Mathew

It does sound like master cylinder. When it takes 7 presses to brake you have waited too long.

My fatherinlaw bought his escort new and never had a service after the first free one! He gave it to me when it was eleven years old and 77k miles. The oil was watery and alot of elmulsifed gung on the rockers, a good flush and fresh oil ran for another 3 years and 50k miles, with service's only for me to scrap it due to rot !

Looks like they have added some jelly for added effect. If this is not fake the jelly would be liquid when the engine was warm. Engines without oil seize very quickly. With the filter blocked the bypass should open. Yes they have added something to the oil when hot, then let it cool and set. But you should change the oil at least every 6000 miles (i prefer 3000 with less use) minimum yearly.

Colin has it. Maybe go slightly smaller. My 2500s has a 1088 belt for the water pump and alt. In the spares box that came with it is a 1092 and that is too long! A slightly shorter belt would give me more adjustments but at the risk of failure when it has stretched too far.

For repair patches i have a selection on old panels i can cut, all the nice recesses already in them, never chuck anything.

Been reading up on the rear anti roll bars for spitfires, seems they work better on rotoflex or cv shaft setups, not so good on swing spring. I do love rushing in, sometimes it works. I will try it as i have a good local route that hardly gets any traffic on it. It should provide a good comparison and a write up for here. I probably would get a better improvement from a taller lifting block, something for summer me thinks.

Love the spot, a good clean and some fresh petrol and your good to go. Who can't remember the stories of a triumph left in the front garden for twenty years, given some fresh petrol and a jump start and driven home.

Check the carpet below the heater. How much coolant are you loosing? Check radiator cap, does the expansion bottle loose water or gain?

A new gasket with some gasket sealant should sort the thermostat housing. As doug has said a clean of the rad then see if it or where it leaks. Check the core plugs, especially at the back of the head. Had a leak from there! If leaking from radiator, change or repair that.

I have an old clutch alignment tool, bought from a secondhand tool stand many years ago. I have used it on a couple if clutches, but i have seen those dummy end shafts and they look just the ticket. Won't have time to get one before job done this time. 🤔 Will still need to drop water as hoses for heater need to be disconnected as gear box side being dropped and will stretch those.

Yes, when the car is lifted a frame for the gearbox fitted into the trolly jack, if im able would be a good idea.

Looking like your progress is speeding up. How are you getting on with the new welding helmet.

I was going to say my old 1500 spitfire would get average 45mpg and up to 50 with careful driving . I had a gpx motorbike that would get over 50mpg but drop down to 19mpg if i thrashed it. It hasn't got binding brakes?

The starter motor will need to come off?!

Ok i have a plan. Please chip in if i have missed anything. Plan to start Wednesday morning till its done. 1. Disconnect battery 2. Drain coolant 3. Disconnect radiator hoses and heater hoses. Remove radiator? 4. Disconnect and cap fuel line before pump (will be replacing as got cracks). 5. Disconnect gearleaver from inside car and remove. 6. Lift car and support on stands. 7. Drain gearbox. 8. Remove exhaust in the way of dropping gearbox. 9. Disconnect propshaft, speedo cable and slave pushrod. 10. Support engine and gearbox on trolley jack, remove nuts holding gearbox to body (four beam ones) and lower to an angle to be able to remove engine bolts. 11 Support engine in fixed position and mover trolly jack to support gearbox. 12. Remove engine to gearbox bolts. 13. Carefully wiggle to free gearbox from engine, supported by trolly jack (i know item 13) maybe lower and slide onto car creeper. 14. Replace clutch, clutch activation parts. Sort any items that are discovered on the way! 15. The reversal of parts 14 to 1. Wish me luck, and must remember to take some photos along the way.

No time too busy tinkering😄

For 30 quid i will give it a go. The rear on mine is standard apart from half inch lifting block, mgf disks and 16 inch 205 tyres on mgtf wheels with freelander studs. Its something to have a play with. What else am i going to do!

I get me coat 😁

Some bright light will point it out

Just picked up a rear anti roll bar for my spitfire. 30 pound, will see how fitting goes in the near future.

Was it running on coal?

Love the pit in the background, i would definitely use those ramps, have though about getting a set in the past. I filled in my hole in the garage, kept getting in the way! Either the hole was just where i wanted to put a support or the car was in the wrong place, i had not fully dug it out, just left the space when i made the slab.

Still have the jack, its in my pile of scrap metal, I don't know where i could get seals for it. I have the orignal first workmate! Its got scars from use but it still works as it should! I'm not quite old enough to have bought it new. I was given it by my next door neighbour 30 years ago! He thought it too old and did not do use it. Its been on work sites and used ever since. My dad has a collection of old drills from the 50's he used for building work! And they all run. Being pre sds they are limited in usefulness but can still bang a hole in a wall.

Halfords jacks definitely good, at least they were, only just thrown mine after over 25 years of service. It still worked but had started to leak.

Look at rx8 gearboxes. Fitted one to my spitfire. Mine has a puma engine but a suitable adapter could be made. I have found it to be very smooth with a quick change. Mine is 5 speed, the six speed is exactly the same measurement. They are alot cheaper than t9 but have gone up since i got mine. Expect to pay 150 to 200 for one.