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Head Fit!


Colin Davies
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When I purchased the car I was told the chassis and head were done. Post purchase after stripping the car, I found the radiator was not secured. After removing the rocker cover discovered nuts were absent or only finger tight! Removed the plugs put in a scope to look at the bores.

I have removed the head nuts, these were beyond the torque recomendations. The head will not budge. Fed the studs with releasing fluid until the fluid runs out! I have gone around with a rubber hammer, hammer and block of wood, inserted the plugs and turned the engine over. Wedged wood under the head and jacked it up the whole car lifted so a series of downward blows to the block, still no movement. Nothing I have tried will make it move. 

Any suggestions should be appreciated.

Thank you, Colin.

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Hi Colin,

It's a common problem. Many years ago I had the same problem with removing the head on my Vitesse to do a decoke. Probably, one or more, of the head studs have rusted to the cylinder head. you'll need to remove the studs, either with a stud remover or using the double nut technique. It's the only thing that worked for me.

Gav

 

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GT6 Mk3?

Silly question but is there definitely a head gasket fitted?

Suspect the studs are rusted into the head, so you'll have to continue doing what you've been doing, but with a lot more force. Last one that played me about like this was only a lowly Herald, but I had to remove the head studs one by one with a serious amount of effort until I finally got the head to lift. You may find, as I did,  that some unscrew quite easily, which allows you to concentrate on the areas where the head is being gripped. 

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on Dougs we used my impact stud extractor but with a 3ft braker bar and both of us swinging on it  to get the studs out

I once years back had a mk1 2000 with one stuck stud , managed to jack it to get a small gap and with a blade hack saw  through the stud , the remains unscrewed with fingers the stud in the block took a sledge hammer to punch it out   

so you may wreck a stud witha extractor or double nut  even weld a nut on , so be prepared for new studs and new nuts and washers 

pete

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... but as they're screwed into the block,  the only way to exert any force on them to remove them is to unscrew them. This means some form  of stud extraction, and a twisting / turning motion is the one most likely to break the seal - after all, it's the only direction of force you can apply. Mine broke the 12mm stud extractor from my kit before finally agreeing to move.

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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

GT6 Mk3?

Silly question but is there definitely a head gasket fitted?

Suspect the studs are rusted into the head, so you'll have to continue doing what you've been doing, but with a lot more force. Last one that played me about like this was only a lowly Herald, but I had to remove the head studs one by one with a serious amount of effort until I finally got the head to lift. You may find, as I did,  that some unscrew quite easily, which allows you to concentrate on the areas where the head is being gripped. 

Yes there is a gasket, I have gone around one side and think someone may have used an adhesive type of sealant into the gasket. I have 2 studs out currently. Onwards and upwards.

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1 hour ago, JohnD said:

Good demonstration that studs get stuck in the head, not in the block!

Not on my car John. The studs were stuck in the block, we were expecting rust, but not a fleck of orange in block or head. Every one took the same effort to get out, so definitely over torqued into the block.

Colin,

Try double nutting, I had to use half nuts because of lack of thread. It was not successful. Hire or borrow an impact driver or buy one, if you're feeling flush. They are very useful. If it doesn't manage it, you take the impact driver stud grip and put it on the end of a breaker bar and find a large friend to help.

Doug

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5 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Well they do say two heads are better than one... :)

On a Stag that is the exact opposite. Double trouble......

on the mk 2/3 6 pots, the studs on the pushrod side will usually come out but double-nutting. On the manifold side, it’s generally the ones next to the exhaust ports that are worst.

Liberal application of a decent penetrating oil (which WD40 is NOT), such as Plus Gas or atf/acetone mix, into the gap with the nut off with extra penetration encouraged (no Pete!) by tapping the top of the stud with a hammer. Another trick is to double nut a stud then whack the top nut with a hammer at the same time as trying to undo it with a spanner. Failing that, weld the nut on nice and hot and try again. If you can get down to one stud, you can unwind it by turning the whole head - but only with the engine removed....  Done that twice now.  They can be stubborn!

Nick

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