Rockape Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Having removed the original cardboard and bodged fibreglass tunnel cover, a few questions arise… 1 - where can I get a new ABS tunnel cover 2 - I reckon I need to replace these bushes - any snags likely doing this? 3 - there appears to be a grease nipple on the UJ. And there is the Clutch cylinder and speedo drive. It will be faff taking the cover off once all the carpets etc. are back for access - or is that just the way it is ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffds1360 Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 In my limited experience my thoughts are 1 - club shop ?? 2 - not done it but access from below as well. 3 - it is the way it is it's not that time consuming I have found. You get used to it. Nice to see someone from up north Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 1 - club shop or Canley or Paddocks (although they seem to be out of stock at the moment) 2 - yep, they need replacing. The currently available repro parts aren't great (but maybe not as bad as the OD version?). The job is relatively simple but you probably need to detach the prop to get enough lift on the gearbox to clear the saddle. 3 - that's actually a sliding spline grease nipple but as Jeff says, you can (just about) get at it from below 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Canleys, and most other suppliers sell the ABS covers. I’ve one in both my Spit and Herald and they fit nicely. The sticky backed seal that gets sold to go with them comes off quickly when oil gets on it, so I’ve stapled mine on. To do the mounts you just need to get a jack under the back of the box and lift it get the old ones in and the new ones out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted January 5, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 Thanks chaps…… found the Tunnel cover in the club shop , and the seal (thanks for the tip on fastening) about the bushes - I don’t see those specifically listed … I am looking for “drive shaft bushes” - I guess they are called something else? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 2 minutes ago, Rockape said: I am looking for “drive shaft bushes” - I guess they are called something else? Hi. Gearbox mounting bushes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 21 minutes ago, Rockape said: Thanks chaps…… found the Tunnel cover in the club shop , and the seal (thanks for the tip on fastening) about the bushes - I don’t see those specifically listed … I am looking for “drive shaft bushes” - I guess they are called something else? I support the TSSC shop wherever I can BUT the seal kit is not worth the money . Check out draught excluder on the web and you can get a much cheaper deal Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 RA Club Shop for tunnel cover, although it may need some fettling, don't bother with their fitting kit, use the old bits and draft excluder. Yes, those are definitely ex-bushes. Consider cutting holes in the new cover for access to clutch cylinder , speedo drive and gearbox top up. Cover holes with flaps/plugs. Doug 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 There was a neat description in the Courier recently of using ABS sheet to make easily removable access hatches in the ABS covers. I think it was Andy Cook in the GT6 reg. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 5, 2022 Report Share Posted January 5, 2022 The biggest problem with the hole for refilling the gearbox is that someone of my size can't get down into the footwell to access it in the first place. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockape Posted January 7, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 One more dumb question. The dashboard support bracket - the yoke that goes down and connects the dashboard to the floor-pan I had to remove this as it was bolted through the old carpets. Is that normal? Or should the bracket be fitted and firmed-up first, and the carpets fitted and cut around this after.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 Much easier to fit on top of the carpets. It may be a bit of a faff to get it into place with the extra depth of carpet under it, and to find the holes for the bolts, but it keeps the carpets in place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 All the ones I've seen have been bolted through the carpet 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 On 05/01/2022 at 19:28, Colin Lindsay said: someone of my size can't get down into the footwell to access it in the first place. you need to make a glass level gauge nick one from an oil tank or steam loco and fit it inside the cabin !!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 A useful tip to refit the H frame is to use a scissor jack (2 better) under the dash to list it a smidge and give clearance. And yes, it can be a nightmare to get in/out, as the dash frame tends to drop slightly with age. But best on top of the carpet. However, as my car is far from std, there is no carpet under my H frame, just the foot. Still tight... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 19 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: you need to make a glass level gauge nick one from an oil tank or steam loco and fit it inside the cabin !!!! Pete Can I do the same for the diff? It must be empty by now... (photo taken after I moved the Herald for the Boxing Day run...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 thats some leak whats failed ??? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 7, 2022 Report Share Posted January 7, 2022 No idea, haven't got that far to check, yet, but that's substantial, and all ran out when parked up after the previous run. It's all coming out in the next month. I've replacement seals plus an entire new casing just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josef Posted January 8, 2022 Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 On 07/01/2022 at 10:46, Rockape said: One more dumb question. The dashboard support bracket - the yoke that goes down and connects the dashboard to the floor-pan I had to remove this as it was bolted through the old carpets. Is that normal? Or should the bracket be fitted and firmed-up first, and the carpets fitted and cut around this after.? The photos in the brochures / owners manual / factory wsm show it over the carpets so we can be pretty confident that’s the ‘right’ way! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted January 8, 2022 Report Share Posted January 8, 2022 I was having too apply much pressure to refit our frame with the new thick carpet so I ended up cutting the carpet in two one section behind and one in front of the brace, you can't tell when all refitted, and changing gears doesn't dislodge the carpet. So in our case the brace is bolted to the floor/chassis which in retrospect "I" think is better solution, Also beware the frame bolts into a bar welded onto the top of the chassis not through the top of the chassis, caution don't fit bolts that are too long as they'll bottom out and potentially strip the thread, I'd ASSUMED the bolts holes were drilled right thro the chassis and so I stripped ours, subsequently I had to drill right thro the bar and chassis top and heli-coil, I'm much happier with the necessary upgrade!! On the Spitfire the top right hand nut and bolt thro the dash bottom is a bu**er to fit the nut, hidden behind dash structure & support, needs small hands, when I had the gearbox cover off the daughters Spit a couple of weeks ago to replace the clutch slave, she had to fit that RH nut (small hands) and commented can't we fit a large Rivnut (steel) for future ease of dis and reassembly, she's thinking! I must investigate? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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