alan.gilbert_6384 Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 Hi All, looking for some advise on clutch slave cylinders. Mine is used a lot of fluid, Ive check all connections and all good. The little hole in the bottom of the bell housing has what could be clutch fund dripping from it. So I am thinking the slave cylinder must be leaking. Has anyone got recommendations of either new cylinders or seal repair kits ?? Just a quick look shows repair kits at £6 plus postage v £21 for a new cylinder https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360188150960?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjwx46TBhBhEiwArA_DjI_CyTMfz_AOUCHxPHBxrqThGju6tOGsgnnuh-BpOARADMtZGmSCGhoCEFEQAvD_BwE Cheers, plus thought I would replace the sound insulation on the tunnel whilst I've got it out, any recommendations ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 Depends on time and luck really. You could take out the cylinder and find its bore is corroded - either externally or internally. Then you have to wait for a new one and not use the seals you possibly previously order. The other scenario is install new seals and find it still leaks but I personally would take the risk on that😁 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 Just thought of a third option: do both, repair and new, so as to have a spare (possibly) but careful this could lead to the dangerous start of a spares collection! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 For insulation I used Silent Coat effective and cheaper than most . Heat up with heat gun to get pliable . Cut with scissors and a wallpaper seam roller to “iron” over the contours . Paup 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 slave choice afraid its hobsons choice i have found re seals and new reproduction slaves all end up with some leakage after a short life Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 Agree with PaulH about the SilentCoat. Mine has just dropped through the letterbox. What a thump, mini-wolf went stratospheric. Have panel wipe handy to clean off the scissors/knife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul H Posted April 23, 2022 Report Share Posted April 23, 2022 I went for Girling NOS on slave , brake and Master Cylinders . Not the cheapest option by far. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted April 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 13 hours ago, Paul H said: I went for Girling NOS on slave , brake and Master Cylinders . Not the cheapest option by far. Paul Cheers Paul, where did you get them from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted April 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 14 hours ago, Badwolf said: Agree with PaulH about the SilentCoat. Mine has just dropped through the letterbox. What a thump, mini-wolf went stratospheric. Have panel wipe handy to clean off the scissors/knife. Cheers Mr Wolf, where did you order it from ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 13 hours ago, Paul H said: I went for Girling NOS on slave , brake and Master Cylinders . Not the cheapest option by far. Paul Me too, and believe it or not I used the first Triumph part I ever bought through the TSSC. Girling NOS slave cylinder bought in 1993 from an advertiser in The Courier when I had just joined, it was wrong for that car so sat on the shelf ever since in the original box and greased paper. I used it earlier in the year on my current Herald. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 But with these NOS arent the rubber seals then very old before theyre even used on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 4 minutes ago, johny said: But with these NOS arent the rubber seals then very old before theyre even used on the car? Depends on how they've been stored. Mine still had the original grease, which hadn't dried out even after all that time, and they moved very easily. You may find some older stuff has just been chucked in a drawer or a store and is as dry as a bone, so you're really only buying the metal components as a basis for a refurbishment. There's a lot of NOS stuff out there that I wouldn't risk without a rebuild, but others are a straight fit - it just depends on what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 Not sure id like my brakes dependent on possibly 50 year old rubber though😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badwolf Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 3 hours ago, alan.gilbert_6384 said: Cheers Mr Wolf, where did you order it from ? Thanks From my usual supplier of everything... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161282941044 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trigolf Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 I see that Demon Tweeks sell new Girling Master Cylinders and some Slave cylinders too. Some look suitable for our cars. Gav Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 5 hours ago, johny said: Not sure id like my brakes dependent on possibly 50 year old rubber though😳 Ah, now brakes are a totally different matter! The OP was talking about slave cylinders, but brakes I don't mess about with or use any kind of dodgy parts. I'm not QUITE so worried if the clutch doesn't work... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 Sorry Colin, I thought you were agreeing with Paul who went NOS on slave, brake and master cylinders... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted April 24, 2022 Report Share Posted April 24, 2022 I always use Girlock for brake & clutch slaves even buying from a reputable UK supplier, Due to NOS I strip them down and remove the dried out rubber grease, pull the seals off check for seal flexibility and no cracking/damage clean the bore and reassemble then fit, never had an issue. On rear brake slaves you know that the Girlock recess is deep enough for the handbrake lever pin not to foul the backplate. On clutch masters I and other members here have used new aftermarket trailer master cylinders $25 vs well over a hundred from normal suspects, or 120 for sleeving, & none of us that I know have had a problem with the cheapies. The Mk2 Vitesse has the original clutch and brake masters but both have been SS sleeved. The pistons were a bit tarnished but cleaned up, it's the seal that does the work. I've been using Silicon brake fluid over 15 years it's not an issue, tho I have changed it once and silicon wasn't to dirty, so seals appear to have been compatible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted April 25, 2022 Report Share Posted April 25, 2022 I suppose I got lucky?. I stripped both master`s and Slaves, washed them out and re-rubbered them curtessy of (one of) the usual suspects. Tested by clamping in the vice with the outlet plugged, no movement over a 2 day period, so I think they will be OK?. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 Hi All, Finally got it bleed, thanks all (plus I should of read the WSM). The fast push thing helped as just normal pushing did not clear all the air. I have just inspected the old fluid that came out, it has absorbed quite a bit a moisture over the years being normal brake fluid (root cause for the corrosion inside). Lesson learnt is, if that don't want a leaking slave cylinder, change the fluid every three years (or use expensive silicone stuff and forget it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 yoe can buy very cheap testers to measure the moisture content i use one at pub meets doug has one too pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted May 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said: yoe can buy very cheap testers to measure the moisture content i use one at pub meets doug has one too pete Hi Pete, don't suppose you have a picture of one em ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 18, 2022 Report Share Posted May 18, 2022 there lots hers a cheapie they do work search well prices are all over the place Good Helper For Your Travel Car Brake Fluid Tester Oil Tester 5 LEDs Brand New | eBay Automobile brake fluid tester oil humidity water detection 2.2in | eBay Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan.gilbert_6384 Posted August 23, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 Hi All, So after reading Pete Lewis comments above, I thought I would go with cutting the access hatch route, flipping glad I did as in less than 2 months and under 200 miles the new cylinder is now leaking grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I have now brought a seal kit and will inspect the bore, maybe polish it before installing new seals. On this subject does anyone know what the stuff (i presume some sort of grease) is the silver sachet, and is it just for lubricating the pin as it goes through the outer seal ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted August 23, 2022 Report Share Posted August 23, 2022 I use a length of wooden dowl, sort of pencil thickness, with a slot cut in the end. Pop it in a drill, a bit of 600 drit w+d paper, squirt of WD 40 and use that to polish the bore. Or wire wool... The sachet will be red rubber/brake grease, yes, smear it around the bore once the piston is fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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