thescrapman Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said: Wrecks the thrust washers. Been there... Bends the back plate as well. And if a proper gorilla does it, snaps the side off the bellhousing ( Welll an alloy one) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanMi Posted June 28, 2021 Report Share Posted June 28, 2021 I always use 2 pieces of wood on my spit one under the sump sticking out beyond the backplate and then another on top of that the correct thickness to fit under the backplate. Then simply slide the gearbox along the top piece which puts it in alignment and makes life very easy. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted June 30, 2021 Report Share Posted June 30, 2021 Thanks for the stud info. I didn't remember the top 2 holes were threaded, from when I had it out, about 7 years ago. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 1, 2021 Report Share Posted July 1, 2021 well the gearbox is in bits now and the mainshaft wont drift out the rear bearing its gone back to pauls for a fight with a press never had one resist removal before so Tee shirt is on order , and the 3rd top hub which i always suggest bag it/wire it now has flown its balls and springs all over the workshop its and age thing my age thing Ha Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2021 The main shaft is free together with the main bearing so ready to dismantle . Then make a list of bits required for the rebuild . Disappointed that despite an expensive rebuild 4K miles ago this work is required . On the positive side I’m learning the black art of how to understand how to understand how the gearbox works and how to repair . Will keep you advised of my shopping list . Thanks again Pete Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 Gearbox now stripped and ready for refurb Shopping list for Canleys Oil seal in Bellhousing Copper washer for bottom bolt in bellhousing ( missing when refurbed ) Gaskets Layshaft 3 Synchro rings ( small ) gearbox is mk1 Anti rattle rear clip D Type O/Drive (missing) There was an oil leak from the speedo drive , initially thought the oil seal plug had failed but the “plug” was jammed in the thread , removed , cleaned and retightened Peter observed that the Clutch Release Bearing Carrier had the Dimple flattened so would keep spinning and this could be the reason why the Singing Canary is still evident . Looking forward to this noise disappearing . Apparently the carrier needs drilling with a split pin inserted to stop the spinning When the recon was done after a week couldn’t get 4th gear , they repaired and couldn’t get an explanation other than it wouldn’t happen again . Pete found out why, the bolt holding the gear leaver to the main shaft was the wrong way round and the nut had been happily chewing away at the alloy housing ! I have always viewed Gearboxes as a Black Art never to be touched or tackled , now after watching Pete stripping the box and explaining what happens I now have a better understanding and to make a list of what’s required is a milestone for me This is a great forum 😄 Looking forward to my return trip to Sunny Luton nb I found this YouTube video helpful in understanding how gearboxes work and in particular Synchro rings which have been the cause of my issues Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 3, 2021 Report Share Posted July 3, 2021 Thats good at the basics what it doesnt explain is the "rockover" 1/2 tooth baulking of the ring to obstruct the change till the syncgronisation has equaled the speeds and the diffential rotational loads have equalised the angles and clean well defined chamfer on the sleeve the baulk ring and the gear dog teeth are important they are not chimbed away through too many crashes, its the sleeve rattling on the dog teeth ah makes the crashing noises and will damage the teeth to reduce the operation even further its the failing of rock over that lets go and you get the crash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted July 5, 2021 Report Share Posted July 5, 2021 Hi Paul. Just a thought, though you probably have it inhand. My layshaft was a bit shot, and had also mullered the corresponding internal laygear bearing surface (unless it had been rebuilt at sometime, with dodgy laygear and mullered a new layshaft?). Mike Papworth managed to re sleeve the laygear, (which I guess is better, as the pinions have worn with the other pinions) though he did have spares at the time, about 7 years ago. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2021 19 hours ago, daverclasper said: Hi Paul. Just a thought, though you probably have it inhand. My layshaft was a bit shot, and had also mullered the corresponding internal laygear bearing surface (unless it had been rebuilt at sometime, with dodgy laygear and mullered a new layshaft?). Mike Papworth managed to re sleeve the laygear, (which I guess is better, as the pinions have worn with the other pinions) though he did have spares at the time, about 7 years ago. Dave Hi Dave , the layshaft only showed very minor wear and could have been reused but could have made the box a little noisy so I ordered a new one Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted July 7, 2021 Report Share Posted July 7, 2021 I do wonder if a version of Dr Doolins tool could be made for the small chassis cars and if it would even be of any use. Thinking more about it due to the prop tunnel it is probably not a good idea. Adrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 7, 2021 Report Share Posted July 7, 2021 one of these ?? https://dr-doolin.com/77-accessories/dvd-and-video/doolin-tv/1828-tr6-transmission-lifting-tool Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahebron Posted July 7, 2021 Report Share Posted July 7, 2021 10 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: one of these ?? https://dr-doolin.com/77-accessories/dvd-and-video/doolin-tv/1828-tr6-transmission-lifting-tool Pete Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 A trip to sunny Luton yesterday the box and overdrive were rebuilt , thanks Pete . The refit now starts , called in to a local nut and bolt company asking for a solution to the Overdrive Solenoid . One of the fixings , a 2ba screw is nigh on impossible to remove without taking out the gearbox and overdrive . The right hand chassis rail is the obstruction . The solution is a 4ins 2ba cheese head screw which will need trimming . In future the solenoid can be removed without taking out the box . In due course will advise final measurements for those interested Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Gearbox and Overdrive ready for refit The od solenoid lower fixing is a 4ins 2ba screw with tube and nuts . Might be a tad long and will adjust length when fitting . This will ensure the solenoid will never fail 🤔 Won’t be refitting till mid august though as we will be away Paul 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 Trying to refit the gearbox / od and it’s stuck in the this position . Pretty sure the main shaft is engaged with the clutch plate . Putting into gear and wiggling the prop , there is resistance . The box has engaged on the 3 posts at the top of the box and 2/3rds through . Tried tapping with block of wood with a mallet but it’s solid . The gap is similar all the way round . It’s difficult to Jack the engine further as the housing is touching the bulk head by the starter . My options seem to be more force ie mallet and wood or remove and check if the clutch plate has moved , any ideas / advice welcome Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Faulds Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 I wouldn't force anything, patience is best here, I'd take it back out and recheck everything 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 are you sure the gap is really equal all round it looks bigger at the bottom ( or thats a photo distortion) indicates the engin needs a lift a bit and maybe remove any support under the box so you can give it aa good waggle about Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: are you sure the gap is really equal all round it looks bigger at the bottom ( or thats a photo distortion) indicates the engin needs a lift a bit and maybe remove any support under the box so you can give it aa good waggle about Pete Hi Pete you are correct the lower gap is wider than the top but with raising the engine further would mean butchering the bulkhead by the starter motor . I’ll try dropping the engine , worth a try Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 ive said use a stick of timber to use as sight gauge in the gap what looks | | is often | / and its that little bit that blocks a fit if you cant raise the block can you drop the gearbox ?? Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 13 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: ive said use a stick of timber to use as sight gauge in the gap what looks | | is often | / and its that little bit that blocks a fit if you cant raise the block can you drop the gearbox ?? Pete Hi Pete can’t drop the box as it’s jammed on top of the prop and has to go forward to drop . I’m looking at bending the bulkhead by the starter to get the engine higher Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 9 minutes ago, Paul H said: Hi Pete can’t drop the box as it’s jammed on top of the prop and has to go forward to drop . I’m looking at bending the bulkhead by the starter to get the engine higher Paul Hi Pete, I could remove the prop , this would mean the gearbox could lower to get in line ?? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 if you cant poke the prop to one side then its got to come off / well back out the way to drop the box more pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 10 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said: if you cant poke the prop to one side then its got to come off / well back out the way to drop the box more pete Thanks Pete , will drop the prop , at the same get a mate to spot weld the rear support bolts so the bracket can come off as well . Take it the prop will drop straight down and not withdrawn through the cabin ? Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul H said: Take it the prop will drop straight down and not withdrawn through the cabin ? The prop slides out past the diff, from below. However, it should have a sliding spline so normally you can compress it enough not to need to. I know you said you thought the input shaft was engaged in the clutch but I'm not sure from your photo. Put the box in gear and try rotating the flange to see if it slots it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted August 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 11 minutes ago, NonMember said: The prop slides out past the diff, from below. However, it should have a sliding spline so normally you can compress it enough not to need to. I know you said you thought the input shaft was engaged in the clutch but I'm not sure from your photo. Put the box in gear and try rotating the flange to see if it slots it in. I think you are correct , I’ve removed the box and tried the mandrill again and it needs recentering . Hopefully with the prop and rear bracket removed it should be easier to refit Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now