1969Mk3Spitfire Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 Car is Mk3 Spitfire. I replaced the heater motor a couple of years ago but there is no heat transfer into the cabin. The matrix holds pressure and water flowed freely when I put it under a tap. The job has found its way near to the top of my “to do” list. It would not surprise me if it was a simple air lock but I’m thinking of removing and testing the valve. Any tips or other pearls of wisdom from those of you with more experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 If the water is flowing through the matrix when tested, then the hot from the engine isn't reaching that far. It's either the valve or if you have it on the Mk3, the long pipe under the manifold. On my Herald 13/60 mine was so gummed up it actually broke on removal, but gives an indication of what lurks within.... disconnect all the hoses and attach the end of a hose, and see if the water makes it through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 24 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: if you have it on the Mk3, the long pipe under the manifold Yes, they all have some version of that pipe. The Mk3 one is similar to a 13/60, and quite a likely candidate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969Mk3Spitfire Posted March 15, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 Just taken these pictures. There is a long pipe running under the manifold. Is this “in” and “out” is through the valve? First test is to check flow going in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NonMember Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 The direction of flow is fairly obvious if you think about it. The hose from the cylinder head to the valve is connected to just about the hottest part of the engine. That's the flow to the heater. The other hose connects to a pipe that joins the water pump housing on the radiator bottom hose side. That's the return from the heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 and talking air locks just run the engine and part disconnect the heater hose at its highest point to let any air out worth a check first as its simple to do as most of the bay looks in good order did you fit a new pipe ,?? and the adaptor into the back of the pump can block up if the heater valve was all old and crusty but its not i would suggest its worth stripping it out as they clog up Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted March 15, 2022 Report Share Posted March 15, 2022 From memory don't just check the hole thro the M/S adapter as suggested by Pete but check it's extension into the pump housing the water channel at this point is very narrow and there could be a deposit build up fromthe extension of the adapter end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969Mk3Spitfire Posted March 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 Just removed the valve and it’s blocked. Currently poured-in some sink unblocker, now waiting…..I don’t have any caustic soda but tempted to walk to shops to buy some. Any other suggestions? With the valve off, thought I’d check that the matrix remains clear. Tried a bit of suck and blow through the hoses and can confirm that antifreeze doesn’t taste good. Used mouthwash to no avail, now trying coffee. Guess I’ll have this taste for the rest of the day. Oh the joy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain T Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 Hopefully that's the only blockage. When refilling I've always been told not to mix OAT and IAT antifreeze. When I bought my car the radiator, heater valve and some pipes where full of a gloopy gel (some of it solid) that can form when you mix the two types. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 34 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said: Just removed the valve and it’s blocked. Currently poured-in some sink unblocker, now waiting…..I don’t have any caustic soda but tempted to walk to shops to buy some. Any other suggestions? With the valve off, thought I’d check that the matrix remains clear. Tried a bit of suck and blow through the hoses and can confirm that antifreeze doesn’t taste good. Used mouthwash to no avail, now trying coffee. Guess I’ll have this taste for the rest of the day. Oh the joy. While the valve is off, connect the two pipes so that the heater will run without the valve; this will let you know if the valve was the only problem, or if there are other blockages along the line. If the heater gets up to full heat then happy days, problem solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969Mk3Spitfire Posted March 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 That’s a good suggestion, Colin, thanks. I haven’t started the car since hibernation and not planning to do until early April as I have a few commitments between then and now, albeit time on my hands today. I can now blow through the valve but it’s far from clear. Moving the spring loaded control mechanism doesn’t as yet have any impact so there’s still a way to go. It’s currently soaking in boiling water. Any suggestions to free-up the intervals would be most welcome? As I’m in no particular rush, I may simply leave it soaking in mild caustic soda for a day or two - thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 the smiths valve is easy to strip down the alloy body does attract a lot of aged corrosion the two halves are held by the claw and hook you can see on the body first mark the positions of the two parts drill out the retaining rivet and might need some grips here but twist the halves to lear the claws and it is now cleanable , refit to align your marks fit a rivet or small nut bolt in the rivet hole this just stops any cable action turning and causing a separation delaley valves are a different story if the rubber diaphragm has gone solid best just get a new valve Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wagger Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 I soaked the one on my Vitesse in washing soda. Also boiled it on the barbeque hob for half an hour in this solution. Connected it to the outside tap and rinsed through under pressure, then repeated the hot soda treatment. It is still wprking three months on and moves freely. My system was totally dry when my son found the car, so I used the latest anti freeze. All ok so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: if the rubber diaphragm has gone solid best just get a new valve Pete That was what I was going to suggest, for peace of mind. Even if you clean the old one you're still at the mercy of the rubber seal, whatever condition that may be in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: f the rubber diaphragm has gone solid best just get a new valve 6 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said: That was what I was going to suggest, for peace of mind. Even if you clean the old one you're still at the mercy of the rubber seal, whatever condition that may be in. If Colin says get a new one it must be the best option, he is well known to prefer the repair when at all possible option. I replaced mine as it was completely bunged solid, they aren't expensive ( Smith ones that is) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 560611 around £26 + vat you wont save much by messing around with the blocked one Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1969Mk3Spitfire Posted March 16, 2022 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 Thanks to all for helpful suggestions. I drilled the rivet and open it. Completely caked solid with 50 years of crud. The membrane wasn't pretty, either. Nevertheless, it clean-up reasonable well and now seems to work ok. Job done, but I'll take your advice and buy a replacement, keep this one as a spare, or as my wife calls it "more junk cluttering the garage shelves" Last question, the vee profile donut seal for the flange adapter - are these available, what can be used as an alternative? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 pleased you had a go and got a result the replacements are fair quality so it will be fine to dump the junk just keep whats useful and dont fill the boot with spares you wont ever need Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 13 minutes ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said: Last question, the vee profile donut seal for the flange adapter - are these available, what can be used as an alternative? Readily available; Part number A147 from Canleys, about 55p plus. (I hope; I use DG Heaters in all three of mine so haven't bought Smith's in years, but the description seems to be right) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: dont fill the boot with spares you wont ever need You know better than to say that surely 🤪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 i manage to have just a very minimal tool kit spare bulbs length of wire and a few cable ties no spares at all yes i rely on if it wont get you home its time for recovery I have faith in she will always bring us home so i dont carry spare water pumps distributors fuel pumps or alternator in 20 years of classic Triumphs I only used recovery once when the diff front mounting bolt unscrewed and locked the propshaft that might have been an easy fix if i was not in my best shirt etc and carried a trolley jack , more annoying it was the wrong bolt used by a reputable supplied recon diff unit . we have some locals they complain about . "shes not going well " and the boot and back seats are full of god knows what weighs down the performance and the paranoia and worry of taking 1/2 ton of spares you probably wont be able to fit on the roadside must ruin any day out these cars are reliable and quite capable of doing a good job , with good basic maintenance so to me its drive smile free of worry and have an enthusiastic drive without a ground anchor of spares in the back well its raining Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68vitesse Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 2 hours ago, 1969Mk3Spitfire said: Last question, the vee profile donut seal for the flange adapter - are these available, what can be used as an alternative? I just used a suitable o ring, I think this is what the usual suspects supplies these days. Regards Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: well its raining Pete I keep a brolly in the boot of my 13/60, it has been used on occasions!😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 E# 1 hour ago, Chris A said: I keep a brolly in the boot of my 13/60, it has been used on occasions!😁 Emergency substitute Hood?. Or just Auditioning for the local Am-Dram for the Gene Kelly Part?😁 Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 16, 2022 Report Share Posted March 16, 2022 sorry i only have cars with a ROOF !!!!!!! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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