daverclasper Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 (edited) Hi. I have a sheared stud, that has about 10mm left proud from the head. Just bought a stud extractor to assist with removal. Thought I would use some heat (map gas) around the stud, to assist and lesson the chance of shearing again. I assume this is ok with cast iron?. As well, any other useful tips regarding this, much appreciated, please Thanks, Dave Edited September 1, 2020 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Never had much luck with stud extractors - good luck! I tend to stick an oversize nut over the "stump" and them mig-weld them together and cross my fingers the nut will unscrew it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Dont think youll get much temperature into the head so I would do a few heat/cool cycles on the stud itself to try and get it to break free... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 I've always found YS's MIG welder method to be the best way of applying some heat/cool cycles, and the nut is a lot more useful for gripping than the stud extractor, especially if you've only got 10mm of stud left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Definitely best but unfortunately not all have access to MIG welders☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Moss Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Use gas welding then! I have found welding a nut on is best too. Even better if you can spot blast round the stud before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 What type of stud extractor - I fine that these IRWIN ones are usually the best for tricky broken studs. https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/p81815 There is also a set of additional sizes https://www.toolstation.com/irwin-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/p63045 and heating with a MAPP gas torch would also help, but not quite as good using an induction heater or an acetylene torch or MIGing on a nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 1 hour ago, KevinR said: What type of stud extractor Hi, and thanks. It's a Laser brand, that Pete recommended (I think it still gripped, with a four foot breaker bar, to remove a head? stud, of Doug's). I recently bought a decent MIG. I could practice the settings on same size nut and bolt, though was wondering would the head create a lot of heat sink in the actual situation?. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted September 1, 2020 Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 A red hot blob of metal on the end of the broken stud, with a red hot nut around it, and you could have a heat sink the size of the ocean and the stud wil loosen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 1, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2020 Cheers John. You have put that very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted September 2, 2020 Report Share Posted September 2, 2020 I have a set of Irwin extractors and they are excellent. - 10mm might be enough length to grip - but otherwise as suggested - weld a nut on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 Thanks. just a few questions please (Vitesse Mk1 2 Litre). The none sheared stud (no1, next to water pump, came out with nut attached). I noticed some liquid in the thread bore that seems like coolent. The bore goes into a head (coolent?) cavity. Is this usual, and if so would I need some gasket sealant etc around the stud threads?. Also difficult to use my welder at the moment, though will do at some point I if have to (no garage, and car not close to mains leccy at the mo). So, I can mark the stud the end and at the head to see if it's moving (and also maybe twisting and therefore breaking, as I assume this stud will be very weak through all that exhaust heat?). I can wait and use mig, when a parking spot becomes clear near to me. Really want to avoid shearing stud further at this point Any advice please. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 i have never had a stud shear with the chuck type extractor if its going to shear it will with a welded nut or a decent extractor yes some sealant on the stud which has access to the water jacket is normal pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2020 (edited) Thanks Pete The coolant thing was a "Oh my god", moment, until I fought to drag my non de-fault optimistic head on. I just wondered if the heat from the MIG loosened it more than my MAPP torch and I could do a back and forth movement with a spanner, while undoing to relieve the undoing torque a bit (freed a frozen nut on the number plate light cluster a while back and was happily undoing it, though stiff and the stud broke). Probably over thinking it, but have hindsight from previous misdemeanors. Cheers, Dave Edited September 3, 2020 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 heat can always help but there is also a need to more ATTACK less WORRY Ha ! its just a car you cant kill it a good devised have a go works wonders Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 47 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: Ha ! its just a car you cant kill it Want to bet?? You may not kill it but the recovery process may be protracted and expensive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 thats the fun or the challenge we all face varying levels of hope hate and enthusiasm with something 50 years old excluding the wife or girl friend Ha ! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: excluding the wife or girl friend Ha ! Pete I know, I've tried putting her in a corner of the garage under a cover but she keeps coming back into the house again. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 That stud removal went fine (that extractor is a good bit off kit I reckon, thanks for the tip on that Pete) your encouragement helped me to stop dithering Pete. Ta I managed to melt the oil pressure gauge tube a bit (my cut up tin can heat shield must have brushed it). Should it be ok to repair with a bit of metal tube of the correct diameter outer diameter (4mm) spliced in?. I think modelers shops sell it, or any ideas of anything suitable that may be hanging around?. Current exhaust manifold gasket face pretty poor. A lot of corrosion along the top part of manifold, that's seeped down (how does that happen). Do have a spare that seems good, so will use that. Cheers for all your help. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 well there's fun, then reality and then disaster in no particular order pleased its got you going ha ! pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham C Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 7 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said: I know, I've tried putting her in a corner of the garage under a cover but she keeps coming back into the house again. Yes I have the same problem. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2020 (edited) I took the manifolds off as one. When I separated them I think they were an even, snug, not too tight, fit. The used exhaust replacement, was quite tight and needed tapping quite hard with a mallet to fit between inlet manifold (on the bench), though there are two gaps of around 8 thou between the inner edges of the outer two inlet manifold ports and the outer edges of the two inner exhaust manifold ports (hope this makes sense).. Is this ok, or should I trim a few thou of the edges of exhaust manifold, where they are tight to the inlet manifold? (to allow for heat, metal expansion). Thanks for any help. Dave Edited September 7, 2020 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 7, 2020 Report Share Posted September 7, 2020 probably tight as the casting has shrunk , a bit of clearance is a good plan Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted September 8, 2020 Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Yes, definitely trim a bit off. I had the same problem on mine - the pathetic clamp things won't work if the manifolds are an interference fit with each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted September 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2020 Thanks for that. Will do Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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