Jump to content

Rear brake adjusters on a GT6 Mk 3


Kevin.payne.15

Recommended Posts

Hi Kevin, Dont bother as they dont work anyway. Disconnect hand brake cables, make sure cylinders slide ok, then adjust the self adjusters by hand untill you can just get the drum on.Then refit the cables to the levers. This is the only way you will get proper brake adjustment :)  And it works every time.

Tony.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sadly I agree with Tony, they don't work! The levers get bent and the correct shape is impossible to get back. Adjustment is then, wheel and drum off, rotate the ratchet, drum back on, apply the brakes, rotate the drum, does it bind? Repeat until it binds, then back it off. Tedious or what! I have considered fitting manual adjusters but it's way down the list.

Doug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 24/02/2019 at 10:30, poppyman said:

Hi Kevin, Dont bother as they dont work anyway. Disconnect hand brake cables, make sure cylinders slide ok, then adjust the self adjusters by hand untill you can just get the drum on.Then refit the cables to the levers. This is the only way you will get proper brake adjustment :)  And it works every time.

Tony.

Yep, the handbrake on our late Mk3 GT6 is ace since Tony showed me how to adjust them.

Bruce 8-)

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

While not directly related to brake adjustment, what I want know is:

a) any ideas where can I get a set of brake operating levers for a non-roto MK3 GT6?  Bearing in mind that they appear to be unavailable now.

b) if completely unavailable then what do people do when they become worn?

c) can you use the roto ones in the non-roto system or are they completely different?

All ideas gratefully received!

Euan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi euan, you can still get the levers think they have been re made, don't know the quality,

their listed for a ford capri, as I think late mk1 capris and cortina 1600E cars used the same systems, escort mexico too I think.

they come up on ebay, theres some on now  item no 181382142554, the little tooth adjusters are also used on the aforementioned cars and they come up too but are expensive.

The right hand ones are still available from rimmers but not the left, you`ll` have to look second hand or as said before they do come up. 

I have bought a couple of spares before for my spares box.

I thought about changing mine over to the manual system, but you cant get the brake backplates now to do this change.

I think ang classic parts also does the levers their about £46.00 for the pair.

 

reman handbrake adjusters - Copy.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

seem to remember that 1500 and 1850 dolomites use same system but adjusters and handbrake levers are at the bottom instead of the top. think the levers and toothed adjusters are the same . dolomite sprints are totally different though that system id based on the sd1 rover. 

tr7 4 speed drums might fit but ive never had  rear wheel set up to try, I think the tr7 5 speed is different again and more like the sd1 set up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, Ian Faulds said:

 I think the tr7 5 speed is different again and more like the sd1 set up.

My recollection from when I had a TR7 is that the 5-speed handbrake mechanism is very similar to the 2000 saloon and Stag. And all three of the ones I had (2500S, Stag, TR7) had duff handbrakes because some DPO (or their back-street garage) had fitted the ratchets backwards. That's also possible on the small car version (GT6, Dolomite) so it's worth a check.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, clive said:

It is possible to swap to manual adjusters, but needs the backplate/drums/adjusters/cylinder/shoes from an earlier GT6/vitesse. 

Unless somebody has worked out a way to jus fit the adjuster and manual cylinder?

 

 

the manual backplate is a totally different pressing to the auto adjust, you need it(man) one to use the man adjusters as the adjusters and shoes wont go near the auto backplate, I tried it years ago and know it wont fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, thanks everyone for their feedback.  I'm now clearer on the options - I won't endeavour to change to manual adjustment, it all seems too complicated.

I've tried everywhere for the levers and got a new RH one, but am told it is always the left one which becomes worn first and needless to say these are unavailable and those that are would be too worn to be of use.  So I think the best way forward is just to manually adjust the handbrake when needed as described above in this topic.

 

Euan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All this casts the mind back to the olde days , my 53 minx had a simple knotched snail cam sits between cyl  and end of shoe

Hole in drum and hole in wheel , so on hands and knees roll car to align holes and slotted screw head on the cam , insert screwdriver and twist 

All done in a few seconds  the only snag came if some plonker fitted the wheel,and blanked the access.

Simpulze  or what ....... progress  just complicates things

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

All this casts the mind back to the olde days , my 53 minx had a simple knotched snail cam sits between cyl  and end of shoe

Hole in drum and hole in wheel , so on hands and knees roll car to align holes and slotted screw head on the cam , insert screwdriver and twist 

All done in a few seconds  the only snag came if some plonker fitted the wheel,and blanked the access.

Simpulze  or what ....... progress  just complicates things

Pete

Pete, My 111C Minx, 61, had the same. To me the handbrake adjustment is the real pain on the Herald based cars, as we all known you have to allow for the camber change. 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Herald spit etc have always been fine, as long as a numpty hasn't played with teh cable to adjust them.

The real pains are the rotoflex cars...... (except mine that uses a pair of bowden type cables direct...they don't notice the change in shaft length, and no compensators etc)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, dave.vitesse said:

 

Clive, Bowden cables sounds a good idea to me.

Dave

They come with MGF callipers and discs... (actually I wish I had used VW callipers as they are alloy and MUCH lighter)

I know somebody who has used drums with bowden cables, a fine idea indeed. I remember the first time I did the brakes on my old GT6 28 years ago....Dropped to the floor and yep, brakes locked on. I reckon I am not the only one...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah  rod brakes, nowt to stretch or whatever,

back when i helped with the Ecurie Ecosse Team Dick had bought a ERA 4B ?  this had rods and a slide compensator 

but every time Wizzo hurled into corner it wanted to leave the track ,  having sat and digested all things whatever it was clear to me the rebuild was incorrect it has a beam front axle and leaf springs  these had a swinging shackle at both ends of the spring . so any change in 

roll altered the steering and the brake rods pulled the axle rewards again alters the stg.

 this is impossible it needs a fixed pivot at one end ...say I 

know one wanted to listen...  hey ho who am I .

pete

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...