johny Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 Well working on the underside of the engine with the sump off is not nice at all. The access is poor, youre laying on your back, its difficult to keep everything clean and what can be done is limited so if thats where the problem is (quite likely) I recommend the engine is best removed from the car. On the other hand the cylinder head can be removed in situ fairly easily and the same goes for the front timing chain cover however you could do all that only to find the engine has to come out anyway😣 This is why it would be soooo useful to have an idea of what the problem is.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 Yes it is so easy to lift our engines out then you pop a new clutch kit in as well 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 a silly question have you taken the fan belt off and spun the fan to check the water pump ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted July 19, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 Yes I have had the fan belt off and run the engine, it’s not the water pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 bugger that would have an easy fix and there's no difference when you push the clutch down still noisy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 19, 2019 Report Share Posted July 19, 2019 well perhaps Ive made it sound worse than it is getting the sump off as I havent done it on a 4 cylinder only the 6. Its true its on your back but if you can get the car up to a reasonable height the working environment should be ok. Then its only a few bolts round the sump and hopefully it can be removed without too much aggravation so giving access to the crank with its main and big end bearings. These are easy to undo and inspect but must be replaced exactly as found, CLEAN and with bolts torqued up correctly...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 Just listened to the sound track, yes possible big end or could be a big end cap hitting the sump it does sound a little tinny are there any marks/dents in the sump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 13 hours ago, johny said: working on the underside of the engine with the sump off is not nice at all I'm with Johny, although I have son-in-laws for that sort of job these days. Head off is easy and will almost certainly tell you if the problem is further down. And if it is big ends you're going to take the head off anyway? Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted July 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 How long would it take you guys to remove the cylinder head........ to see if the problem is at the top or further down.......and then put the head back on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 I thinkmthis is lower down theres liitle innthe head to make that clatter But providing the studs are not corroded in the holes which would need the studs removing ( ask doug) Head off in less than an hour and no point in refitting till you identify whats failing makes engine out a good bit lighter Which is bonnet off rad out, some good rope and a fence post with two guys lifting , do support the gearbox A engine crane is better but not essential Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 Steve, Depends if you run into trouble. I could change the head gasket on my old mini in an hour. When my GT6 blew a head gasket I undid the nuts but the head wouldn't let go. I needed a visit from Pete Lewis with his giant breaker bar to get the studs out before we could move it. Pete's just beat me to it. Everything he's just said! Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted July 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 If you remove the engine does the gearbox have to be permanently supported or can the can be rolled away without gearbox support? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 you do need something to support the front end of the gearbox once the engine is out but its not very heavy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 Gearbox has to be supported to roll the car away, but the support can be achieved with a to tie it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 You can support the gearbox with a bit of wood resting on the chassis rails, so no problem moving the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 43 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: I thinkmthis is lower down theres liitle innthe head to make that clatter Having listened to the noise again I agree that it doesn't sound like valve gear. My gut feeling is that it's not much lower down, though. It doesn't sound bottom end-y to me. Get the head off! I've had noises not unlike that from a blown head gasket (between adjacent cylinders) but you'd really notice that loss of power from that. Broken piston or other little-end issues could sound like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 I also said gudeon pin or similar but thats not a reason for oil and coolant problems steve mentions All a bit confusing Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 A blown head gasket certainly might better explain the overheating and loss of oil..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Caswell Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 Not sure where your nearest local Area meet is may be worth getting along and rounding up some help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 2 hours ago, johny said: A blown head gasket certainly might better explain the overheating and loss of oil..... But the compression figures say there isn’t a head gasket failure. my money is now on a failed big end, as this doesn’t cause a significant drop in oil pressure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougbgt6 Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 3 hours ago, KevinR said: But the compression figures say there isn’t a head gasket failure. I had a head gasket go on a mini where the individual bores were OK but the failure was between a water way and an oil way, messy! However that doesn't explain the noise. db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannyb Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 I had the same sort of noise on a recon 1500 engine. Because it was bored out +30 the piston tops hit the fire rings on the head gasket. I knew the noise was from the top end of the engine and only found out after taking the head off. I had to put a small chamfer around all four piston tops. But it does not explain this case as it was originally running ok. Unless the head gasket has failed and the fire ring broken. I would get the head off. Danny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rozentas Posted July 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 In my first few postings I stated that the oil and coolant had burned up and boiled over respectively. I just had a thought about the coolant that I would be grateful for some feedback on. What actually happened to the coolant was that the tube going from under the radiator cap to the overflow bottle came off and so the coolant spilled out over the front of the engine compartment. As someone who until a few days ago knew nothing about engines I thought this was just coolant getting too hot and boiling over but having now read a lot would it be fair to say that it would be expected that if the tube came off the coolant would spill out? Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinR Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 1 minute ago, rozentas said: In my first few postings I stated that the oil and coolant had burned up and boiled over respectively. I just had a thought about the coolant that I would be grateful for some feedback on. What actually happened to the coolant was that the tube going from under the radiator cap to the overflow bottle came off and so the coolant spilled out over the front of the engine compartment. As someone who until a few days ago knew nothing about engines I thought this was just coolant getting too hot and boiling over but having now read a lot would it be fair to say that it would be expected that if the tube came off the coolant would spill out? Steve Steve, It is quite normal for the coolant in Triumph engines to expand out of the engine into the "overflow" bottle when the engine gets properly warm on a long run. If the bottle is reasonably empty when the engine is cold, it will be much fuller when the engine is hot. When the engine cools down, the expelled coolant is drawn back into the engine, so the whole process can start again when the engine gets hot again. If the bottle starts off fairly full at cold, it will over flow out of the bottle when the engine gets hot. Again, when the engine cools down, coolant will be drawn back into the engine, and now the level in the bottle will be slower than it was when it was cold at the beginning of the sequence. I've heard similar noises with a VW Golf, just before it put the failed big end through the side of the block. I've also heard similar noises with when the adjustment screws on the rockers (to adjust the valve clearances) have been hitting the inside top of the rocker cover. This was a result of having a very thin rocker cover gasket, coupled with the push rods being a couple of mm longer than standard. This was easily diagnosed as the noise went away when the rocker cover was removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 20, 2019 Report Share Posted July 20, 2019 I would just add Steve that what Kevin has said about the overflow system is correct but unfortunately the same exit is used when the system overheats. I think this is what happened in your case so the radiator cap lifted to release the excess pressure and discharge it via the tube. However unlike with the normal coolant expansion process (which occurs during the first few miles) overheating is more explosive and its quite common for the pipe to be blown off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now