Redline MT-90 Synthetic GL4 Gear Oil

[avivalasvegas]

I have a feeling we're going to get alot of the usual "don't use synthetics in a GT6" comments but I couldn't help but notice that this article endorses Redline MT 90 transmission fluid. 

I took a look at the product details and it clearly is safe for brass internals. Given the Christmas tree decorations that came with of my recent fluid change, I'm keen to find the best oil for the job. Has anyone tried this one or Amsoil's equivalent in their gearbox?

[Clive]

Nothing wrong with synthetics at all.

Plenty wrong with GL5 in a gearbox, yellow metal safe or not. I recently spent a sizeable wad of cash having my type9 Ford box refreshed by BGH, the leading specialist for the T9. And despite it being a more modern box than Triumphs, it works in very much the same way, ie has brass synchro rings. And they are the issue with oils. Put GL5 in, and they will slip more on the hubs, and gears wil crunch. Incidentally, I was offered an upgrade, that they considered unnecessary for my usage, where they fit steel synchro rings, which are lined with friction material (like an overdrive clutch). The gear hubs are machined down to accept these, so costs are around £650 for converting all 5 gears. 

I digress, yes, use a GL4 synthetic, if it meets teh spec, it will be fine. BGH recommend Comma SX75-90 GL4 oil for all they gearboxes, even the ones used by the Irish rally chaps who have a habit of giving the gearboxes a VERY hard time. I have been using it for years in the T9, all seems well. Never seems to be in the car for more than a few years though.

[PeteH]

Surely another "horses for courses" case Here. "up-spec`ing" to a synthetic, Is likely not essential for the sort of use most of our cars get?. I "see" the argument against using a GL5. But sticking to an "OE" spec; and changing/maintaining it as per manual, Is likely to be most cost effective for most.? NOW, IF your racing/rallying, then that would be a whole different ball game?.

As someone who just bought over £100 worth of Full Synthetic (the vehicle has a DPF and "demands" Low Splash etc;) for an oil change. I know only too well the "sharp intake of breath" when you see the cost. More especially when it will be changed on time, rather than mileage!!.

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, PeteH said:

Surely another "horses for courses" case Here. "up-spec`ing" to a synthetic, Is likely not essential for the sort of use most of our cars get?.

Gear oil, engine oil, brake pads.... most of them are over-specced for tootling about in our cars for a few thousand miles per year. I spent £50 on Lucas engine oil that was changed a year later after only 300 miles; great reviews, be all and end all of classic motor oil... but my use didn't justify it. If you're a fast driver, rallying or doing high mileage then it may justify additional cost for some of the more high-spec lubricants but for a low-use classic, good moderately priced product is perfectly adequate and performs no better or worse than the expensive stuff, especially if it's all serviced once a year at least.

[avivalasvegas]

Sorry lads - my goal here is preservation of the gearbox i.e. less shiny metal in my old fluid. I've had great success with Amsoil ATF in my Classic Mercedes, so am a believer in synthetics from specialists brands like Redline and Amsoil, in the differential and gearbox. 

The above oil is yellow metal safe and rated GL4. Cost aside, wise move? Is it the right viscosity? 

[johny]

5 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Gear oil, engine oil, brake pads.... most of them are over-specced for tootling about in our cars for a few thousand miles per year. I spent £50 on Lucas engine oil that was changed a year later after only 300 miles; great reviews, be all and end all of classic motor oil... but my use didn't justify it. If you're a fast driver, rallying or doing high mileage then it may justify additional cost for some of the more high-spec lubricants but for a low-use classic, good moderately priced product is perfectly adequate and performs no better or worse than the expensive stuff, especially if it's all serviced once a year at least.

Lets face it, our hobby isnt logical so often we spend money to get a nice warm fuzzy feeling - its a personal choice of how much of that we want and how much were prepared (or allowed☺️) to spend to get it....

[Gully]

3 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

Sorry lads - my goal here is preservation of the gearbox i.e. less shiny metal in my old fluid. I've had great success with Amsoil ATF in my Classic Mercedes, so am a believer in synthetics from specialists brands like Redline and Amsoil, in the differential and gearbox. 

The above oil is yellow metal safe and rated GL4. Cost aside, wise move? Is it the right viscosity? 

The specs look right to me, including the viscosity.

Gully

[Colin Lindsay]

3 hours ago, johny said:

Lets face it, our hobby isnt logical so often we spend money to get a nice warm fuzzy feeling - its a personal choice of how much of that we want and how much were prepared (or allowed☺️) to spend to get it....

That's very true, but so many times over the years I've bought something that was totally unnecessary, and wasted so much money, just because a few others said it was great and I just had to have it...

[Pete Lewis]

i dont read in the blurb anything about it being an EP   extreme pressure spec 

but that might be down to having the jab ????

Pete

[johny]

16 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

That's very true, but so many times over the years I've bought something that was totally unnecessary, and wasted so much money, just because a few others said it was great and I just had to have it...

Also got to remember what we drive are closer to a tractor than to F1😆

[Pete Lewis]

1 minute ago, johny said:

closer to a tractor than to F1

Oh heck ............ you've got me all disappointed now 

Pete

[johny]

1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:

Oh heck ............ you've got me all disappointed now 

Pete

Good looking tractors though👍

[Colin Lindsay]

45 minutes ago, johny said:

Also got to remember what we drive are closer to a tractor than to F1😆

Same engine as the little grey Fergie, more or less?

[Pete Lewis]

1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:

little grey Fergie, more or less?

more TR2 3 4 

Pete

[johny]

yes think the six came from a light lorry engine didnt it?

[Pete Lewis]

triumph did a 8 cyl and 6 cyl dolomite around 1934/1940  but cant find any ref to truck or van variant using the six which was introduced in the vanguard II

and sportsman etc 

16 two-litre six-cylinder engine[edit]

In July 1938 a slightly longer wheelbase version powered by a 1,991 cc (121.5 cu in) engine fed by triple SUs joined the range^[10] while the saloon version featuring the same 1,991 cc engine still made do with just two SU carburettors.^[10] No power output figure was quoted by the manufacturers for the 1,991 cc Dolomite.

The cars received excellent reviews from the period motoring press.

and 

standard ( 4 cyl ) 

Standard's Vanguard engine

The Vanguard's engine, later slightly enlarged, powered two saloons, a tractor and three sports cars

[daverclasper]

1 hour ago, johny said:

yes think the six came from a light lorry engine didnt it?

That must have been one smooth running, foxy lorry.

[daverclasper]

Pete got in first and has now spoiled my vision.

[johny]

6 minutes ago, daverclasper said:

That must have been one smooth running, foxy lorry.

Certainly would explain the weight of the engine😁

[Nick Jones]

11 hours ago, avivalasvegas said:

Sorry lads - my goal here is preservation of the gearbox i.e. less shiny metal in my old fluid. I've had great success with Amsoil ATF in my Classic Mercedes, so am a believer in synthetics from specialists brands like Redline and Amsoil, in the differential and gearbox. 

The above oil is yellow metal safe and rated GL4. Cost aside, wise move? Is it the right viscosity? 

Yes, it’ll be fine. I’ve been using it in my Vitesse for decades. It’s a Toyota gearbox 🤫, but I’ve used it in Triumph gearboxes too with good results.

Nick

[rogerguzzi]

Hello All

              I use their heavy duty EP oil in Spittys Differential as it does not hold much an gets hot on motorways and it seems to stay the same colour not go black!

Roger

[JumpingFrog]

21 hours ago, rogerguzzi said:

Hello All

              I use their heavy duty EP oil in Spittys Differential as it does not hold much an gets hot on motorways and it seems to stay the same colour not go black!

Roger

Hi Roger,

Slightly OT: But exactly which Red line product did you use in your differential? Maybe this one? https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-1023-red-line-heavy-shockproof-gear-oil-75w-140.aspx?VariantID=1260

Personally I've only used one of Red line's products before, but I was impressed with it - their CV-2 grease, very good for wheel bearings.

[rogerguzzi]

Hello 

            Yes that is the one and I have used it for about 7 years and 2 differentials(only changed because the output drive shafts and gears had a lot of slack in them!)

I just hunt Fleabay etc for the cheapest.

We have done about 30,000 miles on them and in normal times some is at motorway speeds as we go to Spain, Spa etc

I am going to Synthetic in the gearbox when I get around to changing it(different make)

Roger

[avivalasvegas]

Interesting! So a different viscosity in the differential and a shockproof one at that? 

[Pete Lewis]

at £26 per quart + post its a shock alright to some 

Pete