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13/60 randomly turning off or kicking back, high temps


Quack

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26 minutes ago, Wagger said:

The short lever version fits on the outer side of the cam. The long one goes behind and needs the spacer.

Are you sure about this because it means the pump fitted with its arm behind the cam must operate in reverse ie you pull the lever away from the pump to operate it?

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The lever of both the long lever and the short lever pump goes on the outer side of the cam.

The long lever pump (plus the spacer) was introduced to try and reduce the temperature of the pump, which in turn would reduce the temperature of the fuel arriving in the carburettors and as a result improve the fuel consumption and reduce the emissions (ever so slightly)

The pumps are effectively interchangeable - as long as you use a spacer with the long lever one.

If using the long lever pump and spacer, you also need longer studs on the block.

 

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I’m using a short lever. But anyway regardless, my fuel flow is clearly crap compared to the manual pump so I need to find out why that is and why it randomly started happening after 8 months of no problems

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1 hour ago, johny said:

Are you sure about this because it means the pump fitted with its arm behind the cam must operate in reverse ie you pull the lever away from the pump to operate it?

Yup, sorry guys, you are correct. Always  on the outside of the cam.

I should have stayed out of it eh?

The advantage of the glass bowl variety is that you can see whether it is working or not. Try to find one!

My glass bowl one is definitely on the outside of the cam. I got it wrong once and it just wobbled providing too little fuel. It is very easy to get this wrong.

Also, some people do not realise that it only pumps when it has to. On low demand, the diaphragm hardly moves.

 

 

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Well In that case I’m fully out of ideas. I suppose my options are to buy a spacer and try the new fuel pump again…or reluctantly buy an electric fuel pump which to be honest I’m leaning more towards since it will just route past the issue…and probably introduce a load more

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so the situation is the old pump works ok by hand but not very well on cam? This suggests a problem with its installation as wagger says above....

The other thing that makes me a bit nervous is your connections to the pump - I think the standard was a long metal pipe with olive and threaded compression fitting into the outlet and the same on the inlet but the pipe was only a few inches long to allow a rubber section to join it to the pipe under the car. Yours seems to have been modified but of course the olives and correct fittings must be retained...

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The pump still has the 6mm pipes with olives, they’re just running in to the rubber tubes, but yeah that seems to be the issue. I’ve popped it out and in a few times, and the fact that I can operate the manual pump when it’s fitted probably implies that it’s not fitted correctly. I’ll take a look with an electric pump and then if the problem persists then it must be something else.

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Also it sounds like the new pump's longer arm might be causing problems which in theory it shouldnt do unless its snagging on something else inside the block instead of sitting on the cam. This sounds possible because that guy said when he cut his new pump arm down it worked....

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1 hour ago, Quack said:

the fact that I can operate the manual pump when it’s fitted probably implies that it’s not fitted correctly.

Either that or...

Can you take the pump off and have a close look through the hole at the cam lobe? It should be a simple circular (offset centre) lump with parallel sides and smooth surfaces. If it's not operating the pump then it could be due to lobe damage. (If that is the case then I'd go for the electric pump; it's not worth replacing the camshaft just for that).

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the way i see it you will have no cranking issues should start straight up. .although i can see no reason while your manual pump will not work, at least you should have it running again with the electric pump just make sure it is a low pressure  type .out of curiosity  l would leave the manual pump connected run the car then switch of the electric pump see what happens , obviously put a switch in line for the pump .

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21 minutes ago, Quack said:

Yeah I’m just gonna go with electric pump, I ordered a 2 - 4 psi one although that may even be too high but we’ll see

I’ve fitted a Huco pull type on my Vitesse excellent bit of kit , if you need any info let me know . 
Paul 

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I’ve got a couple rubber circled actually I’ll use those, good idea thanks. And yes a record indeed!

I did wake up today to a small leak from one of the connections, took it off and notice the tank seems to just push out fuel by itself now, the tank must be pressurised or something? I’ve bent the pipe over a Jerry can to avoid losing any fuel.

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29 minutes ago, Quack said:

I did wake up today to a small leak from one of the connections, took it off and notice the tank seems to just push out fuel by itself now, the tank must be pressurised or something? I’ve bent the pipe over a Jerry can to avoid losing any fuel.

The tank shouldnt pressurise because the cap has a small hole (if not blocked) to allow air in and out. I think what youre seeing there is a syphon and thats exactly what you want as it means air is not being sucked in from any pipe connections👍

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