johny

+1 for the push in rad fins sensor

Yes that's the same as mine. Always wished the leads had right angle plugs into the cap though as I think it would look neater😕

Oops sorry of course it's a 22D6

Yes I'm quite pleased by the way the temperature rise after stopping the engine is controlled now. It certainly helps a lot with a hot restart as the fan running reduces under bonnet heat build up as well....

My 2L MK1 Vitesse was definitely supplied with a 25D.....

I think if the electric fan is set up to run on after engine stop the thermosyphon effect will be considerably increased at least until the wax thermostat closes

As long as the thermostat is open don't forget that the thermosyphon effect will still give a certain amount of coolant circulation. Mine needed a bit of choke on a restart after quite short stops until I adjusted the fan settings.....

Ahh I thought I saw somewhere the thermostat was fully open about 3deg after the start temperature. 15 to 20 makes more sense although I haven't seen much of a change in running temp on my gauge by going to a 78 thermo☹️

Ok I can understand the modulating effect but if an 82* thermostat is working fine in the winter why shouldn't it be ok in summer? If the coolant temperature has gone too high the thermostat will be fully open and putting in a lower temp thermostat won't help!

I can see how it works if your engine runs cold as the thermostat starts to close so reducing cooling and increasing engine temp. A higher temp thermostat will open later so forcing the system to run hotter but the reverse😳

I've always wondered how, if your engine is running hot, putting a lower temp thermostat is supposed to make it run cooler! Assuming the original is good to me the only difference seems to be it will open sooner on start up and start cooling earlier....

Manual is available PDF format online and free!

why not try testing your mixture with the plunger on the side of each Stromberg. With the engine up to temperature I lift one with a finger and then release it after a second while listening to the engine response which shouldnt change. If the revs rise - too rich and fall - weak however its the immediate response your interested in as if you hold the plunger up too long the revs always tend to drop off. Always thought the Lucas was supposed to be the better dizzy but maybe thats just down to its build quality....

you might be able to confirm this by pulling the choke out a little while driving to see if the richer mixture that gives helps....

could be mixture a shade weak and as the weather warms up it gets worse and shows as engine hesitation at constant speed while acceleration is ok due to the mixture being enrichened then.....

I think the biggest cause of head and exhaust gasket failures could be down to the correct fixing bolt torque not being maintained over time. With usage the heating and cooling of components seems to reduce the clamping force and I wonder if this is why modern design has gone to stretch bolts. However for us the only solution would be to periodically re-torque bolts (which of course in some cases isnt easy) and this certainly seems to have worked on my exhaust gasket......

oh god if Payen's qualities gone what are we going to be able to use!

John, I wouldnt go into panic mode😁 I had a tank rust problem after leaving my Vitesse off the road for quite a while but it stabilised with regular use of the car. I know in the Herald/Vitesse the outlet pipe comes in from the top so doesnt suck right from bottom of the tank but once the initial heavy layer of rust comes off the inside the process slows down a lot. Why not just keep an eye on the filter and/or replace it at regular intervals - theyre cheap enough at 70p each from Euro Car Parts!

From where exactly is the oil coming from on the engine? Also whats the serial number stamped on the engine to confirm what it is?

recessed/non recessed refers to a recess around each cylinder bore that later engines had. Dont think any Vitesse had the recess type (although a later engine could have been fitted of course) which was an attempt by Triumph to stop head gasket failures as the cylinder is where the highest pressures are so the most likely point of failure. However from what Ive read these engines didnt have a particular failure problem although perhaps Triumph were trying to preempt issues from increasing power outputs in some of the 2.5 models.....

Payen seems to be the most sought after but personally I think the Triumph 6 engine isnt particularly prone to head gasket failure and as long as its installed correctly any gasket from one of the main suppliers will be fine....

sounds like the PO put the bumper section onto the valance while the whole thing was off....

Im afraid I think you really need to find where your timing setting is either using Petes method above or if possible with a timing strobe light. With a bit of luck you can run your engine on 98 at the standard timing so avoiding any retard but note: theres no use in advancing more than the recommended value even if theres no knocking....

Pump check is easy enough, just disconnect the fuel line from the carbs and manually operate pump. You should get a good squirt of fuel into a container on each stroke however I dont think it'll be your problem as normally the pump just loses performance as the non return valves dont seal properly. This shows up as fuel starvation under high engine load so It would have to be very poor to not even pump enough to maintain a tickover. Now I think dirt is unlikely as well because you would have seen it in the filter but the other suggestions sound possibles......

certainly sounds like it! I wonder if anybody else has got near that figure or if its a record....