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Made these yesterday


ahebron
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Cold wet sunday, what better to do than make a couple of tools that I dont need but will make the jobs easier in the future.

Longest part of the whole thing was finding the  metal to make them out of.

I had an old aluminium light 5/8" to 1 1/8" spigot lying round so I made the large one out of that with some roll pins.

The smaller one was made from an 1" bar.

I knurled both more for effect than practicality and painted them with Rustoluem Soft Iron.

Rather pleased with myself.

I also filled the borer holes in my dash with resin so thats all sealed up now.

Vitesse tools.jpg

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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

Switch ring nuts ?

Spot on Pete.

Large one is for the push/pull/twist switches on the Vitesse 6, a diferent size at each end.

The smaller one also guessed by NonMember is for the ignition switch on the same car.

Bugger paying over 20 quid for them

Now I just need to put them somewhere I will remember :unsure:

I like that idea for a game John, I might have a few more homemade specials to post up.

 

Adrian

 

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No, it was to make a new part.   Probably unfair to expect you to guess!

I'm fitting dual throttle cables, and was making a base plate for the  bulkhead, that is screwed to the bulkhead by spire clips    Two rings to center the cable outers and avoid wearing the cable itself.   It was therefore important that the rings are centered on the cable hole.

It's a jig, turned down from bar to fit inside the rings, with a knib on the end that goes into the plate hole.   Clamped together, I tack welded the rings to the plate.

here's the finished part and the complete installation

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Ah, that will be for your motorsporting requirements - I seem to remember when I did 12 cars and a few other events that dual springs were required - though when I did some RTV's in my LR Discovery 3 I was exempted from that being as it was fly by wire (Does have 2 pots from memory though!)

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No point guessing as the only photos I have are of it in use, but I was impressed with when it was finished.

Some of you may have seen these on another site I rarely frequent these days that has deleted them since an upgrade.

 

Adrian

 

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Wow!   HEAVY duty 'adjustment' for door jamb spread!  But how will you keep it where you want it?

One of my Vitesses began to suffer from tub sag, so I put a four inch ratchet strap around it, bulkhead to tail lights, and tightened the strap unitl it was right.     A short strut from the OE seat belt anchor point on the rear window frame to the upright of the roll-over hoop fixed it in place - see (poor) pic.

But that's not available if you have no roll cage.

John

Vitesse wing anchor point.jpg

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Hi John

Havent thought much much about how to keep it in place.

It is a body off rebuild using solid mounts so maybe that will help.

The tub lay about for many years off the chassis which didnt help.

Maybe it will spread again in another 40 years but I wont be round to see:P

I wasnt that keen on using straps round the body as the physics didnt look good to me . All I needed was the pulling ram as I had the portapower already plus plenty of scrap steel

 

Adrian

 

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2 hours ago, PeteH said:

What is the final dimension. When back to "Factory Spec"?.. My Rear tub is currently Laid on it`s side on the Garage Floor with only some rubber mat. eeek!.

Pete

Maybe on its side it wont spread?

I used the internationally recognised eyeometer spec for setting my tub spread.

I used the doors to set the shape of the tub, if it is the same as the doors then it is ok, assuming your doors are in good nick.

Far to much changes in these cars over years of decay to start using factory measurements as an exact science best used as a rough target.

I also had to over crank then release as the body has some spring in it, this resulted in the tub cracking on a seam and some horrendous noises.

tub crack JPG.JPG

Edited by ahebron
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Hi Adrian , re your body tub spreader setup, is the body attached to the chassis ? Any chance of a more detailed pic of how the brackets fit the B post . Pity you are not in the UK as I’m sure there would be a rental market for a bit of kit like that . Lastly what is the rating of the ram ?

Paul 

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I agree to the noises of much complaining old fabrications being returned to base camp,  it took a  LOT of over pull and spring back to get it parallel  with the door/ flush   from a distant grey memory i think the flange to flange top of the  B post wing was 46.5" it doesnt matter much its a case of pull till the Bpost and door become flush with each other ,

body mounts were out and loads of packing refitted of all sizes to get a wonky body on a nice straight chassis

Pete

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1 hour ago, Paul H said:

Hi Adrian , re your body tub spreader setup, is the body attached to the chassis ? Any chance of a more detailed pic of how the brackets fit the B post . Pity you are not in the UK as I’m sure there would be a rental market for a bit of kit like that . Lastly what is the rating of the ram ?

Paul 

Hi Pual

Yes body is fixed to the chassis using solid stainless steel mounts , a 6mm spacer then large diameter o/d penny washers to adjust the gap

The ram is 5 ton but the pump is only 4 ton.

I buuilt it like this so I could adjust each side individually as I believe a ratchet around the body would pull both sides when only one might need adjusting.

I over cranked it a bit on one side so I put the pusher ram and spread it back out a bit.

The chassis and tub on my car are late 13/60 so it has the centre seatbelt bolts on the side of the tunnel attaching to the chassis.

I have attached the rest of the photos of the jig showing how it is attached.

The mount on the B post fixes to the lock plate, top seat belt mount and the B pillar extension to roof lower bolt 

To make this work on my convertible I will need to modify the B pillar mounts 

The fornt tower brace to the handbrake pivot might not be needed but as it was available I used it.

 

Thanks

Adrian

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Edited by ahebron
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On 5/15/2018 at 10:06 PM, Pete Lewis said:

well it beats my adhoc very cheap   made of odds and sods idea 

Pete

bodytub.jpg

Funny thing is my original idea was to do somehting similar to your but using hydraulics converting pushing motion into pulling motion by sliding bars fixed like yours past each other on a pushing ram which I had.

I do like the odds and sods method you have used, it just proves that you dont need the stupid amount of work I put into what is in effect a one off tool for my car.

Unfortunately I have a habit of going a bit to far when making car parts or tools and rather sadly I get great enjoyment out of it.

I also have the philosophy of if I need a tool once I will need it again so lets go and buy it or make it rather than borrow which is something I dislike doing:(

Adrian

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If the BPost  spread  waist moves ouwards I guess this will close up the boot width

Tub spread normally shows as bottom/rear edge of the door is always proud of the B panel ie large gap to the seal flange along the cill

And the seal is crushed hard at the waist

When we pulled mine on the rear deck panel started to bow  it needed around  2" of pull to gain a 5/8" spread reduction

So its very possible ,  that the tub pivots about the deck 

Lots of thoughts on why the spread occurs , but ageism  must be a factor 

Pete

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4 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

thats why we have cupboards full of stuff we forgot we have had 

yesturday i found a 3 legged puller , i have no idea where it was from , might have save Gully buying one when we replaced his rotoflex hub bearings ...you cant win 

Pete

Haha! Does that mean mine is going to be repatriated into my cupboard where I can forget I've got it?! ?

Gully

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Hello All

                Not all made yesterday! first one will be easy the others maybe less so

I can not remember what the last one is for(not what it does)

I have loads of home made tools(the word is used loosely!)

Various plugs in different sizes to press bearings in and out,

The trouble is a lot are for motorcycles and other cars etc(I just wish I knew what they are for)

I know a new game and you can all tell me what it is for?

Roger

 

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