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Clutch slave cylinder new v refurbish seals ???


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Hi All, looking for some advise on clutch slave cylinders.  Mine is used a lot of fluid, Ive check all connections and all good.  The little hole in the bottom of the bell housing has what could be clutch fund dripping from it.  So I am thinking the slave cylinder must be leaking.  Has anyone got recommendations of either new cylinders or seal repair kits ??  Just a quick look shows repair kits at £6 plus postage v £21 for a new cylinder https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360188150960?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjwx46TBhBhEiwArA_DjI_CyTMfz_AOUCHxPHBxrqThGju6tOGsgnnuh-BpOARADMtZGmSCGhoCEFEQAvD_BwE

 

Cheers, plus thought I would replace the sound insulation on the tunnel whilst I've got it out, any recommendations ?

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Depends on time and luck really. You could take out the cylinder and find its bore is corroded - either externally or internally. Then you have to wait for a new one and not use the seals you possibly previously order. The other scenario is install new seals and find it still leaks but I personally would take the risk on that😁

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13 hours ago, Paul H said:

I went for Girling NOS on slave , brake and Master Cylinders . Not the cheapest option by far.

Paul 

Me too, and believe it or not I used the first Triumph part I ever bought through the TSSC. Girling NOS slave cylinder bought in 1993 from an advertiser in The Courier when I had just joined, it was wrong for that car so sat on the shelf ever since in the original box and greased paper. I used it earlier in the year on my current Herald.

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4 minutes ago, johny said:

But with these NOS arent the rubber seals then very old before theyre even used on the car?

Depends on how they've been stored. Mine still had the original grease, which hadn't dried out even after all that time, and they moved very easily. You may find some older stuff has just been chucked in a drawer or a store and is as dry as a bone, so you're really only buying the metal components as a basis for a refurbishment. There's a lot of NOS stuff out there that I wouldn't risk without a rebuild, but others are a straight fit - it just depends on what it is.

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5 hours ago, johny said:

Not sure id like my brakes dependent on possibly 50 year old rubber though😳

Ah, now brakes are a totally different matter! The OP was talking about slave cylinders, but brakes I don't mess about with or use any kind of dodgy parts. I'm not QUITE so worried if the clutch doesn't work... :)

 

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I always use Girlock for brake & clutch slaves even buying from a reputable UK supplier, Due to NOS I strip them down and remove the dried out rubber grease, pull the seals off check for seal flexibility and no cracking/damage clean the bore and reassemble then fit, never had an issue. 

On rear brake slaves you know that the Girlock  recess is deep enough for the handbrake lever pin not to foul the backplate.

On clutch masters I and other members here have used new aftermarket trailer master cylinders $25 vs well over a hundred from normal suspects, or 120 for sleeving, & none of us that I know have had a problem with the cheapies.

The Mk2 Vitesse has the original clutch and brake masters but both have been SS sleeved. The pistons were a bit tarnished but cleaned up, it's the seal that does the work. I've been using Silicon brake fluid over 15 years it's not an issue, tho I have changed it once and silicon wasn't to dirty, so seals appear to have been compatible.

 

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I suppose I got lucky?. I stripped both master`s and Slaves, washed them out and re-rubbered them curtessy of (one of) the usual suspects. Tested by clamping in the vice with the outlet plugged, no movement over a 2 day period, so I think they will be OK?.

Pete

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi All,

Finally got it bleed, thanks all (plus I should of read the WSM).  The fast push thing helped as just normal pushing did not clear all the air.  I have just inspected the old fluid that came out, it has absorbed quite a bit a moisture over the years being normal brake fluid (root cause for the corrosion inside).  Lesson learnt is, if that don't want a leaking slave cylinder, change the fluid every three years (or use expensive silicone stuff and forget it).

IMG_2666.jpg

IMG_2670.jpg

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