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Failed diff bearings?


AlanT

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You could grind that off, very carefully, until the metal is thin enough to get a screwdriver into the notch and prise apart. Failing that a puller like this - the two circular silver bits - will get in under it:

s-l1600-98.thumb.jpg.4dcf6581b9f450ad7da56e474ce39394.jpg

That kit is currently on eBay for £9 or so - don't knock it as being cheap rubbish; I've used one for years and it's been great for light / home garage work.

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Pic's as requested the cheap PRC set under $40 delivered, but do the job, the good quality USA Famous Toledo on right were brought first & expensive, but didn't have the accessories ie bridge & extension offset bolts n'pieces hence the PRC set.

Hope this explains my previous post, this is how I pulled my stub axle bearings, the example I show is a spare rebuilt stub axle I have, I'll have to re-wrap/seal it to put back into store. 

Alan I obviously didn't read the ongoing thread from your request for photo's & see the very helpful replies

Cheap Set PRC Small & Large Bearing Seperaters.JPG

Small Bearing Seperator Fitted to Herald Stub Axle.JPG

Famous Toledo Good Quality set of larger Bearing Seperator.JPG

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If you buy/win the cheap set just be careful of the female threads in the bearing clamps I found them rough and hard to screw the extension bars in, they're UNC in my set and I ran a tap thro them a lot of swarf came out now they run/thread easy, a cheap and easy fix. The Famous Toledo clamp as you would expect were as supplied perfect. 

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Bearing inner races are hardened, I`ve had results with a small grinder wheel cutting enough of the Notch to get a Chisel into, a good smack with a hammer with the race suported on a bench anvil usually splits it, removal is then a doddle.

Pete

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22 hours ago, trigolf said:

Alan,

If you're buying the set in the pic, it looks like it's missing the unc nuts for the extension bars. No big deal I suppose...

Gav

 

I’m on my phone so photo relatively small but the nuts appear black, I can see some on the long centre bars? I think!

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On 30/10/2022 at 17:04, daverclasper said:

I guess to refit a bearing on a shaft, it's hitting the top of a strong section of tubing, that's in contact with just the inner race, inner shell, if that makes sense?

Or short piece of tube just larger than shaft diameter on top of the split bearing pullers and press the shaft through pushing from the flange end.

Lot more controllable than hitting with a hammer, l used a flat piece of thick steel with a hole in it instead of a piece of tube.

Also added a drain plug while back cover was off, gasket a bad fit, from one of the usual suspects, bearings and seal sourced from local companies.

Regards

Paul

Regards

Paul

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10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

most just sit bearing on a good vice and drift the shaft and plates  through the bearing , 

Pete

Same or a length of GWI pipe suitably sized for the inner race, I have a selection of different sizes up to 2in.

I wonder if you could use the bearing remover as shown in reverse, ie the two separator plates with their flat surfaces against the bearing and the bridge across the back of the drive flange then screw/pull the bearing into place. Think I'll keep using the vice or GWI drifts!

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On 01/11/2022 at 20:46, Peter Truman said:

Same or a length of GWI pipe suitably sized for the inner race, I have a selection of different sizes up to 2in.

I wonder if you could use the bearing remover as shown in reverse, ie the two separator plates with their flat surfaces against the bearing and the bridge across the back of the drive flange then screw/pull the bearing into place. Think I'll keep using the vice or GWI drifts!

Exactly! Use the old inner race as the contact surfaceED0BE8A4-8A50-47F8-8045-5F0B8150B834.thumb.jpeg.d6aa95161e111941148853280d3a64be.jpeg

8A350035-90BF-40ED-824A-1B7591293C09.jpeg

82104776-5C37-4413-A137-FBD1A0566AC7.jpeg

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