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** 26/02/23 Heading Up ** Probably how not to restore a Herald!


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On 7/31/2018 at 12:50 PM, Bordfunker said:

Phil, many thanks for the kind words and encouragement

 

Karl, you are welcome. I look forward to seeing more

 

Like Karl and Paul (and probably many others on the forum) I would also strongly encourage mig ownership.

With a little guidance and lots of practice you'd be amazed at what you could achieve! Sometimes it won't be pretty but provided the penetration is there you can grind away the mess!

I would recommend gas rather than gas-less and don't waste your money on disposable bottles as its a false economy....as I found to my cost☹️

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Another vote for the "get a MIG" camp here. For a random aside... our cooker hob (gas) is a bit prone to being too hot for simmering. It's OK if you hold the pan an inch above it but not directly on the frame. "Ah!", thought I, "easily fixed". An hour's cutting, welding, grinding and a coat of barbecue paint later, we have a thing to sit on the hob to raise the pan by an inch. ?

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Given the current weather I haven't been as keen as I normally would be to get in the garage and carry on welding, so have limited myself to a couple of hours on Saturday and Sunday, so as not to end up a shrivelled dehydrated smudge on the garage floor.

So I started off where I left off last week, namely the repair panel between the B-pillar and the rear arch on the passenger side, which I had completed most of the welding on last week, but not quite all.

This is where I left it last week.

ISnmAs.jpg

You can see the horrible seam weld that I had to use when the Halfords weld through primer proved that it wasn't!

This got a tidy up with the angle grinder, both the seam at the top, and the joint with the remains of the rear wing.

lL5C5q.jpg

Overall much neater, but I still need to straighten up the top seam, but at least this will be covered by the sill.

However, being me I got a little too ambitious in grinding back the lower seam, and managed to grind through it, which I then compounded by blowing through while trying to weld it!

O6ItVW.jpg

Oh well it's all practise, and within 5 minutes was fixed.

4S7wxc.jpg

I've still got a bit of a lip between the repair panel and the rear wing, which I have managed to get down to around 0.5mm, which I can then cover with a thin skim of filler, much better than the 5mm of filler that was there previously if nothing more, and at least the panel is now solid steel.

I also seam welded the joint between the panel and rear arch.

r2EOlE.jpg

I've managed to build in a slight step towards the rear of the panel where it meets the arch, but again nothing that can't be fixed with a skim of filler.

Mzgp4i.jpg

So not perfect, which is annoying, but I'm treating this as a learning curve, so things can only get better right?

Karl

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Following on from yesterday's update which chronicled Saturday's activities, on Sunday I sorted out the missing section of wheel arch.

This is pretty much where I started out.

0fJh0h.jpg

Given the position of the piece that needed to be removed I wasn't going to attempt cutting it out with an angle grinder, so went for a more controlled approach drilling out the edge of the area to be removed.

LvsrI1.jpg

Which then allowed me to fold the flap down and cut it out with a junior hacksaw.

ixxAPW.jpg

Note the rust between the inner wheel arch and outer lip.

If I was being really anal I could drill out the spot welds, split the wing away from the inner arch and clean it all up, but instead I think I will simply douse everything in rust stopper as the rust appears to be surface only and not structural.

I did clean up the area under the repair patch, before trying the repair patch for size.

xZjWgA.jpg

This was after about 15 minutes of tweaking with files and flap discs, slowly adjusting the fit, allowing me to clamp it up ready for welding.

czqdJD.jpg

Given how thin the metal is on the Herald I used a stitch technique for the welding, pulsing the welder rather than applying a continuous bead, as this reduces the chance of blow through, and only doing about an inch at a time, before cooling the area down with compressed air from the air compressor.

CIde0N.jpg

As you can see I also plug welded the repair section to the inner lip of the wheel arch, which, without Halfords weld through primer, worked perfectly this time.

This was then cooled and cleaned up with a 40 grit flap disc in the angle grinder, leaving me with this.

bxbJvA.jpg

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Overall much happier with that than the B-pillar repair section as the fit is much flusher overall, and will need little in the way of filler to tidy it all up.

That pretty much finishes up the welding on the rear passenger side of the car, and leaves me feeling more confident about returning to the welding on the bulkhead, which I can't put off any longer.

Karl

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  • 1 month later...

It's been a few weeks since I last posted, mainly due to picking up a virus which took weeks to shift, and left we with a serious mojo deficit when it came to working on the car.

This wasn't helped by discovering that one of the chassis welds had cracked, leaving me with concerns for the rest of the welds, therefore I then spent a couple of weeks practising my welding to ensure that I was happy that my welds were consistently strong.

All of which has meant only starting to make progress on the car again this weekend, focussing on grinding back the existing welds to check for cracks, before re-welding all the joints on the chassis.

9DB5ax.jpg

VcylBK.jpg

At least with all the practice my welding has improved, and bouncing up and down on the freshly welded chassis has caused no further cracking.

I've still got the front driver's corner of the chassis to finish, after which I'll give the chassis a thorough degrease, followed by a coat of epoxy primer.

The aim after that is to drop the gearbox and check the condition of the clutch, as well as the condition of the rear engine oil seal, as I figure now is the easiest time for me to do this.

Karl 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I had hoped to get back into the garage last weekend, but managed to pick up a cold from my boss! I wouldn't mind so much but I felt fine by Monday morning, what a waste of a weekend!

However with the cold now gone, Mrs B off to the north for the weekend, no more excuses, time to get into the garage and actually do some work.

Nothing for it but to finish up the chassis welding, which with yesterday's lovely weather was a complete joy with the garage door open, however I didn't bother taking any pics of the chassis welding, as if you've seen one bit of chassis welding on a Herald, you've seen them all.

I did however take pics of all the other stuff, some of which those of a delicate nature may find distressing.

The 'other stuff' was the underside of the bulkhead area, which was covered in a thick coating of under seal, which I attacked with a wire brush in the angle grinder, over a period of several hours, which left me with this.....

Q8ozTJ.jpg

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...it also left me with a whole load of black gritty dust all over the garage, which left me feeling grateful for having a worn a mask and goggles, even if I do end up looking like a minion!

As expected the driver's side looked to be in better shape than the passenger side, with much less surface pitting...

n5ltcM.jpg

....however removal of the under seal removed some horrors.

This is the rearmost chassis mount on the driver's side of the bulkhead, which had looked perfectly serviceable, but which turns out to have significant rot.

9TycPF.jpg

Cue that sinking feeling.

Worse still is that the double skinned section behind the mounting point has started to rot out like the passenger side!

Removal of the under seal over the forward chassis attachment revealed more tin worm....

gQU2BZ.jpg

.....as well a holing of the mounting itself.

I then decided to take a peak behind the mounting itself......

GDXPUg.jpg

.......I really wish I hadn't!

Removal of the mill board alongside the accelerator peddle revealed the full extent of the rot.

4JG6og.jpg

Oh dear, deja vu all over again! And I've still to finish the repairs to the passenger side!

At least now I know that Chic Doig make a replacement section for this area, so rather than attempting to fabricate my own, I'll take the sensible route on the driver's side.

With all the paint and under seal stripped off, nothing else to do but give both sides a coat of the FE 123 rust stopper.

FP5B3V.jpg

e3oksF.jpg

I couldn't find a paintbrush for the FE 123, so tried a mini roller, which worked far better, with fewer drips and runs, and was much faster.

It's always depressing to find rot where you thought there wasn't any, but I figure now is the best time to find, when everything is accessible, and I don't have to face the prospect of undoing my own previous repairs.

Karl

 

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9 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:

Oh dear! :(

I had an MOT advisory last year "Excessive underseal" Oh dear, oh dear :( 

Doug

YOU WHAT?????

My 1200 was caked in the flaming stuff, right up the engine sump, side valences,  bonnet adjusters, brake pipes, springs, shocks, everything. Took me ages to get it all off, and sometimes it came off in huge chunks like tarmac. It came with an MOT, but then it also had a seized front brake caliper and a chassis made from Swiss cheese...

1765144004_engineos.JPG.496095fbd6934103ef87f8590a18be4d.JPG

  • Haha 1
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Colin, that sounds a lot like mine chassis wise, air coated in under seal!

At least the suspension on mine wasn’t coated in the stuff as well.

I ordered a repair panel from Chic Doig for the passenger side today, as I’ve given up on making my own now that I know you can buy them ready made.

Karl

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Thats why mine 64vit6 ended up like a jigsaw  but on the bright side back in 1965ish  my 59 948 had no side rail and no body mounts 

The front two had long disappeared to rot ,  7 years old and rotten as socks   even the rear bumper panels had giant rust bubbles  so after all these years whats a few holes   H a!!

Pete

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