t-stag Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 Hi. Rejoined TSSC after 45 year gap! Bought another Vitesse Mk II O/D Convertible as a lockdown project. As can be seen from my account photos, the Vitesse is completely stripped down. Now starts the long process of restoration. First, I need some advice on the chassis. This was a MOT failure due to rust. A lot of it is solid though. 1. What is the best blasting process to use? Sand, bead, etc. 2. How do you clean/protect inside the box sections? Wouldn't want it to rust inside out later on. Wax oyl? 3. What anti-rust finish to apply that still allows welding? High zinc primer? 4. Where to buy side chassis rails, outriggers, rear chassis extensions, body to chassis fitting kit? Prices seem to vary a lot. 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-stag Posted February 13 Author Report Share Posted February 13 5. What type of welding is required. 6. Any recommendations for these services in East Sussex area. If anyone has been through this process around East Sussex, I would be glad to have a chat. Thanks all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 (edited) 2/ Once you have restored the chassis, the best protectinwpuld be galvanising it. That involves a dip, so.some protection inside the rails. BUT covering it in zinc can make it rather heavy! 3/ use "weld through" ( or weld-thru?) Primer. 1/ doesn't matter - this doesn't require a delicate process! But be prepared to have a set of lace rails returned to.you! 5/ haven't done this recently so no idea. 6/ welding? Good welding! TiG unnecessary, MiG or gas fine, but few body shops do gas any more. John Edited February 13 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 I got my chassis shot blasted, repair sections welded in, then dip galvanized inside and out. Then etch primed and two pack painted. Then waxoiled. It'll never fail an MOT on rust!🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Flinn Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 (edited) 1 hour ago, t-stag said: Answers adjacent Hi. Rejoined TSSC after 45 year gap! Bought another Vitesse Mk II O/D Convertible as a lockdown project. As can be seen from my account photos, the Vitesse is completely stripped down. Now starts the long process of restoration. First, I need some advice on the chassis. This was a MOT failure due to rust. A lot of it is solid though. 1. What is the best blasting process to use? Sand, bead, etc. - Check out local sand blasters in your area, I had mine done on a farm, the farmer was doing it as a sideline, not sure what media they used I'm afraid but you don't want anything too harsh! 2. How do you clean/protect inside the box sections? Wouldn't want it to rust inside out later on. Wax oyl? - You can't really clean inside, I uses Dinitrol 3125 rustproofer and a proper applicator/compressor, Dynax S50 is good too and you can get the Aerosol cans with long applicators that work well, the can needs shaking and warming for a while in hot water. 3. What anti-rust finish to apply that still allows welding? High zinc primer? - Weld through Primer is probably best, I used a Zinc Phosphate primer hand painted then machine enamel, but this was after all the welding was completed. 4. Where to buy side chassis rails, outriggers, rear chassis extensions, body to chassis fitting kit? Prices seem to vary a lot. - I would Recommend Chic Doig in Scotland, his Outriggers are excellent quality and slightly heavier duty, he also does a good range of repair Panels too 5. What type of welding is required. - MIG Welding seems to be the favourite and easiest if your having a go yourself, get some training and practice in though if you've never welded before? 6. Any recommendations for these services in East Sussex area. - No idea, I'm in Derbyshire, sorry Good luck with it and keep us posted on progress Here's a photo of what it could look like for inspiration☺️ Gary 1 hour ago, t-stag said: Edited February 13 by Gary Flinn 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 13 Report Share Posted February 13 1 hour ago, t-stag said: 2. How do you clean/protect inside the box sections? Wouldn't want it to rust inside out later on. Wax oyl? 4. Where to buy side chassis rails, outriggers, rear chassis extensions, body to chassis fitting kit? Prices seem to vary a lot. I used to stand chassis on their ends; well, boot outriggers much higher than the front, and pour Jenolite down the inside. Then turn it upside down and repeat! I also do this with Waxoyl; tons of it sprayed into the boot outriggers and through every hole along the main rails, and then same again turn it upside down and repeat. It will leak out for ages, but you know it's covered. Chic Doig makes repair sections for the main rails, and all outriggers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark powell Posted February 14 Report Share Posted February 14 I used Sussex Blast Cleaning ltd in Hailsham for all my pickup treatment, chassis and body sections. I got them to clean the body before l carried out all the repairs, I welded the chassis repairs and then had it blasted and primed by them in two pack epoxy. Discuss prices with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-stag Posted February 16 Author Report Share Posted February 16 Hi Guys. Thank you for all your comments, very helpful. The chassis is very heavy to move on its own! Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 9 minutes ago, t-stag said: The chassis is very heavy to move on its own thats where rent a crowd come in handy you will need a spare pair of hands and maybe a few beers handy !! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 If you find a source of replacement rear lever damper shock mounts I would be interested. I have a build up a replacement chassis for my Mk2 from a 13/60 one. Yes I know I can change to telescopic but I want the chassis correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 As to Waxoyl, have moved to Bilt & Harmer products. Regards Paul. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 18 minutes ago, 68vitesse said: As to Waxoyl, have moved to Bilt & Harmer products. Regards Paul. Another vote for Bilthamber Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-stag Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 Progress of a sort! I'm an engineer (retired) so I like to do some research before tackling a problem and try to find a good solution. I've received a quote from Sussex Blast Cleaning for £600 plus transport costs to blast and zinc prime the chassis. Of course this doesn't do anything for the rust inside the box sections. Advised not to get the body parts blasted as this distorts the thinner metal. Recommended to use Surface Processing Ltd in Dudley, West Midlands, for their chemical dipping process. Their quote for the chassis was for £834 again plus transport costs, not local this time so man & van for 400 mile round trip twice. Made sense to get the rest of the body parts done at the same time, but total cost of about £4K including transport. So not economic for me. Discussed these issues with a couple of local classic car restoration garages and their advice was to clean up the chassis myself, cut out the rust, get the welding done, then protect the chassis inside and out. So started using paint stripper, wire brush, scraper, electric drill with wire brushes. Lots of elbow grease, but quite satisfying when all is revealed. Various protections have been recommended which I will research: Dinitrol, Waxoyl or Bilt Hamber; Kurust; Jenolite; Hammerite Underbody Seal; Zinc Primer; Red Oxide; and more. Advised to drill a few holes in the chassis box sections, top and bottom, to inject the rust proofing with a 360° lance. Then fit rubber grommets in the holes after protection. Makes any repeat protection easy. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-stag Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 What you find beneath the underseal. Some really badly welded plates, probably done to get through a MOT. They will have to come off to see what lurks under them! A lot of the chassis is solid, just hard work cleaning it all up a bit at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 That looks like a big welding project! With respect, have you considered trying to find another chassis in better condition? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 and i dont think that would pass the current MOT reqd for welded patches they seem to want a complete plate now not a jigsaw Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-stag Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 Tried looking for a replacement chassis, but couldn't find anything guaranteed to be solid. A few 'projects' available not any better than mine. The patches will all come off, any bad metal cut out and new sections made. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now