dougbgt6 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 BW, My box of blade fuses are coloured like this, (25 amp is clear, which is not very clear on the picture!) What came with the "Chinese loom" was red. What colour is your 40 amp? It looks like a paler version of 3 amp in the picture? Not a good idea I would have thought. Calculation, trial and error and other peoples experience makes me think 10 amp sufficient for my headlights, which are halogen. As we've already discussed, there was previously NO high and low beam fuse! That's why you bought the "Chinese loom" The light switch is still unfused, but now operating head light relays at very low current. It also supplies the red fuse, which is a...…..fuse. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Doug - My 'Chinese Loom' fuse is pink and has 40embossed on the spine, which is a bit of a give away, and also what concerned me as I think that the cable will fry before the fuse. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 I blame it on Fumanchu. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Charlie Chan say Chinese character for 10 is db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig113 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 i'm following this thread as i want to do the same. i already have the headlight/relay wiring as well, mine has a green 30a fuse... paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Ludwig, Hm, I think BW is correct, they're just sticking in whatever comes to hand. Although, I suppose it works on all sorts of cars with all sorts of lights, requiring different fuses. Mine was sold as for a Triumph and came with 10 amp. fuse. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ludwig113 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 3 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Ludwig, Hm, I think BW is correct, they're just sticking in whatever comes to hand. Although, I suppose it works on all sorts of cars with all sorts of lights, requiring different fuses. Mine was sold as for a Triumph and came with 10 amp. fuse. Doug you could be right. it says my wiring is for H4 bulbs. paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 H4 is the big chunky connector. db 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Entertaining this isn't it. I never thought that my ignorance of electrics would cause so much interest. In years gone by it would have been a scotchlok under the dash for any wire with power to feed 4 x 100wt spots. Now I want to make it safer its become a major issue. One more question, using Doug's layout (I think it was Doug's, could have been Aidan!!! - loosing the will etc) can I combine the courtesy lights, horn and hazards (when I fit the unit) on to one fuse leaving an empty fuse to feed the headlight relays with a 10 or 20amp fuse. Then that's it, off we go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Not sure what you mean here BW when you say headlight relays. Do you mean the link through the relays to the head lights or do you mean the current to operate the relays? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 The link that powers the actual light bulbs, that is wired to a permanent live, currently through my 40a fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted June 18, 2019 Report Share Posted June 18, 2019 Hi, If I was fusing headlamps. I would start with two rather large fuses and then smaller ones for each side. Would like a low resistance short to kill only one side of the car's headlamps, not both. Cheers, Iain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 On the headlight relay kit I have, the relays are operated by the original switches, but the main power for both main beam and dip comes from a new supply lead to the relay unit from a permanent live. The relays then switch this to the bulbs as needed. It is this main power lead that I want to fuse through the new box rather than an in line fuse (in this case, as mentioned earlier, the kit was fitted with a 40amp fuse) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Posted June 19, 2019 Report Share Posted June 19, 2019 My rewire used the same box as Aiden and went to carbuildersolutions for the cables using amperage rated cables rather than size thus removing any ambiguity. Fleebay headlight relay mounted behind the headlight. Worst problem was stripping out superfluous wiring and working out PO wiring errors i.e. permanent live to the heater fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted June 20, 2019 Report Share Posted June 20, 2019 OK, so I have been and gone and done it and documented my efforts on my restoration thread. Thank you so much to everyone who have answered all my enquires and shown such great patience with my ignorance. I just hope that everything is alright with the job and that it is now safer than it was. Aiden, I could not have done it without your inspiration or the help from EVERYONE else. THANK YOU ALL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 On 13/06/2019 at 11:32, Colin Lindsay said: I haven't replaced fuses in the GT6's original 3-fuse box since about 2005... nothing ever seems to blow, short or otherwise give bother. Cancel my last. Just blew eight this evening; no idea what's causing it but it's the top fuse, temperature and fuel gauge etc. As I may be stuck at home for some time I'm now debating fitting a new fuse box in behind the dash leaving the old one as a dummy, and splitting the cables to individual fuses. Thankfully the Mk1 has spade connectors to the rear of the fuses so easy to remove. I'm going to need a huge coffee / beer / vodka whilst I peruse all the threads and see what the best fuse box is, or the required amperage of fuses, unless there's a sticky somewhere? I'm a basic autoelectrician and both I and the car are allergic to fire. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AidanT Posted March 24, 2020 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Damn it, I should have got shares in that fuse box manufacturer 😁 Aidan 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 The one with the spade terminals to the rear wouldn't suit mine, one like this would do except it's from China and so not sure if it would ever reach me in this current climate: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automotive-10-Way-Circuit-Blade-Fuse-Box-Block-Holder-LED-Warning-Light-Kit-FAST/392498849474?hash=item5b62c126c2:g:5JoAAOSw0l9a1HKF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted March 24, 2020 Report Share Posted March 24, 2020 Try one of the UK suppliers? One of them may not penalise you for having to send over the water. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/fuses-and-fuse-boxes#/pageSize=20&viewMode=grid&orderBy=15 https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/63 https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/fuse-boxes.html And so on. But on my MK3 spit, the previous owner has fitted a 6 way (or is it 8?) rear connector fusebox in the same place as the original. Looks very neat, and access for rapid fuse changing is good. And really Colin, if the first replacement fuse you fit blows, that is a clue that there is a problem that needs fixing. Out with the multimeter. And wiring diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 12 hours ago, clive said: And really Colin, if the first replacement fuse you fit blows, that is a clue that there is a problem that needs fixing. Out with the multimeter. And wiring diagram. That's today's job, Clive. I just can't do anything right at the moment... so have to undo all of my last few jobs and work out what I did that's caused a short. Last job I did on this circuit was to set the park on the wiper motor; I also tightened up the steering column clamp which may have nipped one of the indicator stalk cables. The fuse blows as soon as the ignition is turned on, so it's something that's already live, and of course - I suspected the newly fitted radio, and removed the entire thing to no avail... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 Colin, temp, fuel and wiper motor are on the same fuse, the one with green wire. I suspect your tinkerings with the wiper motor. Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 15 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said: Colin, temp, fuel and wiper motor are on the same fuse, the one with green wire. I suspect your tinkerings with the wiper motor. Doug So do I, Doug - I cleaned it recently, regreased it and painted the body, then replaced it... all worked ok but the park wasn't ideal so I rotated the top cover until the wiper stopped in the best place, and thought that was it done. The radio I just fitted was also on the same circuit, and of course I blamed it - it took me until last night to realise that even with it all disconnected, I still blew fuses. I'm running out of 17 / 35 fuses so have only four chances today to get it right. I've ordered more online but they'll not arrive until tomorrow. ...and YES!! We have a winner! take a bow, Doug - I've just restarted the car with the wiper motor disconnected, and no blown fuse. Now all I have to do is work out why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 I had one like that on the Spitfire which turned out to be the reverse light switch on the gearbox cover, oriented so that the crimp terminals were pressed against the casing. One day it was fine, the next day the terminal had poked through the plastic boot and shorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 Got it. I think. The park cable has shorted out against the body, it looks brittle and must have been stretched when I rotated the cover. I'll resleeve it and hopefully that will cure the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 25, 2020 Report Share Posted March 25, 2020 Hmm... that would definitely cause problems but I'd expect just that the wipers run continuously rather than blowing a fuse. The usual culprit for those early wiper motors blowing fuses would be connecting the wires to the wrong (unmarked) terminals. I think that swapping the two that aren't obviously earth will blow the fuse when the motor has turned far enough to activate the self-park - or in your case, immediately, given that shorted wire. That said, my experience is with a Mk3 Spitfire with the single speed wiper motor. If you have the two-speed DR3A on your GT6 then it may be different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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