johny

Even so I do love em as theyre proper engineering and you can whack in new bearings/bushes/brushes and they just keep going after 60+ years. Pity they didnt make the casing out of aluminium though instead of using left over WW2 howitzer barrel😞

Ha, I did exact same thing but by bashing it - cant believe how soft it is! I was going to file it down and redo in metric but in the end managed to restore the existing thread as its not got to be done up very tight...

Yes should say on the tyre the number of ply. Ive just bought some 13" and admittedly theres not so much choice nowadays but they say single ply on the walls and 3 for tread...

Yes Im finding my Vitesse with Mk2 SS standard system (backbox only) a bit too noisy these days so wondering if an additional resonator would do much....

Yes however with a modern car manufacturers still produce OEM components so you dont have to rely on non specialist companies making small batches of reverse engineered stuff😒

Yes if that exhaust valve is deposit free Id say replacement is a good idea. Lapping is difficult to say as you might be there for ever trying to attain a pit free surface so machining could be a better option? Also how do the valve guides feels, any wobble from the valves?

Obviously when you stop the engine there can still be pressure in the line from the pump to the carb. I think a float valve must be leaking a little and it allows this pressure to discharge more fuel in to the chamber which as the engine has stopped running theres no demand so it causes an overflow. The fuel pump non return valves must be very good so you could test the float valve sealing and at the same time check if the float levels correct....

Do you have a mechanical fuel pump or electric?

Looking good! How effective do you find those cherry bombs?

That should do the job. I wonder if its the other front wheel bearing as both sides have rollers that are loaded when turning either way....

Yes its what most modern cars use to seal their coolant pumps although some are electric now and I dont know what they use. As you say it needs the coolant to be kept very clean so have to check with EP services what they install and the limits of their guarantee....

I thought EP machine the pump to replace the seal with a modern mechanical seal and also use ceramic bearings so that as long as you own the car they will repair the pump. Obviously something hasnt been done correctly in this case so could be argued all the costs are down to them....

Doesnt the EP services one have a lifetime guarantee? Suppose you have to pay postage though🙁

I just hope the replacement bearing was as good quality as the one thrown away🙁

yes try disconnecting the pedal completely from the master cylinder. Like this fluid should flow freely from the reservoir through the MC and out to the brakes - in fact thats how one-person brake bleeders work, either applying a pressure to the reservoir with a special cap or sucking with a small pump/syringe from the bleed nipple and no pedal operation required.... If this doesnt happen then looks like theres a problem with the MC.

I think if I do the same I'll have a go with that plastic wrap....

The nipple connects to an internal channel down to the bottom of the vertical link so pumping oil in will tend to push the grease out and up through the trunnion thread to be ejected from the top rubber seal. It'll be a bit messy but rather than stripping them down I would do this flush with oil while the wheel is off the ground...

You must be driving more efficiently than the computer initially expects, well done thats very green😍

should be ok but of course you have a duplex cam chain so I wonder if the tensioner is the same...

Believe DJB has a 1973 GT6 which presumably has a multi mark pulley so I guess any cover with a large seal should be suitable. Course would then be a good idea to confirm that TDC of piston one corresponds with the indications...

For Heralds Rimmers list all of the following for 13/60 GK engines but thats an error as the third one here definitely isnt: 217790U used, available (single pointer, large seal?), 217790DOLU used, available (multi pointer, large seal?), 201311U used, available (single pointer, early type with small seal?), 217069 new, not available (unknown pointer, small seal?)

Yes it looks quite confusing as Rimmers list 4 different part numbers for Herald timing covers and theres obviously different seal sizes and pointer designs. Certainly my Vitesse cylinder cover has a single pointer but I think is the same cover as the large crank 4 cylinder type so before buying any cover you need to check both pointer suitability AND seal size...

Just different indicators intended to show the position of piston 1. However the first can be used with any crank pulley ie one that has multiple marks or just one whereas the second cover can only be used with a multiple mark pulley. If you try to use the second with a pulley intended for the first type you'll only be able to find top dead centre of the piston and not its degrees of rotation before that point you need to set the ignition timing....

Hmmm a V8 doesnt really lend itself to fitting well in the Triumph small chassis and then a 3.5L is just too big anyway. No I think it should have been a 2L OHC six but maybe with the cylinders slightly off the centreline to keep it shorter and of course with aluminium block and head👍Course a new gearbox would have been nice as well!

No not really BRG but 1970s lighter green like some Marinas had👍