ahebron

While I generally agree with this philosophy it is only a round piece of steel with a counter bore on the back, a threaded hole right through and four smaller holes to bolt the fan to. Nothing an decent engineering shop couldn't knock up in an hour or so. Whether the fact it is casting versus machining makes a difference I don't know. Adrian

Good to see no one was tempted to mention the starter motor method of undoing the front pulley bolt. Dammit what have I just gone and done 🙄 Adrian

Hi Iain I turned down the mounting boss on my 6 by about 10mm to give more clearance between the radiator and fan. I took it off the back and then deepened the recess to fit on the crank. As In was keeping the fan albeit a plastic one In retapped the holes for the fan bolts. And I took a bit off the end of the bolt I also wedged the radiator to make it parallel to the front of the engine as the fan was uncomfortably close for my big hands to work around it. I think I posted about it while back. Adrian

Gearbox tunnel fitment makes lying on your back under the dash just that bit more difficult than with the hard metal gearbox digging in to your back. Adrian

A Vintage car owner fitted seatbelts to his car and took it in to get certified. They asked who fitted the seat belts as the car was to old to have had them new and he said he did They asked him for the engineers paperwork but as it was his handywork he had none so they told him the car could not be certified with the seat belts, The owner replied with ok I will remove them. To which the certifier told him no he could not as that would be modifying an existing vehicle and making it unsafe. Several thousand dollars later the owner having paid to get the car rengineered to fit seatbelts got his car certified with seatbelts. Do your research before starting the job, you are dealing with the safety of others right at the point that it is most needed. Check the government websites for vehicle modifications and maybe ask someone who is paid to know the answer. Adrian

Unfortunately it is becoming the norm at some of the WOF (MOT) chains here in NZ for them to fail taper bearing front hubs for having a small amount of play. Adrian

What about a shim behind the nut? Adrian

I have been talking with a work colleague who went to 3d do in California in February and he was amazed at what they are achieving. He was particularly taken with the product that Nasa use called PEEK. This is a commonly available product for 3d work but is expensive and needs high grade printers. It looks like the bees knees for manufacturing carparts but as with most technology we need to wait for the price to come down. Adrian

But as you well know JohnD you do not need a rivnut tool to fit a rivnut, but it does help especially inside a grease cap. Adrian

Out of curiosity is a TR6 back plate the same as a Vitesse/GT6? Adrian

Ha, I was so caught up with the wooden capping I never noticed the bumpers. The seller is a car museum that was given the car but it doesn't fit in with there plans

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/triumph/listing/2709661965?bof=yednih1n Did the Estates have wooden capping in the rear from factory? Adrian

Many will disagree with me but K & N filters and their ilk are one of my pet hates on vehicles. Especially in an engine bay like the Vitesse. Adrian

Adaptors should be the same spline for MGB and Triumph, a Rudge 42. Back spacing might be a problem though as the Triumph spec wheels have slightly more back spacing which means more wheel behind the hub. Thats enough of me sounding intelligent all the info is available here. http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentChapterView.asp?chapter=1 I had a set of wires to fit to one of my Vitesse but the condition of them didnt give me great confidence in them so I got rid of them. Adrian

Peter personally I like what you have done with the superlites but to me the Mk4 caps look wrong with the globe. Had the same problem with the superlites on my Dads Vitesse but found the caps would go on if the wheel faces faced the centre cap. Superlite NZ had no interest as they had the money from the wheels. Adrian

Hi PeteH i overcooked mine when I did it but because I was using hydraulics on each side I was able to push it back out. I did split the join forward of the rear deck under the side windows of my saloon though and I have to deal with the rear wings catching the boot lid at some stage. I might try using the hydraulic ram to push them apart a wee bit. Adrian

Not really fix the problem just put it on pause it till the now overworked shocks or there mounts fail. Adrian

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The info on the site states these are remanufactured which I assume is american for refurbished. Adrian

Hi Clive These are GT6 calipers, or at least thats what they claim! As I have a Mk2 Convertible in poor state in storage I can take the caliper mounts off and either use them or get a set of mounts made the same as I have a few local friendly engineers I can use. I did think of alternatives but thought best to stay Triumph as much as possible so in future confusion wont be to bad. I am surprised at the price difference between the imperial bolt version and the metric bolt. Over NZ$100 which seems crazy. Adrian

As I am fortunate to be back at work and every week earning a bit of overtime I decided to look into a set of Girling 16 calipers for my Vitesse 6. Triumph sized ones are not that common in NZ so I decided to look overseas. Rockauto in the USA had the best deal which keeps it under NZs customs duty figures but only for the metric set from a late GT6 which landed including tax will cost me NZ$287. An early imperial set will push it over the NZ$400 which is when customs add their fee. I will slowly buy the other bits I need to complete the job and then cap it off with a set of Mintex 1144 pads which I can source locally for a Ford form a similar price as from overseas. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=22449&cc=1293825&jsn=330&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h40yflR1RdAtsQCrjYt2wcIO5B5KUZIVKF0yQOl7CKdqenXNuSd50QguLrTZsZLs7eIvY4y3nijhs8Ivw4e2fEvahYD2RU76AfzBkm8C%2BtT41i2oYglZUpLGGSAYo5B93PAU3%2BFcw7Tx3AqW9HEVwG40fKfy4boN9D%2BPusNJEXzezM8s7lDmI%2FL97P65lfGhCZfb0HiVfBtzAmpASvX5b0cFFBZA4HBPJ7z9uQlGibmVqVVe0tVw5ovl9eJ5jo1PYKhvbRDEmqp1mrX7JKYa3Mina3gC3PXgTDF3PY%2Fw7cynyvMjBboqYMA8lQEa77CV7YU%3D Adrian

If it could read vertical G as the backend jacks up it would be useful😉 Adrian

Inhibitor switches can be taken apart and serviced. There are several designs some easier than others to dismantle but all seem to be soft aluminium housings that can be opened with a punch or small cold chisel. From my experience the seal around the plunger can leak allowing oil in when they are screwed into the gearbox. Adrian

🙈🙉🙊

KevinR why is the length of the torque wrench taken from middle of the handgrip. But I think I have just answered my own question with because it is where you push/pull on the torque wrench. Adrian