Martin White Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Thanks again guys. Will be doing a thorough clean and a full flush through once engine up and running g again to get rid of any internal crap that I cannot get to. Was recommended half a dish washer capsule to dissolve out all the out that has made its way into the waterways. New one to me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Martin, have a scrape at that recess and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 1/2 a capsule ??? bung it all in i just use cheapo washing soda crystals proven to work by the many but but half a cap in many litres of water is a bit dilute i think Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 Will start the clean up this week. New head gasket arrives Thursday so will try and put everything back together over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Just cleaning up the head and tested valve seating with penetrating fluid all seems ok. However, one of the valves is not completely flat and has a slight bump as though the valve stem is "pushing" through slightly. I have another head so I suppose I could swap that one valve over. Or while I have the head off replace all valves and guides (and seals although I have seen hundreds of conflicting advice around these)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 if you fit seals there's a very good chance you will seize a valve stem due to lack of lube .the engines are not designed to use stem seals if you replace the valves ( why) you need to recut the seats then you remove some of the lead memory you really need to keep the raised head is just an alternative method /manufacturer its not a problem pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Thanks Pete although it seems to be only one valve. To be honest I would be quite happy to leave and put everything back together 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 40 minutes ago, Martin White said: To be honest I would be quite happy to leave and put everything back together That's what I'd recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 I have bought replacement studs and washers though. What would you recommend to lubricate the studs? A small smear of copper grease or engine oil? I understand I do not need to screw in very tightly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Tightening torque is dependant on what lubricant is used, so check the workshop manual carefully (I used ARP big end bolts, they use a special lubricant and specify a torque lower than when using engine oil, all on their excellent spec sheet) I guess using oil means you will have, if anything, a higher clamping force. Not enough to f=damage anything, so shouldn't harm anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 I don't use anything in the block, just screw the studs in firmly but as Pete would say not Gorilla tight, a bit of assembly lube around the shafts when lowering the head in place - just a smear, keep it off the gasket) and then tighten down as per the book. The important thing is to retorque after a bit of mileage, once things have settled / expanded / vibrated fully into place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Thanks Chaps. I think I have enough info now to put it together again bit worried about those bolts at the back of the manifold but I managed to get them off so I am sure I can get the buggers back on again. Thanks again gents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted October 29, 2020 Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Look for a long thin-walled socket, maybe a smaller drive such as 3/8 rather than 1/2; this can make all the difference in trying to access a confined space. I've had more than one bolt which a standard-sized socket would not reach at all, but a different socket made it so simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted October 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2020 Thanks for the advice Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 So guys you can see from my last post it has been a couple of weeks. Head should have been back on by now. 6 hours removing a stubborn stud 1 weekend gone Nuts kept shearing whilst torquing up another weekend gone so ordered correct cylinder head nuts from Canley classics And I am still having the same issue. I torque up to 20lb/ft then 35 but when I torque up to 46 ‘crack’ nuts shear and back to square one. Does anyone have any idea where I am going wrong here? Studs were also from CC. Getting a tad frustrated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Have you had your torque wrench calibrated recently? I ask because I had the same problem with my Spitfire before realising the torque wrench was lying and I'd just tightened them all to about 80lbft! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Funny you should say that but it’s not my torque wrench and to be honest I cannot think of anything else. Trip to Halford’s to buy my own on the cards. Also the torque wrench I am using only goes up to 50...,, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Have you checked your torque wrench? I ruined a rebuilt engine by torquing the head studs in - I know! no need, they should be hand tight, but a manaula said 60lbs-ft. I did that - and split the block! One of the front studs is near the edge of the face, and it cracked. One scrap block, bugger. But then I checked my torque wrench! And it was delivering 100lbs-ft, when it should be 60. A check is simple to do. Grip the drive bar in your vice, with the handle horizontal. Hang know weights from the handle, ahving set it to an approriate setting, and move the weight outwrads until the wrench clicks. Then known weight, divined by the distance from drive bar to the strop hanging the weight is the torque at which it has clicked. Easy, but fiddly! John PS Ah! great minds and all that. It is best to use a wrenc h that covers the wanted torque, rather that being at one end of the range. You might consider a 'torsion bar' wrench, like this: They do not go out of calibration! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Use the flanged nuts from Minispares - I’ve not found anything else modern that will hold the torque reliability. 46 is really on the edge for 3/8” UNF. Torque wrench check is a good call also though. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 were they the supposed HD nuts from CC they should be an oiled black finish a std plated nut will strip at 36lbft as max is 31 on a solid fixing yes the minispares flanged nut is the best and cheaper Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Hi Pete No they were silver. I did ask for cylinder head nuts specifically. So I need to contact minispares (I assume there is a website) and ask for flanged nuts for a cylinder head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin White Posted November 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 So ordered a torsion bar torque wrench. I can see the flanged nuts on the mini spares website. Do I still use a washer with this type of nut? Thanks for the help guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 These should be the ones you need. http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Studs_bolts_nuts/CAM4545.aspx?100409&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/flanged nut.aspx|Back to search And no, no washer needed as the flange does that function effectively Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglefire Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Just checked and yes these are the correct ones - I actually bought the pack of 10 for £14.52 delivered(April 2019 but the nuts are the same cost) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted November 10, 2020 Report Share Posted November 10, 2020 Hello Martin I have a set of those spare if you want them? I bought them for my MK1 Vitesse but have upgraded the studs to 7/16" UNF(not happy with the 3/8" ones!) We can come to some arrangement(a small gift to charity?) Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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