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Daily Spit 1500 body repairs & more..


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Adjusted the carbs again this afternoon.

It was to rainy yesterday..

Found a co-tester in the metal scrap.

Seems to work ok (will test it against a calibrated one ).

So had a look, colortune just giving hints of orange and co reading was 4.8 to 5% 

It does drive pretty good and smooth now 🙃

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since a few days the fuel gauge is acting up.

After a quick test.. its the sender in the tank.

So after 44 years, its time for a new one.

Ordered one at my usual dutch supllier and will arrive tomorrow.

Full has been 3/4 for years.

Now since a few days when shes around half a tank she starts to moves about 

Then it just goes fully dead.

 

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obvious question you've checked the float, had a similar issue with the Dolly Sprint mis reading and doing funny things including dropping to empty sometimes, but never getting more than half full.

My problem was the plastic float the steel wire ring holding it had a sharp cut/sheared end that had over 40 years punctured a small hole in the plastic float mounting to the wire holder, changed the float from my numerous spare Triumph floats after removing the burred wire end, all good!

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Got the tank empty and removed the old sender unit

Float had a little bit of fuel in it.

But not much.

Measured the resistance in the old sender.

At one point 0 until empty, so thats wht it went to 0 when the gauge said under 1/2 tank.

 

New sending unit needed some adjustment.. (bending the arm).

Otherwise it would have said it still had fuel.. but was empty.

 

With the fuel back in, 1/2 on the gauge.

Trip to the petrol station.

9liter went in and full, gauge said 3/4

(Did hook up the new sending unit first a d tested it out of the tank, put it on full, gauge said just past 3/4.

In a way I can live with this, been like this for years.

Now to see when the gauge said empty.. that there is still fuel in my tank.

Would be handy 😆

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  • 2 weeks later...

Oh yeah... my rad is again leaking.. 

Spraying coolant around the inside of ghe bonnet ...

Got another failed alloy one.

Had a look and found the leak.

Going to try to repair it myself 😅

 

For the current rad did a test.... it worked !

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For years I had problems with my horn not working very well.

Found out the stalk/switch always burned it.

Now I was getting annoyed.. 

So fitted a relay and now works great !

And no load on the switch anymore.

 

Found a good, non broken indicator/high beam/horn stalk in my stock.

Cleaned all the contacts etc and now works, just need to fit it.

Current one has loads of play..

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More contact cleaning and fixing today.. 

Wanted to fit the cleaned up indicator switch, then the wire broke of the wiper stalk when removing it all from Fox.

 

Couls get the stalk out, re-attached the wire and done.

But.. single wipe worked 11 times out of 10, not the last years.

Cleaned it all.. fixed.

All fitted back and works great..  for now 😄

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Im still surprised of all the switch gear that works so brilliant 😅

Now to fix the (only a bit) dodgy fuel gauge.

Full is 3/4 for tge past 5 to 6 years.

Now with the new sender the same, but empty is still a bit to high.

 

Found out you can adjust the gauge.

So had a go at that, made an temporary extention on the gauge wiring.

So could adjust it easier.

 

Will see now how it works out 🙃 .

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1 hour ago, johny said:

Unfortunately I think you'll have to do two forms of adjustment Wimpus as the needle needs to go further in both directions! Does it go to full with the sender wire to earth and empty when open circuit?

When I fitted the new sender it wasnt right to.

Needed to band the arm to get sort of the same reading at the original one.

I adjusted empty and full.

First pic with connectors loose

2nd pic with jumper wire to earth.

 

 

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Found this online 

 

Went after a potentiometer and tested my gauge 

Well nearly spot on empty needs adjusting.

But first found another problem.

Seems the 10v feed and wire to sender was switch over on the gauge..

After I switched them, the readings where better with the potentiometer.

Sadly cant find out where the wires should go, pics on the internet doesnt help.

 

Last pic, 20ohm and showing full.

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Had a look at some old half shafts i've had laying about.

Took the one with lots od play (and missing hub) first to take apart.

I already knew that the shaft would have been scrap.

 

And oh yes... lots of scoring.

Still need to take the other 3 shafts apart now.

 

Build up 1 bearing carrier with new bearings etc.

As I had bearing kits in my stock for years.

Next week I can use a press and impact, so that would make it easier.

Test fitted my new hub puller to.

And repainted a bunch of parts.

 

This is a job I wanted to do for many years, just want 1 or 2 spare rebuild shafts laying about.

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Found a pic this evening from lockdown 2020.

 

Wiper  parking switch failed again, fitted a new one, week later again bad.

I was fed up and had time.

So made this with a waterproof micro switch, it was very tight of space !

You know what? After 2,5 years it still works great !

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