Gully

Or Ho Ho Ho Santa! ? I reckon that's exactly what Gill needs for Christmas... Gully

If there's something wrong with what you've bought then return it - makes no difference whether something is cheap: faulty is faulty and your statutory rights apply. Irrespective of who owns Borg and Beck now (or then, if you bought old stock), there should be quality control. That's assuming you didn't damage the disc getting it over the tight spot on the shaft! ?? Gully

Welcome! Gully

I kept my GT6 under a car cover under the car port the first winter I had it - drew out the micro blistering beautifully! Not used it since... Gully

Yes, when you remove the centre console you should see the existing voltage stabiliser attached to the back of the speedo. I attached the new solid state one to the nearest knurled nut speedo clamp, which also happens to hold the speedo earth wire. Gully

It was great to see the fruits of your labours at Silverstone last year - having put so much into a project I think I would have found it impossible to sell on. Hope the Ginetta Is as satisfying as the GT4. Gully

We had a similar issue with the Vulcan to the Sky Club magazine ring binders - needed to buy in bulk for a sensible unit price, but a very slow seller that took up loads of space! Of course, as soon as we sold out (after about 8 years), a few people wanted them! Personally, I wouldn't buy any - I keep the odd Courier of particular interest and then recycle the rest as the DVD versions come out. Gully

The paper copy's more use in the smallest room - interpret as you will! ? Gully

I'm looking forward to fitting mine once the lower brackets arrive from the Club shop - the supplier seems to have let them down on a couple of occasions with promised deliveries not landing. I'm told the Mk IV / 1500 Spit / Mk 3 GT6 bracketry is a better fit than for the earlier models. Gully

Welcome back! Gully

There are different depths around. I found after replacing my radiator that the cap from the Club shop wasn't quite deep enough. I bought another off eBay, only to find the same problem, but then bought a Fahler one - the standard version without the pressure release lever - and that fits a treat. They seem to vary around the 21-25mm inset depth. Gully

Welcome to the forum! Gully

The metal dome cap is much better than the nylon version, particularly with the cupped metal washer over the top of the spring underneath it. Both Andy Cook and I had experience of the spring pushing through the nylon dome cap in under 12 months of refurbishing, despite taking all the sharp edges off the cover. Gully

I've found the best approach to the web shop is to phone up! And the nice part about that is that someone answers, calls you back as necessary etc. ? Gully

I bought my stabiliser from Rimmers - they've gone over to the solid state ones now. Gully

I mentioned on another thread that I'd fitted a new wheel bearing over the weekend. The felt seal included with the Club Shop bearing kit was a great fit. Gully

Open the centre of the dashboard and use a voltmeter to check the supply voltage to the temperature gauge (light green wire on my GT6). It should be 10v - if you have 12v then the gauge will over-read with the correct temperature sender. The 10v is a stabilised supply via a little box on the back of the speedo. If that is correct, then try changing the sender as suggested above to ensure you do have a GTR108 fitted. I had a similar issue earlier in the summer - there is a thread on here tracking my progress to resolving it! Gully

Welcome! Gully

Mine suddenly stopped working a couple of years ago. I bought a replacement pump and rebuild kit as I was remote from the car at the time (in my parents' garage whilst we were having an extension at home). Took the top off the pump with it still attached to the engine and the hole in the diaphragm was immediately obvious. Quick change of the diaphragm and check of the straked-in valves and it was fine. There are a few reports of the new mechanical pumps putting out too much pressure, but I've still not had to fit my spare (fortunately!). Gully

Yes, I found after the first (short) run after repacking it was quite loose! After tightening I did a 40 mile run including a dual carriageway section and fast flowing road, after which I put another 1/8th of a turn on the nut (and impaled my finger on the split pin!). Hopefully sorted now, but will check again after another 100 miles or so. Gully

The GT6 manual says 3 to 5 thou end float (dry assembled) on the front bearings. Quite where that is measured or how to measure it isn't included! This is fresh in my mind having fitted a new wheel bearing this weekend... The one I removed I had to use a spanner to release the castellated nut. I'm guessing that was a bit tight, although there was some float due to the larger of the two bearings having worn. I've set the new one so that I can discern some movement between the edge of the brake disc and the back plate, but no clonking / knocking feel. Who knows if it's right (never done one or felt one before), but it's looser than the near side front and didn't seize or bind after a 70mph run along the Bedford bypass. Gully

Great photos! Thank you for taking the time to write up your adventures. Are you noticing any benefit from the EFI conversion on this trip? Gully

I have that Haynes manual - an eBay purchase for £7 a couple of years ago, so 10x inflation over 2 years is satisfying! ? I'm lucky that my carbs still have their brass tags attached, which meant I could be happy they were correct for the car (that and the fact the car runs fine!). That said, no idea if the original B5BT needles are still installed after all these years. Gully

Copy of my Courier article attached. Regards, Gully Overdrive Solenoid Replacement.pdf

I've got a pdf of the article (with photos) on my work PC - will email it to this tablet tomorrow and then endeavour to upload. If that doesn't work, happy to email it. Gully