Pete Lewis

Steve ,theres a whole range of supplies for bigger diameter studs, but if you want to keep your Nuts !! then the result is dependant on the thread size in your nuts ( dont let doug thread drift into this one ) do you know what nuts you have i really didnt want to say that Pete

they hide the drive well in thin finger long plier access on the small chassis cars. abandoned the yorkshire wet sheep on the friday and gave up came home a day early. there's more fish and chip shops than sheep well nearly the washer just sits in the drive to make a sort of simple spacer , any washer that fits inside the thing will space it be it copper, fibre or steel the 7/16" is the hole size . it doesnt need to be that accurate ... just find a washer in your hord of bits and bobs. if you undo the clamp plate and withdraw the whole assy you will get very oily Pete

if its a lucas dizzy get a red rotor from club shop or distributor doctor, delco rotors are less problems with crap suppliers its a classic, there's always another job to add to the endless to do list chasing your tail with a few enjoyments in between

from rimmers pics there is a adaptor nkc43 to convert the drive to the threaded end for angle drive 120694 which is clearly states you must have the washer fitted . if you have the aaptor the cable should screw on direct if thats a way to go , if you dont have the threaded end you could be without the adaptor and possibly a different to normal angle drive ??

you can test the dizzy vac capsule for leaks by short tube and suck like crazy you should see it move the base plate. if its holed you just suck for ever . the vac capsule only improved economy no effect on acceleration or power overall. unless the link to the base has broken and the base plate is floating without control. there are a lot of new condensers and rotors which fail the rotors short out the HT to the dizzy spindle and the condensers have 3 ft of foil inside instead of 20ft. failed condensers normally create backfires and whilst it will idle it wont rev without a hole lot of serious misfiring Pete

blocked slow running jet and condenser failed two simple ones to start with Pete

dont ask what it does to the damper springs and the disc floating hub ouch !! clutch failures.pdf Clutch System Failures (3).pdf

when they they are in you will wonder how the 3/8" managed if you have domed /capped nuts make sure the longer stud doesnt bottom out and leave the wheel loose !!!!!! cut them to suit. easy to do rears if the hubs off, from memory we fiddled them in the rears with the shoes off, some hole saw the back plate and fit them from the inside out turn the hub to align the hole and bingo. pull the studs up with a spacer and old wheel nut Pete

i used 5.5j miniltes on my Vit6 175/70 13 michelins ... but upgraded to 12mm or if prefered unf 7/16" studs , the 3/8" wimpy ones can get sheared , suffer agism and generally are pretty weedy the bigger studs fit direct into the hubs rears can be a fiddle, with hub 'on' fronts need to separate the disc/hub some need a small chamfer/file if the head fouls the hub register, the best bullet proof upgrade you can do. Pete

Dave is yours D or J type ? we have an area car with the cable direct fit on the OD and runs through a hole in the floor under the carpet up to the head with the std OD cable this is on a D type od. and the cable on this is a direct fit the angle drive will have failed because it does not have the 7/17" 538532 copper/fibre washer fitted to space the drive away from the gearbox many places like rimmers wont sell or warrant the drive if this simple washer is omitted. Pete

any spring ( B Q) thats similar will work, it so long as the piston end locates on the steel bit not the rubber the spring only keeps the bearing held towards the fingers , its not overly important Pete

http://www.chriswitor.com/products.php?cat=338 chris witor lists all the lengths available pete

There are some better makes of chain ,english or german seem favoured the tensioner groves is normal, any replacement will end up the same silliest job is getting the small slpit pin replaced and to fit a new chain you need a acurate way of determining crank and cam lobe tdc point a simple piston stop on the block , turn piston to it in both directions and with a simple protractor (Card disc ) mark the two points , halve this for exact tdc of the piston you really need a dial indicator to do similar on the cam, turn a lobe to a decided lift on the dti do this both sides of the lobe again simple card disc attatched mark the same rise and fall points mark halves between the marks that the tdc of the cam lobe dont turn anything ang assy the chain and sprocket, the sprocket has off set holes that give 1/4 tooth increments buy switching holes and turning it over this all sounds a pain but read the manuals and practice its the best way of getting the cam timing really spot on pete

i can only add if you have droop problems youre on the wrong forum again . the guy who invented Millboard should be sent on a long trip to timbuktu theres a joke around Pete

if the bushes are within spec i would leave alone.. new followers and follower grease to bed them in , cant advise on material or follower spec Pete

yes it collects vacuum from a small orifice just past the throttle plate this generates the vacuum to advance the base plate by the diaphragm capsule and advances the timing when at low throttle openings ie cruising, has nothing to do with manifold vacuum . in fact its about completely the opposite the vac unit gives approx 4mpg help to fuel consumption,and has no effect on accelerations. get a better quality reinforced hose to fit over both spouts and dump the elbow idea , pipe diameter is not critical Pete

Some of the online suposed cheaper have a clause about thier tyres being pre 2012 and not date stamped its lost in the small print policies . if you dont do many miles and and dont need premium tyre performance many of the budget tyres will do all you need certainly if they age before you wear them out aging makes the rubber? hard and it has no grip , can be so hard they wont wear out here lies the danger then the steel bands can corrode internally and you dont know 7 years is the recomended max age you should consider

Or to add to Darrens idea get a screw in hose fitting and use fuel hose all the way to the carbs and bin the pipe idea, pete

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/brake-pipe-flaring-kit-10-pc-piece-tool-sealey-ak506-set-copper-brass-aluminium Need a special tool to grip the tube and a screw in mandril and former to get the tube end to do a single flare for a fuel type fitting or a double flare for a high pressure brake pipe Prices vary but rough search on halfords

and check the rear cam bearing bore these can wear and you get everlasting tappet noise which isnt tappets the dizzy pedestal is sealed with a gasket , there are various thickness to adjust the drive end float Pete

yes change all the core plugs, always been fit them dry they need to grip, if you use a sealer dont use a slippy silcone something like wellseal would be better smells nice too. the dizzy base has an 0 ring rocker paint, club sell rattle can of orig gold , but any colour , body colour , black , whatever takes your liking if the stud holes are dented/sunken knock it back with a hammer and drift same with the sump , always clout the holes back to remove deformed flanges .

some repro diaphragms are very stiff thick nasty rubbery things , should be quite flimsy and very flexible if they are orig, and swell when taken out a wash with petrol will revert them to size as for the smiths valve you can dummy a get you home from a poly bag to trial it starting depending what the original bang was maybe a compression test is worth considering Pete

just stripped some longer standing150s and the needles were seriously jammed in the jets with nasty corrosion never seen that before in all the years of carbs carb cleaner quite useless , had to use a plumbers sulphuric acid to get the goo out of the jet holders and float zone so old gum does exist pete

its seems its no8x32 unf Pete

You should only use ptfe tape around the olive and its pipe, make sure the pipe end is kept clear . the threads on the nut have nothing to do with the sealing, it just clamps the olive onto the pipe, the seal is the olive against the pump body so does the pipe protrude a little beyond the olive ? Is the olive distorted by overtightening over the years suprised a 13/60has an olive, as Colin suggests a flare pipe is more normal pete