Dust boot for front vertical link?

[gt6j]

Hi, after bit of help

hit a pothole in the dark last week with old looking greased trunnions I'm going to have a go at replacing both front sides today and some other bits, shocks springs (std) and bushes etc.

Can't work out of there's supposed to be a rubber boot or seal at the bit between trunnion and vertical link thread..? Will ep90 them after. Cheers.

[Pete Lewis]

yes  item 56

Front Suspension : Canley Classics

 

EP 90  perfect   even EP 140   

Pete

[gt6j]

Cheers Pete 👍

[gt6j]

Any advice on trunnion bushes? Ones I've bought are black plastic and too big for the trunnion.. had to saw one back out.

Read somewhere that this is common problem, but can't see if fitting poly superflex one is an option.

[Pete Lewis]

for stability a solid/hard bush is best on the trunnions 

long time since i did these but from memory black are not small chassis triumphs  normal plastic ones used to be blue 

sorry that may be a bum steer but if they didnt fit they are wrong should be a hand push fit 

where did they come from ????

Pete

[johny]

12 minutes ago, gt6j said:

Any advice on trunnion bushes? Ones I've bought are black plastic and too big for the trunnion.. had to saw one back out.

Read somewhere that this is common problem, but can't see if fitting poly superflex one is an option.

Heres one offering and although much more expensive than the plastic type the metal tube is stainless so you should never have problems again with the bolt rusting solidly inside it...

James Paddock Limited - Triumph Stag, Spitfire, TR6, TR7, GT6, Vitesse, Herald Parts and Spares Specialists. FRONT TRUNION POLY BUSH KIT AXLE SET SPIT/GT6/HER/VIT (SUPERFLEX)(514191P)

[Pete Lewis]

Superflex  (Christ Witor)  are always a good recommended supplier  who understand bush hardness  and kits have the lubrication sachet (most dont do that )

should be fine 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

50 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

a hand push fit 

Ooo! Matron!

I had to take my vice off the bench to perused some to  be squeezed in! 

Doug

[Pete Lewis]

Now we know you have some vices   ha !

i would agree poly are not so easy as the plastic ones 

one reason superflex generally have the sachet of lubricating paste to aid fitment 

Pete

[gt6j]

Yeah really had to wrestle them in cant of been right ones, i did read somewhere usa forum that theres some issue with sizing?? I have ordered set of polys for the trunnion now thanks for link johny. Think the kit I ordered was Canleys but I could be wrong and maybe ordered for wrong model (ordered lots of small bits various).

Other superflex bushes went in but very tight, should there be much free play in the wishbones by hand when nothing else attached? Mine not super stiff, but wouldn't say they are free moving with polys in

 

[johny]

Yes Ive just replaced mine with a plastic kit from Mevs spares which went in very easy. Theyre common for all the small chassis cars so I wonder if you were using the ones for the back which do look very similar... 

[gt6j]

Well cheers again for help managed to get 1 side of suspension sorted but have no idea how supposed to replace the left side steering rack bush?? U-bolt hits engine block as lift it up cant wiggle it out, maybe I'm missing something..

[johny]

Probably need to jack engine, undo its mounts and raise it sufficiently to get the u clamp out...

[chrishawley]

It might be worth a check that the sump is not resting on the steering rack which might imply sagging of the left rubber engine mounting. The clearance between the rebate in the sump and the SR is ordinarily slender and can only diminish in service.

That excluded: The official Triumph method for removing the left SR bracket was: Take weight on engine on hoist, undo and remove two bolts securing left engine mounting to turret, raise engine sufficient that SR bracket can be removed.

If no hoist then jacking the engine would have to do; but with great caution about where lift is applied (e.g. not in the middle of the sump pan (etc)).

[gt6j]

OK again thanks for info, think will have to give engine a jack as no hoist!

Is there an ideal place to do this? Not done it before.. Probably need about 1" to get the u-bolt out, it's got some clearance when all together but not loads. Mounts look OK. 

[Clive]

I just use a rubber jack pad on my trolly jack (which are just ice hockey pucks) But a bit of wood will work, almost anything at least 4" square or bigger. Placed under the sump and lift away. Not sure a scissor jack is ideal.

[Colin Lindsay]

Spread the load under the sump with a large and solid piece of wood; here I'd be inclined to jack the front area of the sump, to put upwards force where it needs to be, rather than the entire engine. Not too much, you dont want to strain or damage the rear mountings. Once you free the rack mounting, even by a quarter inch up off the chassis, the rubber mount will slide out sideways and can be removed. 

[Paul H]

In addition to jacking the sump i loosened the offsite engine mount . 

Paul 

[gt6j]

Great thanks for the tips, managed to get it out after raising (as advice above) from under sump and lossening those two hidden nuts on the left engine mount. Was tricky to get u bolt back in so did shorten the u bolt threads a bit to help and lossened both rack sides before tightening up. Will take out for spin the weekend hopefully and see if it's taken the slack out of the wheel 👍 

[Pete Lewis]

often free play at the handwheel  is down to UJ bushes worn or the rack needs a shim removing 

how much free play at the stg wheel ????

Pete

[gt6j]

I was wondering about the uj as it looks really tired (but not sure if that means no good! 😄)

It had bit of play and both bushes were well gone. Was considering replacing uj with one from rimmers and possibly the lower shaft at same time both look quite corroded at the uj. 

[NonMember]

When re-fitting the rack mounts it's important to clamp the U-bolt things toward the flanges on the rack while fitting, so that the rubber bushes are slightly compressed. Otherwise there'll still be a bit of unwanted movement in the rack.

[Peter Truman]

1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:

often free play at the handwheel  is down to UJ bushes worn

Pete

I replaced the worn UJ bushes with some Poly units ex UK ebay only to find out the 8 piece kit was locally Aus made by SuperPro, not cheap at $51Aus, but a good quality item. In the 80's I replaced the Vitesse steering joint UJ bushes with suitably sized plastic cable grommets cut in half and the surplus raised section of the annulus bit that fits the hole in the car body was cut flush. They worked well with no play, but when I found the Superpro fit for purpose engineered option I upgraded a couple of years ago, the old grommit units had squashed a bit over 30 years! The kit is SPF1197K

[daverclasper]

17 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

I replaced the Vitesse steering joint UJ bushes with suitably sized plastic cable grommets cut in half and the surplus raised section of the annulus bit that fits the hole in the car body was cut flush. They worked well

Wow, I'm no engineer, though suprised they were up to job, as I assume they must take a lot of strain

[Clive]

1 hour ago, gt6j said:

I was wondering about the uj as it looks really tired (but not sure if that means no good! 😄)

It had bit of play and both bushes were well gone. Was considering replacing uj with one from rimmers and possibly the lower shaft at same time both look quite corroded at the uj. 

The lower column is decent steel, so if you don't like teh appearance, pop it out, a quick rub down and repaint.It will outlast any repro part (if they are even made)

The solid UJs are a lottery. I have had brand new ones that had excessive play at first use. The best I have found is the cast T2000 joint from Chris Witor, but I have also used the superpro polybush kit.