Gadgetman Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 Evening all had a good weekend pretty much finishing off my 1600 engine re-build and finding annoying little nuances that I now need to undo ( I bought a dynamator but it’s shorter than the dynamo that was fitted to this engine by 1/2”, the one in my car is the same as the dynamator so i now need to swap around brackets and spacers!) anyway to the point: After filling up with oil I’ve spun up the oil pump with a drill and adapter to prime the oil system. I had an oil pressure gauge fitted and it was showing 100psi!! I removed the pressure relief valve, checked it over and found nothing wrong ( it’s a new spring and plunger). To see if it was sticking / stuck I put the old one back in and it was the same. So as to make sure I didn’t have a blocked oil return from the pressure relief valve I reassembled it without the valve and spring. As I expected I got no oil pressure. Anyone any ideas? I’m going to try another oil pressure gauge but I don’t think it’s that. Do the pressure relief valves need setting up ( washers between the valve body and block) to adjust the relief valve spring tension?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 Mine is 100psi on startup. Hasn't blown up yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 Mine too. Goes right off the scale on startup then as the oil thins it drops back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herald948 Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) Quick thoughts: I agree with others that your oil pressure likely is just fine! On the dynamator, can I assume that your original dynamo (generator) would've been a C40L and that the new dynamator more nearly resembles the shorter C40 dynamo? Edited October 20, 2019 by Herald948 clarification Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted October 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 15 minutes ago, Herald948 said: Quick thoughts: I agree with others that your oil pressure likely is just fine! On the dynamator, can I assume that your original dynamo (generator) would've been a C40L and that the new dynamator more nearly resembles the shorter C40 dynamo? Yup one engine has a C40 and the other has a C40L! Sods law my spacer that’s been plated is for the C40L and the Dynamator is a C40 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 let us know how you get on with the dynamator some here have been expensive and troublesome Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted October 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: let us know how you get on with the dynamator some here have been expensive and troublesome Pete Will do Pete. What’s the difference in a C40 & C40L apart from the length?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 I think it produces 3 more amps. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herald948 Posted October 22, 2019 Report Share Posted October 22, 2019 On 20/10/2019 at 15:09, Gadgetman said: Yup one engine has a C40 and the other has a C40L! Sods law my spacer that’s been plated is for the C40L and the Dynamator is a C40 Murphy's Law and all that.... (Were Murphy and Sod related?) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted October 22, 2019 Report Share Posted October 22, 2019 5 hours ago, Herald948 said: Murphy's Law and all that.... (Were Murphy and Sod related?) I have a new C40L Dynamator still in the box if you are interested ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted October 24, 2019 Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 On 20/10/2019 at 17:58, Gadgetman said: SNIP. anyway to the point: After filling up with oil I’ve spun up the oil pump with a drill and adapter to prime the oil system. I had an oil pressure gauge fitted and it was showing 100psi!! Snip. Hi, I have never tried this myself. Did you use a large mains-powered drill? How did the drill feel when your gauge was reading 100 PSI? I always thought you would need an arm like Popeye. Interested in what oil pressure you get with a hot running engine. Shortening the spring will reduce the pressure. Adding washers between spring & head will increase the pressure. Surprised a "waxstat" for th valve has not been invented. Cheers, Iain. PS. Need not mention the O word once. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted October 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 Used a De-Walt 18v cordless drill but it killed the battery after 2 minutes! i had to keep a lot of down pressure on the drill to keep it engaged in the oil pump! i’ll warm the sump I with a 2KW fan heater to get the oil up to temp and see what the pressure does. id look at putting an extra copper washer under the valve body if I needed to drop the pressure, but going by what everybody is saying I’m probably ok as is .k I’m now looking at pressurising the water system before I fit the engine to check the core plugs for leaks. Probably going to turn up aluminium blanks for the water hoses and then tap one to take a screw in schraher tyre valve. Then pump air in up to 7 psi and leak check with soapy water.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Clark Posted October 24, 2019 Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 Which way did you spin the oil pump? It needs to be anti-clockwise. When I built a 6 cylinder Triumph engine recently, it needed less than 10 seconds spinning the oil pump anti-clockwise with a drilll at low speed to get pressure. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 24, 2019 Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 Fully charged 18v Makita in reverse and it slows almost to a stop as the pressure suddenly builds up. I use a salvaged PI dissy drive shaft as it is obviously designed to engage on the oil pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 24, 2019 Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 I can visualise the engine build at triumph with loads of guys with drills to prime the engines on their test beds on production I dont think that was part of the production process, bear in mind most were probably run on gas and it was common practice to run engines back to back ,, one drove the other , some never ran on their own power let alone prime the oil chest They probably all had start up knock but know one noticed with all the noise, remember they have only lasted 50 years even with a few rebuilds Its a must have thats desireable to some, but in the end pretty unnecessary Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gadgetman Posted October 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 Trouble is Pete its multiple OCD (Obsessive Compression Desire 🤣) it comes from working on aircraft for years and wanting to make everything as perfect as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Pete, I have been doing it because my TR6 oil pump will not self prime after a filter change.No idea why, but the engine coming out to investigate is much closer after my attempts due to the damage I have done prior to realising there is a problem. once the pressure comes up for the first time never a problem until the next oil change. As for rebuilt engines, I am with Mr Gadgetman, I would do it just to make sure the pump works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Unless you are an F1 trained technician, used to four wheel tyre changes in less than two seconds, with at least one assistant, there is plenty of time while you reassemble the dizzie and fit it, for all that oil to fall back into the sump. I prefer to turn the whole engine over on the starter, no plugs in so minimal stress, whip the plugs back on and go for a start. It helps if you use a running modern with jump leads connected, so plenty of juice for the whole procedure. John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 john thats a yes from me ha ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) Yes. I do that. It doesn't take that long for the oil light to go out and battery seems to take it easily (just for a filter change). Dave Edited October 25, 2019 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 9 hours ago, thescrapman said: Pete, I have been doing it because my TR6 oil pump will not self prime after a filter change.No idea why, but the engine coming out to investigate is much closer after my attempts due to the damage I have done prior to realising there is a problem. once the pressure comes up for the first time never a problem until the next oil change. As for rebuilt engines, I am with Mr Gadgetman, I would do it just to make sure the pump works. You mean you put in a new filter and oil then start the engine and no pressure shows? It does take a few nerve racking seconds to fill the filter and system but can't think of any explanation why the pump would prime by hand and not on starter.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 26, 2019 Report Share Posted October 26, 2019 On 25/10/2019 at 12:37, JohnD said: Unless you are an F1 trained technician, used to four wheel tyre changes in less than two seconds, with at least one assistant, there is plenty of time while you reassemble the dizzie and fit it, for all that oil to fall back into the sump. I prefer to turn the whole engine over on the starter, no plugs in so minimal stress, whip the plugs back on and go for a start. It helps if you use a running modern with jump leads connected, so plenty of juice for the whole procedure. John Tried that John, flattened 3 fully charged batteries and had it jumped off a running car, plugs out, still would not pressurise. oil pumped back in the pressure switch hole, fully brimmed new filter. Everything I could think of. couple of minutes wit the drill sorts it. there is definitely something wrong with the pump, just need to get the engine out to see what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 26, 2019 Report Share Posted October 26, 2019 19 hours ago, johny said: You mean you put in a new filter and oil then start the engine and no pressure shows? It does take a few nerve racking seconds to fill the filter and system but can't think of any explanation why the pump would prime by hand and not on starter.... Few nerve wrecking seconds, more like 2 minutes and I bottled out. That is why the ends now rattle and theoils pressure dips alarmingly when hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2019 Report Share Posted October 26, 2019 i would agree on drill or on starter is same , is the pressure relief valve stuck open ?? so youre just pumping back tot the sump ?? pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 26, 2019 Report Share Posted October 26, 2019 If this after a full rebuild, gave you checked BBB the bell housing? Leave out the plug from the back of the main gallery, and the housing will be full of oil. No need to ask me how I know. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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