Rust Inhibitor

[Robin]

Just wonder if anyone has a recommendations for a rust inhibitor to use inside of the door - Ideally I'm looking for something that can be spayed into the areas that I can't get to with a brush.

Bilt Hamber products seem to be well reviewed but are there any other products worth looking at?

 

[Guest]

24 minutes ago, Robin said:

Bilt Hamber products seem to be well reviewed

Robin,

BH Dynax S50 - there is no substitute !!

Regards.

Richard.

[Pete Lewis]

cant remember what we used  in the doors but +many years back probably a wax derived , having repaired and painted and 'waxed  it suddenly became apparent a small 

split in the end of the glass aperture needed a quick squirt of weld.................you know you can get flames 8ft high out of a door drop glass aperture

Pete

[poppyman]

1 hour ago, Robin said:

 

Bilt Hamber products seem to be well reviewed but are there any other products worth looking at?

 

Another plus from me, the stuff works great and the tube that comes with it gives a 360deg patteren.

Tony.

[Guest]

And of course that tube / lance is a very decent length, ensuring it really does get in to the corners.

eBay have outlets and good deals can be found; worth going for a couple of tins as such deals make it financially advantageous.

Regards.

Richard.

[iana]

I need to apply some waxoyl or similar wax and under seal / Shultz as per a previous post, the S50 was recommended and the reviews are good, my concern is the car has been treated in the past with various treatments (largely unknown by POS), are they all compatible or do you run the risk of a reaction between the various products

[Paul H]

24 minutes ago, iana said:

I need to apply some waxoyl or similar wax and under seal / Shultz as per a previous post, the S50 was recommended and the reviews are good, my concern is the car has been treated in the past with various treatments (largely unknown by POS), are they all compatible or do you run the risk of a reaction between the various products

Im a big fan of Bilt Hamber and suggest you email / phone for advice - ive found them most helpful with advice - 

Paul 

[iana]

I’ve just emailed them and will post their comments - I’m hoping it is totally compatible.

[daverclasper]

I have done my wheel arch areas with Shultz, over sound/painted metal, as is quite resistant to stones, etc flying up.

I have found that if applied over even tiny amounts of surface rust, which is quite common practice, it is ok for a while, though when it dries out, it can harbour moisture and can cause rot in the thinner metal areas.

A bugger to get off and very messy. I think there are a good number of folk, who won't use it?.

Dave

[Colin Lindsay]

The entire underside of my Herald was coated in underseal (and if you've seen any of my other posts on the stuff you'll know it was over the entire engine and suspension too). My only option, as a lot of it is impossible to remove, is to sandblast the bits I can and recoat the rest in underseal - wheelarches, rear spring and propshaft tunnel etc. where the metal in behind is still good and only the MOT man will ever see it. Hours of scraping, grinding and rubbing with petrol has had a very limited result - see photo.

It's handy for a one-coat-and-forget job; plaster it on thickly, coat everything and never look at it again. You certainly won't get it off again without a lot of effort and mess. If it cracks, splits, or misses any seams, water gets in behind it, and you're sunk. That's why people favour the wax treatments, they're softer, apply better, and flow into crevices more easily; but being softer they wear off more easily and require regular recoating. I'll coat mine in wax, even over the underseal, and some places inside the car like the insides of the rear wings.

Ian - you'll find they're all inert wax products with some rust treatment added so won't react with each other.

 

[Dave the tram]

I've just used Bilt Hamber on my GT6 and found it great to apply. I previously used waxoyl, which is probably good for some things and brushed on, but I found it a pain  to inject or spray (from an aerosol or their pressurised spray system). Even with warming and thinning everything just clogged up. The more fluid BH with the long tube and 360 nozzle was great, espescially for inside chassis, sills etc. Can't comment on efectiveness over time but othe people give good reports.

Dave

[Colin Lindsay]

3 hours ago, Dave the tram said:

 I previously used waxoyl, which is probably good for some things and brushed on, but I found it a pain  to inject or spray (from an aerosol or their pressurised spray system). Even with warming and thinning everything just clogged up.

I have one of the pressurised containers that fits onto a Schultz gun, and regularly heat it over a gas stove until the Waxoyl runs like weak tea.... someday I'm going to blow myself up but until then I can get a jet six feet long out of the gun which goes absolutely everywhere on the car that I need it to. It just needs to be kept thin and runny; once it starts to cool it's already solidifying and going to clog.

[Unkel Kunkel]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I have one of the pressurised containers that fits onto a Schultz gun, and regularly heat it over a gas stove until the Waxoyl runs like weak tea.... someday I'm going to blow myself up but until then I can get a jet six feet long out of the gun which goes absolutely everywhere on the car that I need it to. It just needs to be kept thin and runny; once it starts to cool it's already solidifying and going to clog.

Heating over a gas stove .. are you   just saying that to make me feel nervous?

[Clive]

I use the safer option of a large saucepan thingy, half full of water with the stuff in it. On the kitchen stove, gentle simmer.

However, still gone off waxoil, as it dries out too much.(have loads here if anybody wants it)

The thin dinitrol and similar other need no warming, and soak into rusty surfaces rather than sitting on top. Plus creep into seams. And the hard waxes go on like body Shultz, but seem to last as well without the downsides.

[Badwolf]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

I have one of the pressurised containers that fits onto a Schultz gun, and ........

Colin - Do you have a link for the pressurised container for the scuhtz gun. I saw one at Frosts but it was a customer's and not one of their products, so I was told.

[Colin Lindsay]

33 minutes ago, Vanadium23 said:

Heating over a gas stove .. are you   just saying that to make me feel nervous?

Nope... I do it outdoors well away from anything combustible but it needs careful watching - the centre of the solidified top face that you can see starts to melt and when that happens, the rest is well liquified. I found that hot water took too long and didn't get it to the required fluidity unless you were actually boiling the water it was sitting in. It's lazy and probably highly dangerous but so far I'm still in one piece...

Clive - the tin I use is one of the metal tins with the large screw cap; my gun fits straight on and I just top it up from a large 5 litre refill pack. I never found the hand pump setup to work properly (I won one off Practical Classics magazine back in 1993!) but the tall tin and the screw-on gun are perfect. At least, they don't blow up on me...

 

 

[poppyman]

Has anyone used a schultz tin with a blocked breather hole???? Inside a car...........

Tony.

[daverclasper]

1 hour ago, clive said:

However, still gone off waxoil, as it dries out too much.(have loads here if anybody wants it)

Hi Clive. If that's up for grabs, I'm interested please. How much do you have?, I know others may be interested.

I live in Bristol, though can arrange a courier if a collections possible.

Thanks, Dave

 

[Clive]

I will need to look in my shed. But currently 8 time zones away until mid October.

But there is a very good reason I won't use it... However if others want it they are welcome to it.

(Loads means probably a couple of 5l tins or something. I can't remember exactly, and I think s local chappie had some a while ago)

[Colin Lindsay]

23 minutes ago, clive said:

But there is a very good reason I won't use it...

Go on, tell us - what's the reason? Never had any trouble with Waxoyl. Use it, and every so often replenish it...  same as some of the more expensive ones. Tetroseal goes on very thinly, and for that very reason I distrust it.

[Badwolf]

Colin - how do you pressurise your container and connect to the gun. I have seen the trigger operated units but not a pump pressure system

[Unkel Kunkel]

Recently, I have been looking at Waxoyl alternatives:

I bought two aerosols with extensions -just for small jobs and was surprised how effective they were.

The Kent wax and the Indasa have a Dinitrol type smell,( not like the white spirit smell with Waxoyl) and is more like Dinitrol in consistency.

Kent also do a  can for use with a  a shultz gun and compressor - £9.05

My  gun and probe made by Plastic Padding years ago -and have been refilling the container with Waxoyl.

 

[Badwolf]

Kent is one of the 'trade only' companies and getting their stuff unless you know someone in the trade or have an account, is difficult

[daverclasper]

36 minutes ago, clive said:

I will need to look in my shed. But currently 8 time zones away until mid October.

 

12 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Go on, tell us - what's the reason? Never had any trouble with Waxoyl.

Thanks Clive, I'm in no hurry. I'm on a right budget with car and have been using waxoil (with a bit of engine oil mixed in which seems to help quite a bit, with it drying out).

Go on. What's the slander on it?.

Dave 

[Colin Lindsay]

52 minutes ago, Badwolf said:

Colin - how do you pressurise your container and connect to the gun. I have seen the trigger operated units but not a pump pressure system

It's a trigger gun run from a compressor. The gun just screws on to the tin with the long pickup tube inside. There are 2 nozzles, a wide spray one and a long tube for chassis cavities etc. I have the manual pump system which you pump to build up pressure, but it takes ages and is a poor flow unless the Waxoyl is really thinned or melted.