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Is this a Vitesse fuel tank?


Jeffds1360

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12 minutes ago, johny said:

the solution is to pack out the pump from the mounting on the block so reducing the travel of the operating lever

I know this has been found to work but I can't figure out why. Reducing the travel of the operating arm will reduce the flow capacity but shouldn't affect the pressure. The operating arm works on the "draw" half of the cycle, filling the pump from the tank. The pressure on the outlet is dependent only on the force on the diaphragm, which is governed purely by the spring strength. Unless, of course, the spring is actually too short so that a smaller stroke means it's not being compressed significantly. That strongly suggests the wrong spring - it should be weak but long so that it's pre-compressed by more than the operating stroke, leaving the force moderately constant.

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well I think its because as you progressively compress a spring it needs more pressure (springs are quite often rated force/mm travel) so if the operating arm of the pump only compresses its spring a little the force on the diaphragm will be less when as you say it comes to the fuel expulsion stage. This is key when the carb float valve closes and has to hold back the pressure being exerted by the diaphragm.

Obviously the volume pumped per stroke will be less but as long as the flow rate matches the maximum demand of the carb(s) all will be well....

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Get your drift, yes, shorter movement definitely reduces pressure build up but of course reduces volume passing through.

Pleased my old one is OK! (Well I hope so)....must test that too. I know it sucks at about 2psi but not tested push yet as I was exhausted. 

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well good to have a spare(s) although thats a dangerous road to start down🤣 It shows that just quite a small increase in pressure can overcome float valves...

One things thats noticeable on most replacement pumps is that their operating arms are thinner that the originals and I recall a previous post that showed this, along with possibly more spring resistance, had lead to significant wear on the cam...

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9 minutes ago, Paul Amey said:

Are there any specialist company's that can clean out and repair fuel tanks? I think my Vitesse tank is the original fitment from 1967 judging by the state of it. It is the larger tank and  has the screwed in sender unit .

https://www.fueltanks.co.uk

We have a local branch of these guys, excellent service that splits the seams, blasts the entire tank inside and out then rewelds and seals.

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I suppose, to take the further step. With a refurbishment. You are then in a position to ask about coating the inside as protection against the reported potential ravages of E5/10?.

I know Tanks can be refurbished, but from experience of Motorcycle ones, many, many moons ago, They are a dangerous proposition. Just getting dents out of a bike tank was difficult enough, resealing split seams involved a tank full of HOT water, and Brazing.

Pete

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58 minutes ago, Paul Amey said:

ok thanks. So are we saying just buy a new one and be done with it?

No, they can be repaired, but leave it to the professionals. My Estate tank is unobtainable anyway so was really the only way to go. Cost me £180 for the work, three year guarantee, and should be ethanol resistant.

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10 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

No, they can be repaired, but leave it to the professionals. My Estate tank is unobtainable anyway so was really the only way to go. Cost me £180 for the work, three year guarantee, and should be ethanol resistant.

That sounds quite reasonable to me, considering the potential hazards of dealing with a contaminated vessel.

Before I could do an internal examination Calor had to steam the tankers, sometimes for days, and then certify "gas free", even then I had a respirator, and a back up man with B-A. My the boiler suit stank for days!!. Wasn't allowed back in the house until I stripped and put the gear in the Washing Machine either!.

Pete

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