I've tried renovo, I've tried turtle wax conditioner and finally I'm trying fabsil (for tents). Also refitting door mirrors that wobble all over, cleaning all glass work and double checked carb for leaks and correctly fitted diaphragm. 

And! went for a WALK with wife :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

This is getting sorted right now. New UJ driver side. If I manage , nearside too. I have a little problem but am sleeping on it :)

See my post about 'oh no it's my diff' ......... tame mechanic was wrong, well, a bit wrong. There is play in diff but the noise is 99% i'm sure the o/s uj. Tomorrow will tell 

 

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