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A sign of something expensive?


Rijidij

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Working on my GT6 today, I noticed a grease/oil spatter on the underside of the bonnet. Also some spots along the fuel line and top of the coolant expansion bottle.

I think it is coming from the small hole in the side of the water pump.

Is the pump on its way out?

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The hole is to let out  coolant from a failed seal  if anything is coming from here its on its way 

Note the drain hole  should  be fitted at the bottom not as shown up the side ,  not important now 

If its oily stuff its possibly lubrication of the sealed bearing that escaping  what ever it not good.

Pumps are not overly expensive, the body is common to most but pulley stand off can vary , so just check you get the 

Right one 

It is a bit unusual to have oily grot  escape the here

 

Pete

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Has the car been left unused for a while? I've had a water pump that leaked temporarily after being left for fair time which then stopped and gave good service for years afterwards. I can only think that the rubber seal stuck through lack of movement and was damaged when started but after running for a while the seal surface 'bedded' in again to reseal once more.....

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Hi johny.

I've only had the car a few weeks. And I've been using it as much as possible. Including a long run when I picked it up.

However, she did dump all the coolant the other week. No warning from the temperature gauge.
Cured by a new radiator cap - The spring had rusted away and I could easily squeeze it between thumb and forefinger.
It was stamped 13lbs, so I replaced it with same.

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Thats a little worrying because if the correct coolant has been used and changed regularly there should be minimal corrosion of any component in the circuit. If there has been corrosion then sludge and debris will have been produced that is not good for cooling and perhaps you should think about flushing the circuit sometime with a soda solution (see the other thread on this site). Any debris in the circuit is also not good for the waterpump seal so this could be another reason for it starting to leak - replacements are not too expensive and its a useful spare to have if you plan to keep the car long term as you'll need it at some stage..... 

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I wonder if some muppet has attempted to oil the pump and it has escaped 

If its not leaking coolant and there is no end float or bearing movement when you rock  the fan and its not noisy

Have a spare by all means .....but see how this pump runs . It may be fine 

Pete

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I agree with Pete, especially if the hole wasn't at the bottom. My waterpump failed spectularly without warning after running engine for sometime. Sharp shower of hot water everywhere. Thankfully on the drive trying to free off the clutch after 20 + years mothballed. Replacement very easy, check the mainfold water pipe return at the same time as it may be corroded. Good idea to replace that at the same time. I didn't but now wish I had.

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Thanks guys.

There was originally green fluid in the overflow - which was replaced by brown sludge after she ejected the coolant.

I did the soda crystals thing and drove her for a few days.
Then drained it, ran a Holts speedflush through, water flush (twice), then refilled with 4Life (controversial, I know) coolant.

Since then everything has been peachy, apart from this.

I'll see how it goes for some short runs. But will probably replace the water pump for peace of mind.

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12 hours ago, Rijidij said:

Cured by a new radiator cap - The spring had rusted away and I could easily squeeze it between thumb and forefinger.

 

4 hours ago, johny said:

Thats a little worrying because if the correct coolant has been used and changed regularly there should be minimal corrosion of any component in the circuit.

But the spring of the radiator cap is not "in the circuit" - it's on the overflow side and may be exposed to air when the car has been left for a bit.

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You're now at the point I'd never use a waterless coolant - while I accept the science and they they are technically better than water+glycol they are a hell of a lot more expensive...and you now need to drain yours to replace the water pump.  Doh!

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1 minute ago, Mjit said:

You're now at the point I'd never use a waterless coolant - while I accept the science and they they are technically better than water+glycol they are a hell of a lot more expensive...and you now need to drain yours to replace the water pump.  Doh!

I was thinking that myself... fine on a new system which will be untouched for a few years, but if it's leaking, or needs emptying for engine work, it's a bit of expense.

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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I was thinking that myself... fine on a new system which will be untouched for a few years, but if it's leaking, or needs emptying for engine work, it's a bit of expense.

Untouched cooling system.

In a classic car?????

Regards

Paul

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Guess it depends if you car has drain taps in both the radiator and block or not.  My Spitfire doesn't so "drain coolant" means "cover every available surface in coolant, catching mybe 10% in a tray".

Drain taps with a bit of pipe in to a bucket should work to recycle though?

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A useful draining aid is folded from cereal box cardboard or similar.     I've found it most useful for oil changes as well as water,  by confining and directing the flow, which can be quite forceful at first.    See diagram for oil drain version.    Coolant may need different dimensions/design.

John

 

Oil drain device 2.jpg

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2 hours ago, Mjit said:

Guess it depends if you car has drain taps in both the radiator and block or not.  My Spitfire doesn't so "drain coolant" means "cover every available surface in coolant, catching mybe 10% in a tray".

Drain taps with a bit of pipe in to a bucket should work to recycle though?

If your rad already has the little brass tap, fit one to the block as well; then just push a length of plastic pipe onto that and direct the coolant where you will. 

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