Chris A

i have no experience with the 1200, I have a 13/60. Last year I misread the instructions for adjusting the mixture and ended up with exactly the same problem. Started fine as usual, ran great. If I stopped the engine and left the car for a while it restarted ok but if I stopped it and then tried to restart it wouldn't. so maybe you have an over rich mixture? Good luck, I'm sure someone here will have the cure.

Thanks for the input. If I am still strugling after Pete's method I'll go round to my local mechanic who has done other work on it and get him to check it.

The car and engine is a standard UK model. I'll try your method when the weather permits. Thanks for the help

An update on where I am with the change from 95 To 98. Having run the 95 petrol in the tank down to virtually empty and filled with 98 I have been gragually advancing the ignition via the knurled nut on the distributor by 1 revolution increments. After each change I drove the car until fully warmed up and them did the "40mph in 4th" test as recommended by members on here. Well, the timing has gone from the fully retarded position on this adjuster to the fully advanced and I don't seem to have any running problems doing the test. although I have to say that the last run with it fully advanced did give my the feeling it wasn't running as smoothly as the previous setting, fully advanced minus 1 revolution so I have reset it to fully advanced minus 1 revolution ready for my next outing, which will be sunday for a club run at the latest. I gather that the marks on the shaft by the vacuum unit are at 4° intervals, ther seems to be 4 or maybe 5 intervals, so 16 to 20 degrees of adjustment if this is correct. I really find it hard to believe that the timing can be advanced this much without getting severe running issues. Maybe even though the shaft is moving there is something wrong internally and the timing hasn't been changed. Any comments, thoughts or advice? Baffled in Normandie. P.S. The Sunday run should give plenty of time to do the 40 in 4th test as one of the cars will be a 1937 Peugeot which 'cruises' at 30 to 40.... Thanks all

That is what I intended to do but I dropped the knurled nut, hence why I used a steering clamp. I couldn't find the nut anywhere, until today. I was rummaging about behind the dials, as one does, and the nut suddenly fell out of where it was hidden. It is now back on the clamp. 😘

I earthed mine to a steering column bracket. Much easier than the back of a dial. 😀

Last year I replaced the voltage stabiliser on my 13/60 with an electronic one. I left the old unit in place and just wired in the new one and let it hang loose

I will be keeping my modern for a long time then.I don't think it has an ashtray. 🚬

Don't get me started on what can or can't be used anymore. . . I could go on long enough to cause the forum's computer to commit suicide! I will give just one example. Glysophate (Roundup) I can't use my 1/2 litre per year anymore but the farmer with the field that is next to my property can use as much as he likes... Grrr! Time for my tablets . . . . . . .

Plenty of tread on the tyres, so they're good at least 💀

Just because your'e an anorak doesn't mean the information isn't worth reading

I know what you mean. There are threads that start which don't have seem to have any interest for me, but like this one you don't know where they are going to end up - a bit like when I go for a drive in my Triumph 💨🔍

Noted

When I took delivery of my 13/60 in 2015 there were traces of mayo, I knew the car hadn't been properly run for a while, after cleaning it off and driving the car as it should there has never been a problem since. I vote for "give it a run" as well 💨

What I do with my 13/60 when I want 1st from stationary and cold is to put it into 2nd then into 1st, this seems to avoid any noises. For reverse, yes clutch in slight delay then engage reverse. Once the engine is warm and unless I'm moving off on a hill the car will pull away in 2nd, again avoids the non syncro 1st. There is also the good old double de-clutch method of changing between syncro and non syncro 1st & 2nd.

I was born and brought up in north Derbyshire so I am familiar with the Yorkshire "ethics" on spending money. We used to say that a Yorkshireman was just a Scot with all the generosity knocked out of him.

So does this make them Bipolar?

Pack a cool box with various cold drinks, non alcoholic, to keep you fresh. As for the car, I'm sure others will have advice.

Antiquera? there is a Paradore there and as Mrs Me loves staying in them, maybe I should suggest this year's holiday should be in spain again and include antiquera. I think she would smell a rat as I never propose a holiday. Nice looking example, what was parked just in front of it? There looks to be an interesting set of rear lights on a white car, another oldie?

Hi Roger, you get the prize for asking this question I expected someone to ask. Having read about the levels of "additives" in 95 that don't sit well with our beloved motors, that 95 causes higher running temperatures and that 98 has less of them( I believe) I thought I might go that route. I'm not looking ( well a bit maybe) for increased performance, the car can still give moderns plodding along our rural roads a shock as I overtake them. The car, as I said runs well on 95 and I don't have any overheating problems as a rule. I just thought I would float the idea.

Pete, as usual a very well detailed answer to a question asked here, however NonMember's answer is much more in keeping with my technical abilities . "A bit more advance"? what a couple of degrees? 3 revolutions of the knob? Thanks to both of you.

My 13/60 is currently set to run on 95, there is no problem with it and I am quite happy as it is. However, I am thinking of resetting it to run on 98 so I looked at the manual to see what is involved. As I see it all the needs to be adjusted is the static timing and this is set with the knurled adjuster on the dizzy and by looking at the number of divisions visible at the vacuum end? I have no idea how many degrees BTDC it is set at so I thought – if I look at how many divisions are visible that gives me the setting, 1 division = 4° according to the hand book. Snag is as can be seen in the photo there are no divisions visible so I guess when the timing was set whoever did it simply turned the dizzy body until they got a smooth running engine on 95. Does this mean I need to go the complicated route and have the timing checked with a strobe and then reset it to run on 98? A previous owner also decided the dizzy looked better painted black, I have cleaned a bit off so as to be able to see the divisions easier, had there been any to see. I’m sure I can rely on you guys to come up with various methods, preferably including one that doesn’t require anything more than turning the adjuster a little. Fingers crossed.

A Big Shoe ?

Do they come in metric sizes or just imperial?

Another vote for Paul's example. I have a short length of hose pipe on it to protect the wheels. I can't say if this is the version that would have been supplied as standard but to me it looks as if it could have been.